Fuel line nut or hex or star

1993 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3L Vortec auto 4 wheel drive

I have been racking my brain trying to get the right size hex or allen to get the nut of the fuel line nut kit. Everything I use isn't working. What is the right size to use for the hidden bolt behind the rear fuel lines that holds both in order to change the fuel line nut kit?

I spent 3 hours messing with it and no progress. Getting frustrated now. My inner line is leaking. Blazer runs very bad. Uses gas like no tomorrow and I need to fix this. I have read that others used regular fuel injection hose instead of buying the factory nut kit. Will this work also. Is it safe? I use this truck for plowing, and I am willing to try anything. Can I use super glue to fix the break or does it dissolve with gas? Any ideas out there are welcome. Gimme some ideas. I don't need to buy dealer parts, just want to fix the excessive gas runout in the plenim.

Thanks.

Best to use the premade pieces. Advance Auto has parts by BWD and Dorman. The BWD comes with the bracket and new bolt. NAPA carries Balkamp without the bracket and bolt, Echlin with (but Advance is cheaper) the bracket and bolt.

Which, by the way, is Torx, not allen or hex. I can't remember which Torx at the moment, though.

I am having the same problem, dont know what takes it off and both of my lines are leaking right where they come thru the intake, there isnt any holes rubbed in them, just where it connect to the 2 pieces where your fuel lines screw into - and this is just a thought, what if you used a really small hose clamp on the there? I called Autozone and they are 56.00 for the lines

The bolt may be torque drive.
Check your local parts place for some.

The bolt may be torque drive.
Check your local parts place for some.

I misstated up above. I was using a T27 torx or maybe a T25. It just didn't feel like it was coming out. It seemed to fit, but no progress. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by torque drive.

I misstated up above. I was using a T27 torx or maybe a T25. It just didn't feel like it was coming out. It seemed to fit, but no progress. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by torque drive.

torx = torque drive.

Is the bolt just tight or the socket slipping in the bolt.
Does the bolt also have a metric socket head on it?

torx = torque drive.

Is the bolt just tight or the socket slipping in the bolt.
Does the bolt also have a metric socket head on it?

Thought you meant something else by torque drive. I don't think it is slipping or that the bolt is tight. It feels like it just keeps turning with no progress. It is such a tight area though. The bolt head is round.

It may have striped threads.

See if you can get a pair of pliers on it and pull or screw driver under edge and push up a little on it and then see if it will screw on out.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

It may have striped threads.

See if you can get a pair of pliers on it and pull or screw driver under edge and push up a little on it and then see if it will screw on out.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Yes, the screwdriver under head is a good idea. I'll try that tonight.

Does the bolt/bracket have to go back on? In other words, will it leak if not put back on? Also, about patching the plastic fuel hose. I wondered if any adhesive would work, but I'm guessing most anything of that type is dissolved by the gas. For a temporary quick fix, I may slice some fuel line hose or something like that to get it covered on the line to stop the bleeding so I can just use it to plow the driveway and will redo the whole fuel line nut kit/spider, everything this Summer in warmer weather. Right now, I am going through so much gas and it's a struggle running it. Too much of this and the bearings are going to disappear. I don't want that. I've dropped the oil and filter twice in the last month or so.

Best to have the bolt in to hold everything in place.
If striped out heli coil it or tap to bigger size.
Replace and Fix the lines right and be done with it.
Anything else is only a band aid.

I had to use a bandaid because no money for the new parts at the moment. So a cover/hose over the pinhole and clamped seems to work for now to get me through a little while.

I started it and noticed it was running better, not 100%, but better than before. It was severely sluggish/choked before. Now it revs up and I can actually drive up and down the driveway. I ran it for about 15 minutes and gave the driveway a quick swipe with the plow.

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot. Startled, i shut it off and let it cool down.

Either there is unburned gas in the exhaust that is burning out now. Or something else.

Anything else is only a band aid.


You're right. I'm just wasting my time. I'll be getting the lines Fri and go from there. Thanks for the input.

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot.

Sounds like the cat was damaged by the raw fuel dumping through it (not unusual). I foresee a new cat in your future...

Sounds like the cat was damaged by the raw fuel dumping through it (not unusual). I foresee a new cat in your future...

Raw fuel, yes. Foresee a new cat, No. Cat is fine. It would be gutted if needed first. This is a plow truck, nothing special. And being a 93, it doesn't need to be hooked up for inspection.

I had to use a bandaid because no money for the new parts at the moment. So a cover/hose over the pinhole and clamped seems to work for now to get me through a little while.

I started it and noticed it was running better, not 100%, but better than before. It was severely sluggish/choked before. Now it revs up and I can actually drive up and down the driveway. I ran it for about 15 minutes and gave the driveway a quick swipe with the plow.

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot. Startled, i shut it off and let it cool down.

Either there is unburned gas in the exhaust that is burning out now. Or something else.

On cats getting red after you get fuel leak/running rich fixed if still doing it check the engine timing.

If timing is off it can cause red cats/exhaust.

Good luck

On cats getting red after you get fuel leak/running rich fixed if still doing it check the engine timing.

If timing is off it can cause red cats/exhaust.

Good luck

You are talking about, if the timing is off, raw fuel will go past the exhaust valve before being burned. I am familiar with this. I've never had a timing related issue with this vehicle before. And given the issue I have now with the plastic fuel line leak, a good guess would be the clamp I put on just allowed more fuel to run down the intake. Best bet, like you said, is to get the new line. That is the only way I can be sure of that part anyway. Then go from there. I'll post back.

MT,

I'm pulling my hair out right now. I tried and tried on the torx 27 to get the nut to come out, but it won't do anything, but turn. I even removed the distr cap out of the way, but it is being stubborn. I pried on the bracket with no luck. Both fuel lines are disconnected and I have the new lines ready to go in, but I can not seem to get that bracket off. I'm not sure what to do now.

I just did mine on Wensday, mine came out with no problem, seemed to take forever getting out though cause you cant really get alot of turn on the bolt each time, and the bolt is about 3/4 of an inch long. Do you have like a flimsy 1" paint scraper? Maybe try to slide the under the head of the bolt and pry out while turning. It is a #27 Torqe though because I had to get a new one when I lost mine so I bought one that was built into the socket(1/4" drive) But like MT said if its stripped- to tap it to a largers or heli-coil it- to do that I would think you would have to take the rest of the intake off- and if so then you might go ahead and pull it which would be easier to get the bolt out. I had read your post before I did mine and I was gonna write ya on here and tell you that if you would happen to need a bracket or the bolt that I have both from mine left over- the kit I bought came with a new bolt and bracket so I put my old ones in a boxand kept them in case someone would ever need them, if you would happen to need them just let me know and you can have them. Another thing you might try(if there is someone that can help you) have someone take a screwdriver and push out on one of the lines where the come thru the plemium- apply the pressure while you are turning the bolt and just kinda switch from one line to the other and keep putting pressure on them as you are turning it. But if its stripped then your still back to taking it off and retapping it- maybe even cut the old plastic lines off and use a phillips screwdriver on each side(stick the pointed part in where the gas line was and have someone apply pressure to both sides at the time

Thanks for the offer. The new lines I got came with the bracket and bolt also. $60 worth. If I can get an air tool on it, I might be able to pry and get it out. But there's not much room there. Did your lines go in through the back easily enough? It just seems like there isn't much room to get the new ones in and that you might have to bend them a little in order to make the turns.

I have more ideas to get that little sucker out. Last night I was tired, fingers very cold(working outside) and out of steam. New day, new outlook!

I did have to bend mine a little, not much though, I kinda bent, twisted and just kinda worked them in there, I also put a little bit of oil on the O-rings to help them slide in a little easier- I tried it without oil and I was wearing myself out! So you might wanna do that too

I did have to bend mine a little, not much though, I kinda bent, twisted and just kinda worked them in there, I also put a little bit of oil on the O-rings to help them slide in a little easier- I tried it without oil and I was wearing myself out! So you might wanna do that too

I'm sure the rest will go easy after getting the bolt out. I've read other guys using vaseline on the orings. I plan to use that. Givin it another whirl tonight.

wish ya luck, hope you get it out and get the new ones in

After several failed attempts, I got a little mirror to see things. It appears the torx head is stripped. How? I don't know, don't think I did it, because I had the right torx. But, the case remains the same. I can't seem to get anything to move the bolt. If I could just crack it, I'd be ok. I have been using torx, allen, screwdriver etc to get this thing to move. I realized that it wasn't moving when I finally got the mirror out to have a look. It just keeps slipping with everything I use. Why the hell they didn't use a regular bolt on this just baffles me. A tight area, go figure. Stupid engineers. UGH!. Got to try some more.

well i dont have many suggestions for that other than pull the lower intake since there is no room to get in the area with any thing. That does suck though. If it was me- I would take the lower intake off and get it out that way, then again sometimes I short tempered! lol BUt that would be the only suggestion I have as of right now but I'll keep trying to think of something and if I do I'll post it for ya!

well i dont have many suggestions for that other than pull the lower intake since there is no room to get in the area with any thing. That does suck though. If it was me- I would take the lower intake off and get it out that way, then again sometimes I short tempered! lol BUt that would be the only suggestion I have as of right now but I'll keep trying to think of something and if I do I'll post it for ya!

I appreciate that Shane. What are we talking to take the lower intake off?

I tried everything tonight and again, no luck. If I have to take the lower intake off, what needs to come off. Give me step by step if you can. This F'n job will not defeat me. I will fix it one way or the other.

well it looked like to me on the lower intake- there are the big bolts on the inside of the intake and that is all thats holdint it on there. Looked like 9/16 I think

I appreciate that Shane. What are we talking to take the lower intake off?

I tried everything tonight and again, no luck. If I have to take the lower intake off, what needs to come off. Give me step by step if you can. This F'n job will not defeat me. I will fix it one way or the other.

On the lower intake go to S-10 how to section.

Good Luck

On the lower intake go to S-10 how to section.

Good Luck

Thanks. I'm still going to try on that bolt, because I don't want to make a mountain out of a molehill. But in the end, if need be, I'll remove the lower intake.

UPDATE

I tried in vane, to get that bolt out. Nothing worked. I could pull the lower intake, but not right now. There's no time to go deeper because I need the plow. I heard another guy put fuel line on. So, I cut off the inner leaky fuel line and put on fuel injection hose with fuel injection clamps. One way or another, I had to fix the line. It actually worked quite well and I dare say, it is a better fix than the original nut kit because the hose won't leak.

After starting it up, the fix was verified. It ran tons better. And gained back it's lost power. After going down the driveway and up to the corner and back, it ran well, until it died at the bottom of my driveway. Not to worry though. It was out of gas.

Thanks for the ideas all. Problem solved.