Just a random Question???

Whats the avaerage mpg on a talon with the 420a in it non turbo???

22 in town. 28ish highway probably.

ok cool i was just wondering...Think i might be getting it this weekend..

Also don't forget that this number will change depending on many factors, everything from tire pressure, fuel filter, air filter, wheel alignment and so on.

I was just curious because i may be getting it towmorrow or sat....

Well guys looks like ill have it friday....Ill make sure t put some pics up

Well guys looks like ill have it friday....Ill make sure t put some pics up

For sure! Can't wait to see.

how hard is it to replace the timing belt on this car cause thats the first thing ima do to it???

Its not to hard, as long as you have done work on cars before you should be fine. Just follow the haynes manual and it tell you everything to do.

Fuel mileage depends more on how you drive it than anything. Watch the episode of top gear where they race an M3 vs prius and see who get better gas mileage. search Top gear M3 vs prius. I remember I got 13mpg in my eclipse the first week i got it, now i get about 20 around town.

Where cna i get a haynes manual for this car...I have worked on cars for a long time just got done with automotive tech school so i should be able to do it.

Advance auto or any parts store should have them

ok will do....also what all parts do i need to buy while im doing the timing belt???

Most people will recommend doing everything while in there...
-Timing Belt
-Both tensionors
-Hydrolic tensionor
-Oil Pump
-Water Pump


Personally I would pull the head and replace the headgasket depending on the amount of miles

I want to do all that stuff but got to save some money up to do it. Give me a price estimate cause my computer is acting crazy and only staying on this site.

I think pulling the head and changing the head gasket is a little overkill. Reason being, most engines won't ever need a headgasket in their life span.

I think pulling the head and changing the head gasket is a little overkill. Reason being, most engines won't ever need a headgasket in their life span.
To me though it's a "piece of mind" deal. Pulling the head lets you see the inside and make sure everything is good in there. Plus, it wasn't stated if it's leaking oil or anything from it, so who knows.


As for changing everything out, most people get ALL the parts through the dealer which is recommended. I went through Part Dinosaur & ebay and got pretty much everything I needed for I believe about $300 or so. Going through the dealer you're looking at over $500. Just the stock OEM belt is ~$120 from them. Just don't go cheap on the actual belt. You don't want that ripping.

As for doing the actual job, buy a manual and read the part about doing the timing belt over and over again before actually digging into it. It's not hard, but depending on how much experience you have, it may not be that easy. The 2 "main" 420a people here (me and Silvr) have done this numerous times and can help you through if you need be. Also, there's pretty extensive walk throughs online with good pictures of the entire job and how to do it right.

i priced all the parts besides the headgasket and it came out to e around 300

Well guys today is the big day.....Get my talon!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nice, post some pics

Well guys looks like it will be towmorrow ahhhh.....What do yall think about this turbo klit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96-97-98-99-TALON-420A-2-0L-T3-T4-TURBO-KIT-350HP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efbb23ff1QQitemZ 270510735345QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories

Do not buy an ebay turbo kit. Just about everything in them is crap.
-Turbo is "ebay brand" that are known for breaking apart into pieces while boosting and can destroy your motor
-The wastegates are generally ass-quality pieces as well as the blow off valves. They're known for leaking and not holding any pressure. Those are 2 parts that you don't want to fail
-And I personally refuse to use any non-name brand fitting these days, such as in the oil feed/return lines. Too many problems with ebay-brand ones... plus, nothing about them is normal. I've replaced all of mine with good fittings
-The AFR in the picture are known for being sub-par as well
-That boost controller is crap as well


You never know, you may get a 'good' bunch of parts and have it all work out, but I wouldn't risk it. You can build a turbo kit for near the same price. My first setup cost about $1200 total, and this was using high quality parts where they needed to be used, and cheap when I could. Check out my turbo project thread in the Members Project (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1474) section. The only things in that kit that I would personally use are the FMIC, piping, couplers/clamps and the manifold. Those you can get for like $250.

When you buy the car, do regular maintenance. Fix anything that is wrong with it now BEFORE you start modding.

^+1.

Let's see some pics

Well guys just got home and i got my TALON.....Had to drive it about 60 miles to get home so it ran pretty good...only bad thing is it skippes at idle but when its reved up it goes away...Gonna put some plugs and wires on it and change the oil soon as possible then going to do the timing belt and stuff...Kinda dark outside so i cant take any pics but i must say IM VERY HAPPY RIGHT NOW....

Put factory style plugs back in it. Im not sure what goes in a 420a, one of these guys could tell you.

Congrats on the purchase!
Any more details on the skip? Does the rpm drop or just feel like a mis-fire? Is it consistent or totally random? Definitely change the plugs first and see how that goes. Depending on mileage I would consider changing the fuel filter too if it wasn't done. Do you have a list from the previous owner of current repairs?

Go with NGK Platniums for non-turbo. Had great luck with those as n/t. They're a little more expensive than stocks, but run great. I forget the gap, but I believe they should be gapped accordingly out of the box (been awhile since I bought them). I would also buy (or rent) a compression tester at Autozone and do a compression test. This will tell you want kind of shape the motor is in internally. They're only ~$20, and if you start getting serious about this car, you'll use it often ;)

Can't wait to see some pics. How many miles are on her?

Oh, lastly, there was a lifetime recall done on the lower control arms on these cars. I would call the local Jeep/Chrysler/Mitshu dealership and give them the VIN number. If it wasn't done, take it in and get them replaced. If it was, you can still take it in and have them reseal the joints. It's law that they have to honor the recall throughout the lifetime of the car. Save you ~$300+ worth of parts/labor :)

I have a compression tester in my tool box at work that i can use and its got 200k miles on it so im going to service it as soon as possible and ima check on that recall and trying to get some pics ass soon as i can but right now we are under a tornadow warning

Also guys something els i noticed. The SRS light and AniLock light on my dash is on. Can someone tell me why??

I don't have anitlocks on my car. Check the wires going to each that brake to see if they're cut or split anywhere. Lots of cars with Anitlock are good for breaking the sensors/wires on the brake itself.

ok ill check that towmorrow but wha about the SRS light?

Yea check for speed sensors on the wheels, its probably one of those. For the SRS light the control module should be under the console, you can just lift the cup holder tray out and you should be able to see it, check and make sure that its plugged up first off and no wire are damaged going to it. Remember that with the SRS light on the air bags WILL NOT deploy. Try pulling the battery cables off for 30 min or so to reset the system.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/197283-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

Ok will do and im going to get my compression tester from work and try and get a compression test done some tim this week.

well guys its leakin oil and puffin out blue smoke so i know its buring oil. Also its idling funny like when i crank it up its revs up to about 4500 rpm dont know what that would be????

Also put new plugs in it lastnight and it was idleing at about 850 and the skpping still didnt go away and then this morning it started idleing at about 4500rpm.

Check the TPS and the IAC on the throttle body. The IAC (idle air control) adjusts how much air comes in at idle based on all the conditions. The TPS (throttle position sensor) see's where the throttle is at and adds fuel when throttle gets opened up. There's ways to check both sensors.

I would personally pull off the throttle body (2 13mm bolts) and clean it with TB cleaner and check the sensors while it's off. The butterfly plate will stick if it's dirty and may be allowing extra air at startup to come in.

ok wil do now.

OK i took it off and it was pretty didrty with a bunch of gunk so im putting it back together and i was wondering if the TP sensor has to be twisted back into place???

Cleand it out and cleaned the iac and put it all back together and it still doing the same thing.

i Think the MAP sensor is bad

The only thing that makes a motor rev up is air. So somehow more air is getting into the motor than it should be. This could either be caused by a vac leak or the IAC opening up for some reason. If the map is bad you should have a CEL. Does the car ever idle down or does it stay at 4500 all the time now?

just stays at 4500 and after i cleaned the gunk off the iac the rpms jumped from 1500 to 2500 for about 5 mins the back to 4500 and thats what its doing everytime i crank it now.

Try unpluging the IAC. If the MAP is bad and the ECU is opening the IAC for some reason when you unplug it, it should at least make the idle stable

I tried it. Unpluged the iac and tried it and it did the same thing then tried the TP sensor and it did the same thing then unpluged both at same time and tried to crank it and it still did the sae thing. Then tried it with the MAP sensor and it wouldnt crank with or without the TP and IAC plugged or unplugged.

Well it needs the TPS and map to run. The IAC just adjust the idle so it doesn't need that. Another thing you can try is to put your hand over the TB and see if the car tries to stall. If there are not leaks in your manifold/vac lines when you cover the TB the car should starve for air. If it doesn't then you have a leak.

So i put my hand over the TB and it there are no leaks the car should stall?

So i put my hand over the TB and it there are no leaks the car should stall?

Correct. Air should not be entering from anywhere else beside the TB, so if you put your hand over it, you're blocking all air coming in and should stall out the car. If it doesn't, then as Silvr said, you have a leak in in the IM or a vacuum line.

OK i was just making sure. Wont be able to work on it again untill saturday and thats also when i going to do my compression test. Whats the compression supose to be around???

I forget the service limits, but I want to say 170-210?

OK will check on sat along with that vaccum leak...

Got some good news first of all i got my door handles in the mail today so i can put both of them on and also i just got off work and as soon as i got home i cranked the talon up and it only reved up to 3500 so i put my hand over the TB and it went down to about 850rpm but it didnt stall out so i guess i got a vaccum leak.

Sounds like a good place to start, another trick I use to try and find vac leaks is cover up the TB again and use pliers to pinch each hose and if the idle drops then you have found the leak.

Service limit is around 120psi if I remember correctly. One thing that your looking for is that all of the cylinders are the small. They should be within 10% of each other. Good luck man

OK cool. Im going to do a compression test and try and find that vaccum leak, change the oil, and both drive belts.

OK well i got the passenger side door handle on and when i lift the handle to open it it dosent do anything so i looked at it from the inside and noticed the pin that holds the handle rod to the door poper is loose? How in the world do i fix that? and its like that on the driver side.

Im not real sure what your talking about. Is the rod installed like the one shown in the picture? You have the platic wrapped around the back of the rod and cliped it so it doesn't slide out?
http://www.rcaz.com/rcaz/sub%20indexes/eclipse_door_handle_removal/door_handle_removal-2.jpg

NO its not the lock part thats messed up its the acual rod coming from the handle. When i pull the handle up the rod goes down but not far enough.

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When i pull the handle up and the rod pushes down it dosent unlach or pop the door open.

I dont think its a vaccum leak anymore cause i check all the vaccum lines and its still doing it. I cranked it up about 20mins ago and it was idling at about 850 then jumped to 3k but it took it like 3 or 4 mins before it did it. Then it idled back down on its on and stayed about 2 mins at 850ish then died???

Disregard the arrows on that pic. I just found it online, I was talking about where the rod connects to the handle. I have replaced my handles several times and never had a problem with the doors not opening.

Did the car start back up? do you have a check engine light (CEL)?

I dont know whats the deal on the handles but the idling is my biggest problem. Its still acting up and no i dont have a check engine light on or CEL only thing on is that SRS light.

But i will throw this in....when i had my hand over the TB and it idled down to about 850 like normal then i unpluged the MAP sensor it stalled out.

Ok so i drove the car to pic my sister up and it was acting pretty crazy. It still is ileling at about 4k now and when i let the clutch out it dies. I know how to drive a stick so it didnt stall but if you ease off the peadle the car should try and move but it didnt it just stallled out pretty crazy. Also when im in second gear i can only get the rpms to about 2500 then its like its tacked out can cant go any higher but thats only in second gear???