transmission not holding

I have a 91 corolla with a 5 speed. Can someone tell me why or what causes the transmission to fail to hold the car in place on a hill with it in gear? I have never had this trouble before.

Low compression? With the trans in first/reverse the only thing keeping it from moving is the compression. You should use your parking brake and not rely on just the engine ;)

Given the time of year..... is one wheel on snow or ice?
Unlike a parking brake, the transmission just stops the differential gear from moving., but the wheels can still move.

If just one front wheel is on a slippery surface, the car can still slide, because the wheel with traction will start to roll forward down the slope, while the wheel on ice will spin in the opposite direction.

Sadly the parking brake hasn't worked in years. I've always left it in gear and now the transmission is not holding as strong.

Do yourself a favor. Put a ratchet on the crank pulley and turn it over by hand. You'll notice that its really easy to turn for part of the time and nearly impossible to turn other times. The tough times are during a compression stroke.

Parking a manual vehicle without an effective parking brake means its being held in place only by the engine. The weight of the vehicle on the engine is just like the wrench on the engine - eventually the compression leaks down and allows the engine to spin some... which lets the car move.

Sounds like you should invest in a nice brick :)

Instead of a brick, prehaps I should try to get the e brake to work. The light comes on but the brake handle comes all the way up until it can't come up any further. All I need to do is tighten the star adjuster right? Or not?

Instead of a brick, prehaps I should try to get the e brake to work. The light comes on but the brake handle comes all the way up until it can't come up any further. All I need to do is tighten the star adjuster right? Or not?
Typically, parking brakes that are never used have seized cables. It's best to get underneath the car while someone else operates the lever, and see where the slack in the brake is.

If you are very lucky, you may just have to turn the adjuster. But you may find cables are seized or broken, requiring replacement.

Do you have drum brakes at the rear? You may have to pop the drums off and take a look there, too. for damaged or broken parts.

If or when you do get the parking brake working, make it a habit to use it every time you park, to keep the cables free and working.

Typically, parking brakes that are never used have seized cables. It's best to get underneath the car while someone else operates the lever, and see where the slack in the brake is.

If you are very lucky, you may just have to turn the adjuster. But you may find cables are seized or broken, requiring replacement.

Do you have drum brakes at the rear? You may have to pop the drums off and take a look there, too. for damaged or broken parts.

If or when you do get the parking brake working, make it a habit to use it every time you park, to keep the cables free and working.


They are drum brakes. I've changed the brakes on the back before and never saw any damage or anything that stood out. How hard is it to just replace the entire cable? I'd kind of rather have a brand new cable, plus I haven't replaced a e brake cable before, sounds fun.

A weak pressure plate in the clutch could be the cause also. Does the clutch slip while driving?

A weak pressure plate in the clutch could be the cause also. Does the clutch slip while driving?

Nope clutch is good. For now anyways. Ive learn that with Toyota's if you don't replace the part with a Toyota made part it doesn't last at all. I've been through three clutches in the last few years. The last one literally shattered and was in pieces when I took the transmission off. I have no idea if the autozone clutch just isn't that durable or what. Seriously, how does a clutch shatter? ...and how does one replace an e-brake cable?

If the drums are old enough, you should also replace all the brake hardware (springs, brackets, hold-down springs, adjustment screws, etc.) so that you can replace those that have worn out, rusted, or gone soft. Kits for both drums are usually $15 or so. If the shoes have only been dragging, then they've probably got a glaze on them that needs to be buffed off along with the drum surface. Finally, if the parking brake cable is frozen from rust, you might be able to find a used replacement. You'll have to consult a repair manual for specific instructions.

As for the clutch/engine not holding, you can try one of two things to pinpoint the problem. If the engine/tranny holds the car better in a higher gear, then the problem is due to decreased friction/compression in the engine from age. If it is the same, then it is related to the clutch. Wonder if they have been replacing the flexplate along with the clutch or just let it wear further. You can have a near new clutch but mated to an old out-of-spec flexplate won't hold as well. Would be interesting to see the exploded clutch...I love mysteries. Hope this helps!

Some cars are harder than others. Do you have a handle or a pedal? Make sure if you do replace it, the part that splits the cables off left/right has to have even tension for it to work right.

If the drums are old enough, you should also replace all the brake hardware (springs, brackets, hold-down springs, adjustment screws, etc.) so that you can replace those that have worn out, rusted, or gone soft. Kits for both drums are usually $15 or so. If the shoes have only been dragging, then they've probably got a glaze on them that needs to be buffed off along with the drum surface. Finally, if the parking brake cable is frozen from rust, you might be able to find a used replacement. You'll have to consult a repair manual for specific instructions.

As for the clutch/engine not holding, you can try one of two things to pinpoint the problem. If the engine/tranny holds the car better in a higher gear, then the problem is due to decreased friction/compression in the engine from age. If it is the same, then it is related to the clutch. Wonder if they have been replacing the flexplate along with the clutch or just let it wear further. You can have a near new clutch but mated to an old out-of-spec flexplate won't hold as well. Would be interesting to see the exploded clutch...I love mysteries. Hope this helps!



I should have taken a picture. I the engine tilted and holding by the passenger side mount so it would swivel and angled it down and took the transmission bolts off and slowly pulled downward and before I had it off, I'm seeing metal pieces falling out. When I got it off, half the clutch fell to the ground, part was resting in the transmission. Only part still attached to the engine were some good sized chunks that were closed to where it is bolted on. I was driving down the highway and the car died. I tried to start it and it was slipping bad but still trying to move foreward. I didn't even have to push the clutch in to start it. In crawled foreward a few inches and died again. I had it towed home only to discover the clutch was literally "shattered". This was two years ago but its still a mystery.

Actually since this is a transmission thread I'm going to ask another question. I was reading in my manuel on the car about taking the transmission off and it said not to depress the clutch once the transmission was out...why?

If it has a hydraulic slave cylinder, it can damage/blow the piston out of the slave cylinder. Or if it has one that is on the input shaft and is detached when you remove the trans, you can drain the clutch master cylinder and possibly the brake reservoir too depending on how it is setup. If it is a cable clutch, no hydraulics, then you shouldn't have a problem.

Pressure plate, hmm, who knew ;)

Well, I know it has a resevoir for the clutch. Uses the same dot 3 brake fluid as the brake system uses. Does that make it hydalic? Dumb question I suppose but got to learn somehow.

Yes, if something is moved by fluid pressure, it's hydraulic. Service brakes, (not park brake), automatic transmission, and power steering.