Reduced Engine power

Need suggestions 2003 yukon 5.3

initially these codes came up
po101
po171
po220
po300

Checked throttle body harness...ok
Cleaned throttle body
ran fuel cleaner through
changed o2 sensors
changed fuel filter
changed air filter
Checked ground wires

Reduce Engine Power light still comes on and goes to limp mode
Also note RPM's bouces 500 to 1000 at idle
only codes now are
po171
po174

Suggestions?

Good job!
You probably weeded out a few problems with filters + cleaning.
1) Check the plastic, seals, and rubber on your PCV system, any unmetered air leaks will cause lean codes.
2) Don't forget to clean your MAF/IACT sensors.

Good job!
You probably weeded out a few problems with filters + cleaning.
1) Check the plastic, seals, and rubber on your PCV system, any unmetered air leaks will cause lean codes.
2) Don't forget to clean your MAF/IACT sensors.


Unmetered air leaks? How do you determine this....All my work has been researched on this board...do I need to take it in to a shop? apprx. cost

Also would a faulty plug cause these codes?

PCV system? location?

A smoke test is usually done at a shop, they blow smoke through the Air box, duct work, intake, EGR, and PCV systems to find air leaks.

Any unmeterd air leaks will confuse your ECU/PCU, the Air/fuel mix will be calculated wrong, thus lean codes will be thrown.


A backyard Tech, or mechanic will use brake cleaner, or starting fluid, while the engine is running. The rise in RPM's tells you that there's an air leak.
The EGR + PCV systems are the most probable cause, because of rubber, plastic, and seals leaking air.

The Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) consist of a PCV valve, and tubing going from the valve cover to the air duct work on throttle body.

COST ?
I heard of a dude being charged $3.5k for a problem that wasn't fixed, it was a bad fuel filter.

A smoke test is usually done at a shop, they blow smoke through the Air box, duct work, intake, EGR, and PCV systems to find air leaks.

Any unmeterd air leaks will confuse your ECU/PCU, the Air/fuel mix will be calculated wrong, thus lean codes will be thrown.


A backyard Tech, or mechanic will use brake cleaner, or starting fluid, while the engine is running. The rise in RPM's tells you that there's an air leak.
The EGR + PCV systems are the most probable cause, because of rubber, plastic, and seals leaking air.

The Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) consist of a PCV valve, and tubing going from the valve cover to the air duct work on throttle body.

COST ?
I heard of a dude being charged $3.5k for a problem that wasn't fixed, it was a bad fuel filter.

Thanks for the tip....pcv valve extemely dirty..changed out..don't know if this will help

also sprayed Carb cleaner around intake, no increase in RPM...any suggestions on other places to spray? Thanks

After cleaning PCV garment, valve, and tubing, use the spray to check for unmetered air leaks on the whole PCV system going to your Air duct work .. just like your intake!

Any rise in RPM's means there' a leak, use intake sealent for air leaks.

Also check for unmetered air leaks from Air box, duck work to your throttle body. All clips, and clamps should be tight.

All air is metered by the MAF sensor, and any leaks could cause your lean codes.

Reset and clear code, so the computer forgets.

Did you clean the MAF/IACT sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner?

After cleaning PCV garment, valve, and tubing, use the spray to check for unmetered air leaks on the whole PCV system going to your Air duct work .. just like your intake!

Any rise in RPM's means there' a leak, use intake sealent for air leaks.

Also check for unmetered air leaks from Air box, duck work to your throttle body. All clips, and clamps should be tight.

All air is metered by the MAF sensor, and any leaks could cause your lean codes.

Reset and clear code, so the computer forgets.

Did you clean the MAF/IACT sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner?

Could these codes (too lean) remaining, cause the truck to go into Limp mode?

for example..a intake leak....would that set off the reduced engine power?

I would focus working on the codes 1st, the reduced power mode is to protect you + truck.

The computer detected a problem, and put the engine into a reduced power mode.
A drive-by-wire system with a bad signal could cause a reduced power mode. The electronic signal from the gas pedal to the electronic throttle body was lost.

After checking for unmeterd air leaks on your Intake, Pcv, and Egr systems, need to clean
MAF/IACT sensors, and reset codes.

If this doesn't fix the problem:
1) Get a professional smoke test done, for unmetered air leaks.
2) New MAF/IACT sensor
3) New Upstream H02 sensors.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfiQ7qWiG-M (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfiQ7qWiG-M)

or

Do a Google ''Youtube DIY Auto Scotty cigar'

I would focus working on the codes 1st, the reduced power mode is to protect you + truck.

The computer detected a problem, and put the engine into a reduced power mode.
A drive-by-wire system with a bad signal could cause a reduced power mode. The electronic signal from the gas pedal to the electronic throttle body was lost.

After checking for unmeterd air leaks on your Intake, Pcv, and Egr systems, need to clean
MAF/IACT sensors, and reset codes.

If this doesn't fix the problem:
1) Get a professional smoke test done, for unmetered air leaks.
2) New MAF/IACT sensor
3) New Upstream H02 sensors.

Couldn't get much done today, too freaking cold in KC..lol

Cleaned maf..look ok

Did carb cleaner test along intake...half way down(leftside driverside)heard a lite whistle sound but the rpm went down..engine stumbled a little..Does that sound like a gasket problem?

Bingo! It sounds like you found the unmetered air leak.
I wonder, can you fix this problem for the short with a bead of intake sealent or epoxy putty?
Reset and clear code.

Do a Google on ''Yukon Intake leak'' 55k hits
It looks like, theres a new and improved Intake gasket for $90.
Caution - If you wait too long, the lean cond could cause the Intake to warp..

how difficult is it to replace intake gasket?...glanced at it and it looks a little complicated around the fuel rails.

Any tips would be appreciated

I would start with getting two appraisals, and make sure it's a bad Intake gasket.

The fuel rail stays with the intake, the fuel lines are disconnected.

http://www.youtube.com Search ''how to replace a intake manifold''

I would start with getting two appraisals, and make sure it's a bad Intake gasket.

The fuel rail stays with the intake, the fuel lines are disconnected.

http://www.youtube.com Search ''how to replace a intake manifold''

Lack of confidence....having the shop do it....I hope this fixes everything...
I'll update once the job is completed.

Do a google ''Youtube Auto smoke test'' Intake, vacuum leak video's

I glad you decide to have someone do it, I would still get two appraisals for an Intake gasket replacement.

You probably saved $1k by doing the troubleshooting yourself, alot of shops like to troubleshoot at the customers expense.

Do a google ''Youtube Auto smoke test'' Intake, vacuum leak video's

I glad you decide to have someone do it, I would still get two appraisals for an Intake gasket replacement.

You probably saved $1k by doing the troubleshooting yourself, alot of shops like to troubleshoot at the customers expense.

Ok intake gasket replace...all codes clear...heading home engine light comes on....P1516....??? this was never on my original codes before I started this whole process...not what? Any Suggestions

WOW! That was a guick Intake gasket replacement.

How doe's your truck feel, as in horse power?
Did you use a dealer, backyard, or a local service shop?

I don't want to see any of the older codes, the P1516 is the Throttle Actuator Control (TAC), it probably needs calibrated.

WOW! That was a guick Intake gasket replacement.

How doe's your truck feel, as in horse power?
Did you use a dealer, backyard, or a local service shop?

I don't want to see any of the older codes, the P1516 is the Throttle Actuator Control (TAC), it probably needs calibrated.

Ok, is that something a dealership needs to do..ball park on cost...running low..lol

I have heard it's a plug + play 5min job!
They need to check the throttle plate for emission gunk, don't force the throttle plate open, it could loose calibration. The throttle plate is open by pushing the gas pedal only, during the cleaning process.

A lost throttle plate control, could cause a failsafe mode!

Visual inpect the wires going to the throttle plate control on your throttle body to your
accelerator pedal.

Opps!
Who + how was the throttle body cleaned?

Checked throttle body harness...ok
Cleaned throttle body
ran fuel cleaner through
changed o2 sensors
changed fuel filter
changed air filter
Checked ground wires

Reduce Engine Power light still comes on and goes to limp mode
Also note RPM's bouces 500 to 1000 at idle
only codes now are
P1516

Suggestions?

Failsafe mode = Reduced engine power for a drive-by-wire system!

I had rain water from the windshield rolling onto the electrical wires going to the electronic throttle body, causing a Failsafe mode on my Jaguar.

See http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=893556

Failsafe mode = Reduced engine power for a drive-by-wire system!

I had rain water from the windshield rolling onto the electrical wires going to the electronic throttle body, causing a Failsafe mode on my Jaguar.

See http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=893556


Replaced TAC...running like a top...thus far ...thank you for all your help! I think you kept me from jumping off the ledge.

Replaced TAC...running like a top...thus far ...thank you for all your help! I think you kept me from jumping off the ledge.

Back on Ledge again!...Car went back to reduced engine mode...> code 1516 is all that is showing...very frustrated.
recap

Fuel filter changed
intake gasket changed (needed it)
Tac Sendor changed
PCV changed
Mass Air flow working ok
Battery Changed
TB cleaned
Harness wires ok
Grounds ok

HELP!

Focus on the Drive-by-wire system only.

Do you still have the orginal TAC, or did they keep it?
Was it raining, or did you wash your truck?

Notes:
The engine is running good, but the electronic signal was lost from the gas pedal to the electronic throttle body.
I heard the breaks occurs 1-4 inches from the throttle body.

1) Reset;Clear code
2) Do a visual inspection, wiggle, tug on the wires going from the TAC to the throttle body.
3) Clean electrical connectors with CRC electrical cleaner.

The wire insulation could look good, but the little copper wire inside could be broken, and create a dead signal.


Suspect:
Broken wire
TAC
APPS
Throttle body

Caution - A shop loves to troubleshoot at the customers expense!
They would charge for a new TAC, APPS, Throttle body, than blame it on the computer!

I had a P1516 code and Reduced Engine Power on my Yukon XL 5.3L 2003... Cleaning the TB didn't help. It would go into limp mode and after sitting for a few hours would recover. I replaced the TB three weeks ago with a new one and everything seems fine so far. The electronics in the TB has to produce a certain amount of wattage to the computer (TCM). If it doesn't fall into a specific range, it will produce the limp mode..

Bigtex93 -Truck is fixed.

How is the weather condition?
Rain, snow, ice, or a car wash!

Do you think water could play a factor?
By setting for a few hours it could dry