Removing Truck Bed

How hard is it to remove a truck bed on a 98 c3500 4-dr Silverado? I am supposed to help a friend change the fuel pump. Does the bed need to be fully removed or will it slide back enough to complete the operation?

Why not drop the tank? Removing a bed is a PITA. It's heavy and often the bolts are rusty and break off.

Why not drop the tank? Removing a bed is a PITA. It's heavy and often the bolts are rusty and break off.

I hear ya! But really changing the in-tank fuel pump is a PITA. I have dropped a few tanks while changing pumps in M-bodies but just wanted an opinion or two when it comes to pickups. I don't doubt what you are telling me, just trying to get a little insight.

It's not that bad. A couple guys can move it after the bolts are out. Spray the bolts with PB Blaster. Be prepared for rust and dirt falling down (wear glasses)
You can slide it back further/easier if you take the back tires off, but that might be a pain if you have duals. Other wise lift and set back onto some sawhorses.

It's not that bad. A couple guys can move it after the bolts are out. Spray the bolts with PB Blaster. Be prepared for rust and dirt falling down (wear glasses)
You can slide it back further/easier if you take the back tires off, but that might be a pain if you have duals. Other wise lift and set back onto some sawhorses.

You were right -- wasn't really that bad--did not take off tires because if you have 4 guys it really not that heavy. Only had to move it back about 3 feet (on top of the tires and was pretty stable) Ok--this is a no brainer--pull the bed.

Thank you for the update. Now, maybe GM can do what the Germans have been doing for decades - include little trap doors in floors/beds to allow for fuel sender access.

Thank you for the update. Now, maybe GM can do what the Germans have been doing for decades - include little trap doors in floors/beds to allow for fuel sender access.

I know of dealership tech's that do the cut hole mod...saves alot of time..since the newer vehicles have no external fuel filter with these vehicles it would be a good move if properly done..

Sorry to bring back an old thread from the dead here gentlemen, hopefully I wont get banned.

So, my truck seemed to have slight pre-ignition at moderate throttle under load. Pulled some random plugs on both banks. There were all new NGK copper cores about 2 months ago, and all looked like they were running lean.

Same time the new plugs were installed I also put in a new fuel pressure regulator because of a missfire/hard start issue. That problem is solved, but now this one. So i figured that my new upper intake gaskets (fel-pro) had been leaking vacuum or the gasket for the electrical connector rolled over. So I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with the truck idling. No luck, no vacuum leaks anywhere.

Checked fuel pressure, key on, pump primes, by the time I get from the cab to under the hood to check the guage, it is at 0. Yet the truck starts and runs fine, only seems to slightly ping under load at medium throttle.

I'm thinking my fuel pump check valve is shot so I am thinging I will probably have to replace the pump before it leaves me stranded. Does that sound about right? Or is there any way to test and make absolute sure?

The pump is cheap enough 80 bucks for a delco one on rockauto.com. Just getting it out is going to be a PITA. Would you guys recommend driving the truck untill the tank is almost empty and dropping the tank, or should I do what is recommended above and remove the bed?

Thanks for the info!!!!

~Tim

I'm surprised you are asking this question since you are a regular poster ..

the fuel pump must have the fuel test proceedure done..this with your limited testing appears to be the fuel pump check valve..but what is the pressure with the key on engine off and the pump is running..?also with the engine running ? sounds like pump does not have the correct pressure when engine is running ...

check for proper ground and feed voltage at pump with pump on ..

you also stated spraying carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks..this is good for cleaning metal only..this product over time destroys gaskets and rubber compounds..

I'm surprised you are asking this question since you are a regular poster ..

the fuel pump must have the fuel test proceedure done..this with your limited testing appears to be the fuel pump check valve..but what is the pressure with the key on engine off and the pump is running..?also with the engine running ? sounds like pump does not have the correct pressure when engine is running ...

check for proper ground and feed voltage at pump with pump on ..

you also stated spraying carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks..this is good for cleaning metal only..this product over time destroys gaskets and rubber compounds..

Haha yeah. I am not too used to working on vortec 350's. The older TBI 350's and I am all over it. I guess I should have tested the fuel pressure with the truck running. I didn't even think of that.:screwy: Sucks that things always go out when it is cold out and you freeze your fingers off. I just hope it isn't my new fuel pressure regulator again. It would suck to have to rip into there again. Not to mention that little thing was 60 bucks.

Haha yeah. I am not too used to working on vortec 350's. The older TBI 350's and I am all over it. I guess I should have tested the fuel pressure with the truck running. I didn't even think of that.:screwy: Sucks that things always go out when it is cold out and you freeze your fingers off. I just hope it isn't my new fuel pressure regulator again. It would suck to have to rip into there again. Not to mention that little thing was 60 bucks.

who made the fuel pump?

The fuel pump in the pickup is stock to my knowledge, the fuel pressure regulator I got from oreilley's and it was the better of the two choices they had, if I remember right the brand was BWD.