which paint for this look?

hello everyone:smooch:
sorry but i am a newbie and about to start a Revell 1/24 audi r8, so which (tamiya TS paint preferably) would i use if i wanted to replicate this type of black colour shown in this picture?:lol2:

http://cars.uk.msn.com/features/photos.aspx?cp-documentid=149182692&page=10

thank you!!:biggrin:

Which picture of which car? There are a few on there.

If it's the black Lambo you're talking about the colour is called Nero Pegaso and you can get it from Hiroboy's Zero range of colours.


Niclas

If it's the black Lambo you're talking about the colour is called Nero Pegaso and you can get it from Hiroboy's Zero range of colours.
I guess as a newbie he may not have the airbrush required to use Zero paints.

If not I would suggest just using Tamiya TS-14 gloss black (http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm) straight form the spray can.

If you apply it slowly and carefully with a moderate final wet coat, there may well be no real need to put a clear coat on it or even polish it to achieve a nice gloss finish.

Check out Alex Kustov's tutorial for painting - A very good guide to basic techniques and processes http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm

:iagree:

thank you for replies.:smokin:
yes i am talking about the blalck lamborghini on there. the colour on it looks perfect.:cool:
i dont have an airbrush so cant really use zero paints, i tried to see if i could buy one but they are too expensive at around 50-70 GBP for a good dual-action one.
ok i was wondering if any of the tamiya black sprays with a clearcoat would produce that kind of result, ofcourse it would require really really good painting technique to get it just like that.
so i will try TS-14 black, i have to order over internet and dont really have a hobby shop nearby where i live.

DSheth the paint is important, but take time to body work first. You have to wash the body to remove grease and demolding agent, sand all the body to remove any imperfection and all the injection marks - fine lines that cross the body, fill the gaps and little holes with Tamiya Putty or similar, sand it again and wash to apply an or two coatings of primer, sand again, this will help you to verify if everything is flat and uniform. I like to deepen the panel lines with the scriber to real looks. You have to polish for the shine looks. Good luck!

thank you AAlmeida
im gonna buy the TS black along with tamiya fine gray surface primer, i heard that grey primer works for darker colors and white for brighter colors, and that the primer has to be even throughout otherwise the base paint coat wont come out deep looking.

another question i have is that on tamiya website it says its best to paint the parts while they are still in there trees, but dont you have to apply primer to these parts aswell so it would be best to cut them out and prime them together in sets that you'll be using?

another question i have is that on tamiya website it says its best to paint the parts while they are still in there trees, but dont you have to apply primer to these parts as well so it would be best to cut them out and prime them together in sets that you'll be using?

Leaving parts on the sprue is one way to go, but that will leave unpainted bumps that need to be sanded off. There may also be mold lines. Priming on the tree is fine, but to avoid handling painted parts, I remove primed parts from the tree and clean them up before final painting. (Don't worry about little un-primed gaps.) For painting, most of the time I attach the parts to a cardboard "paddle" with double-sided carpet tape. Or hold them with clamps. There are hundreds of ways to hold a part for painting; use your imagination!

Until somebody invents an anti-gravity machine, it's impossible to float parts in mid-air for painting. So in most cases you'll need to paint the part twice to completely cover it.

As for painting the body, I know of two ways to get that extremely deep, glossy black.

You're on the right track as far as primer is concerned. Tamiya Grey will work fine for you.

If you don't want to buy an airbrush, use Tamiya TS-Series glossy black and clear-coat it with Tamiya TS-13. Even better - and a lot cheaper - clear-coat with U-POL Power Can clear. In the U.S., you can get it from Sam Ditchek & Sons at http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/uppocanae.html It's made in the U.K. (Wellingborough, Northants, England) so you should be able to get it at auto supply stores there.

After you've clear-coated, lightly wet-sand the body with 2000 grit to remove all orange peel and paint texture. (If you burn through to the color coat - s__t happens! - re-clear the area. TS-13 and U-POL will blend nicely with the previous coat.) Then follow the Tamiya compounding sequence: Coarse, Fine, and Finish. Finish is very, very fine compound and will produce an incredible gloss. You can also wax the car, but I think Tamiya Finish renders waxing unnecessary.

The Tamiya system is pretty much foolproof. Warm the spray cans under the hot water tap before spraying. Hold the nozzle about seven inches from the piece and move it fast to avoid sags and runs. You don't need to sand between coats. Humidity is not a big factor with lacquers; drying times are short, so dust is not a major problem. Just be sure to wait a few days before final sanding and compounding.

But even Tamiya TS and Tamiya Finish won't give you a gloss as awesome as 2k automotive urethane clear-coat. That's where Zero paints come in. But you'll need an airbrush. Follow their instructions and you'll get amazing results.

(I do have a concern about 2k clear-coats, especially for beginning modelers. They are virtually impossible to strip. If you screw up, you might as well trash the model.)

Ddms

wow thanks alot for all that and i will definately try the U-POL clear coat :wink:
i wont be able to use an airbrush to clearcoat because it would also mean i would get a compressor which is even more expensive.:banghead:
and did you mean TS-14 black like the other guy mentioned or TS-29 semi-gloss black?

.. did you mean TS-14 black like the other guy mentioned or TS-29 semi-gloss black?

TS-14 will do the trick.

Please let us know how it goes. That's a pretty reasonable price for all this advice!

Ddms

Hi,
I noticed your location is in London and as far as I'm aware, there still aren't any Tamiya spray cans available in the shops. It might be worth your while going into your local Halfords for their range of paints as it might end up being more economical for you. They also have clear coats in spraycans too. Also for your information, TS-14 has a glossy finish and TS-29 has, as it's name suggests, a semi-gloss finish which would be incorrect for the finish you appear to be after. Best of luck.

From reading Halfords' instructions, I get the impression that their spray paint is a synthetic lacquer like Tamiya TS-series and U-POL. Just follow the same procedure that we've suggested.

If you can't get the Tamiya compounds at local hobby shops, it's worth it to order them on-line. It's pricey stuff, but the tubes are light and compact, so shipping should be cheap.

I recommend that you DON'T use TS13 on your first model. There is a strong possibility/probability that you will lay too thick a coat and it will probably dissolve your paint and you won;t be happy. TS13 is a virulent clear coat - just do a search here on AF - that has led to many tears and frustrations.

I suggest that you get some Gunze Mr TopCoat (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_76&products_id=421) and use that. It gives just as good a finish and is won't damage the lower layers (or decals).

TS13 can give great results but is best used with some previous experience IMHO

As I said above, if you take it easy and prep well for the TS Black, you probably won't need a clear coat any way. It's better to set realistic goals for your first builds to avoid frustration. Focus at first on good preparation, a clean building style, laying paint well. :2cents: :D

You also don't need to clear over tamiya's gloss colour paints out of the can.
For reference, none of the plain colours i.e non-metallics (er... that'll be the black and red ones) in my sig have been clear coated.

I agree with both Klutz and DM.

I've been very happy with Tamiya, both cleared and not-cleared. I recently showed a TS'd model to the guys at my LHS, and they were amazed that it wasn't cleared. It can really produce a high gloss if it's sanded and compounded correctly. I think the key is to use 1500 or 2000 grit and Tamiya Coarse to eliminate all OP and paint texture. If you spray it right, you don't even need to sand it.

I've heard about problems with Tamiya TS-13, and had a few of my own spraying it over decals. That's why I switched to U-POL, and never looked back. I really love the stuff.

I've never used Mr.TopCoat. Is it waterborne or solvent-based?

Ddms

I've never used Mr.TopCoat. Is it waterborne or solvent-based?
AFAIK it's a waterbased acrylic clear.

thanks for your replies i really appreciete it!!:smokin:
I have ordered the tamiya compounds over ebay they were pretty cheap £10 for all three including postage+packing.
as for the tamiya paints, they seem to sell TS -14 black and TS-13 in this online shop, i tried to contact them if they have actual stock but no replys so far. the direct link is VERY long but its at http://www1.conrad-uk.com/ and if you search tamiya TS-14 it shows you a rather german picture of the paint.
i will look at halfords spray paints but i have another question which might seem a bit stupid:runaround:
do you need to put some sort of 'dull' clearcoat or varnish on the other parts of the model such as engine etc.. to lock the paint in, i will be using tamiya and revell acrylic paints for other parts apart from the body. Dont want to use enamel because they seem to be a bit dangerous.

thank you everyone for your help!!:icesangel

whoa...

An online store that serves the UK, may actually be based in the UK that has TS sprays for sale.
Wonder how long it'll be before someone (ahem... maybe me...) empties their shelves...

Keep looking for U-POL and Mr. Top Coat.

If you just can't find either one, be careful with the TS-13. Apply it before you apply decals. Spray the first coat very light and dry, i.e., from maybe 12 inches. Let the first coat dry before spraying the second coat, which should also be pretty light and dry. Don't ever spray it very wet. In other words, don't let it puddle on the surface.

No, you don't need to dullcoat or clearcoat areas painted with acrylics.

There's nothing "dangerous" about enamels. I much prefer them over acrylics for small parts. Enamels cover better with less paint, so they hide less detail. In my opinion, an enamel finish, flat or glossy, is more durable and better looking than an acrylic finish.

whoa...

An online store that serves the UK, may actually be based in the UK that has TS sprays for sale.
Wonder how long it'll be before someone (ahem... maybe me...) empties their shelves...

I checked the Conrad website. Interesting that they label TS-series paints as "acrylics."

Here ya go for U-POL in the UK:

http://www.bodyshopwarehouse.co.uk/category/powercan

Order the UV-resistant clear coat.

Ddms

I know there is a Mr. Hobby Top Coat which is water based so it should be safe for decals, but I'm confused as to if wet sanding it or washing off polishing compound from it etc will affect the clear coat. Is it safe after drying, to let it get in contact with water?

Is it safe after drying, to let it get in contact with water?

Yes, once they are dry, acrylics are not affected by water.

Ddms

noo i ordered TS-14 and TS-13 from the conrad shop, they emailed me back and said they had it in stock, i got a 10% discount too because it was my first order with them.
i shoulda got the u-pol its soo cheap compared to tamiya TS too :banghead:

I also agree with both Klutz and DM.

Tamyia's stuff can produce very nice finishes, but i would be very careful and use very fine coats. I had the experience of too much and it was bad. If you have an airbrush, Johnson Clear (Future) polish is very good. Its safe, cheep and easy to use.

If you get MR TOP coat, test on something else first as sometimes the can lies. Which ever you use, make sure that there is no temp fluctuation. I talked to some paint experts in regards to a crackling issue I had. I added the clear coat in the garage, and overnight we had a very cold spell, causing the clear to shrink, taking the paint with it. So let it dry where there will not be fluctuations, preferably somewhere warm and dry.

i shoulda got the u-pol its soo cheap compared to tamiya TS too :banghead:

:iagree:And better!