timing belt troubles

O.K here goes. For those of you out there like me whose 1998 Contour timing belt has quit moving. Replacing the timing belt is extremely difficult even if you think you are handy. I got in over my head. The first and maybe most important thing is that it is a non interference engine, meaning that if the timing belt goes out the engine is not ruined, you only need to fix the issues with the timing belt. (in some cars when the belt goes out your screwed). However fixing it yourself is a pain in the ass like you wouldn't believe. I think it's worth getting someone else to do it. You need special tools, a ton of patience and time and a manual. I will try to list the problems in order here:
1. You would think you could accomplish it all from on top of the motor but you have to jack up the passenger side, take the wheel off, and remove an access panel to get to the heart of the removal.
2. You have to remove the crankshaft pulley which can be very difficult. You will find lots of stuff online about impact wrenches and leverage bars, but what I did was wedge a 18mm socket wrench with no extension on the front side of the frame and had my daughter crank the engine, it came off like magic. The manuel said to remove the starter and wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel, but that is a huge job (it's hard to even see the starter let alone reach it. To get to the starter you have to remove the entire air intake assembly, remove the top two bolts, jack up the driver side of the car, crawl underneath to remove the bottom bolt and then figure out how to wedge a screwdriver in the fly wheel. It's just B.S.
3. It may not even be the belt itself but one of three pulleys that has gone bad. When I removed the bottom cover, there were bearings laying all over. One of the pulleys bearings went out leading to the timing belt coming off.
4. At any rate if it is a fairly high mileage car you pretty much have to replace the two pulleys the tensioner pulley, and the belt which cost around $200 in parts.
5. If your timing belt failed and it's not a routine replacement you will have to figure out how to time the engine from scratch. My manuel only gave instructions for replacement as if everything else was in place, which it wasn't.
6. You need a set of Torx sockets to remove and install the pulleys and to loosen the cam sprockts. You have to make a special tool to align the slots on the driver side of the cams, it needs to be .20 of an inch and hardly anything comes in that width. In my case I found a builders square at home depot that was .10 and cut it with a hacksaw to make two pieces to stack and make .20. You also have to devise a third tool to hold the cam sprockets in place to loosen or tighten them.
7. You really should replace the water pump while your delving so deep which requires taking of a big piece of plastic from underneath the radiator (like a dozen screws) so you can drain it. The drain bolt is on the passenger side and hard to reach and remove. It's almost like Ford wants you to suffer.
8. Everything is hard to reach and deal with and make sense of. Even removing the serpentine belt is monumental.
9. In essence this car is a piece of shit and should have never been made to torture us do it yourselfers.
10. I've only completed the dissasemby portion of the job as of this moment. I'll post more about how to retime the motor. Note the notches on the crank pulley are almost invisable and are not "in pairs" as suggested in the maunaul.
11. If you want to check to see if it is the timing belt gone wrong in the first place, grab a flashlight, remove the oil filler cap, have someone crank the ignition for a few seconds, if the belt is bad the cam lobes wont move.