New turbo from the junkyard

So you all know the 20g got damaged by the compressor nut so I was in the market for a new turbo. The 20g would still boost but spooled slower, had a few chipped blades and the shaft got a little bent. I wanted a turbo that was a little bigger than the 20g but on the cheap side. Decided I would go with a holset turbo. Capable of making good power and still spooling quick. Also very cheap. These turbos are off the cummins diesel motor and sell for around 250-400 used. These turbos are also capable of taking quite the beating. Diesels can run 40+psi. After looking locally and online/ebay I stumbled upon a few wrecked dodge diesel trucks in the junkyard. The trucks were wrecked so the motor was still good. Found a nice holset turbo that seemed to be in good shape. Also it was what i needed having the T3 exhaust flange and 3" vband exhaust adapter stock. Spent a few hours on it today pulling it off and ended up buying it for $45. It has 200k on it but only a tiny but of shaft play, which im sure is just cause it has no oil in it. Started tearing it apart tonight and cleaning it up, if everything goes as planned I will be installing it on saturday or sunday!

The turbo is a holset WH1c. 8 blade, 56mm inducer capable of flowing up to 52lb/min. Should max around 500whp. I will be using the stock 12^cm divided T3 housing which should give full boost a touch after 4k. I could use the dsm flanged bolt on housing which would decrease spool time by 5-600rpms but doesn't work with my setup. Enjoy the pics.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00028-20091221-1414.jpg?t=1261544951
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00031-20091222-1725.jpg?t=1261545204
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00032-20091222-2042.jpg?t=1261545227
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00034-20091222-2338.jpg?t=1261545249
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00036-20091222-2339.jpg?t=1261545274

Badass... That'll be fun on the DSM... They make some crazy power on the diesels with those things...

Thing is massive!

(Nice triple post BTW)

Holset was installed today. Had to cut and reweld the flange on the manifold to allow the compressor housing to clear the radiator. It barely fit with this manifold. Also has to chop off my wastegate extention and reweld it a little bit higher. Overall it turned out pretty good. Took about 4-5 hrs to complete everything which isin't to bad. Have a few exhaust leaks but those will get fixed this week. Pulling the manifold back off this week to wrap the manifold with heat wrap, should help cut down on some of the heat in the engine bay. Also the manifold is starting to look bad with finger prints burning into the stainless. The compressor housing is not setup for boost reference yet so the wastegate was not hooked up yet. The turbo spools a little bit slower than I would have liked. 10psi at 4k then shoots up pretty quick. Full boost by 4.5k probably. I was still running 2" pipe on the hot side of the intercooler and didn't have enough 2.5" to replace it with yet so had to use a lowes plumbing coupler to reduce the compressor down to 2". Ended up blowing it off when hitting ab 20psi real quick so that will need to get fixed tomorrow also. Planning on doing some tuning this week and messing with timing some maybe getting it to spool a little quicker by pulling some timing in the spool areas of the map. Pics will get posted up soon.

Sweet deal man. I hear nothing but good about Holsets on Tuners. I'm guessing you didn't take the compressor nut off this time. Should be a nice setup once you get everything right. Post up pics soon please. I will have some updates on my Spyder soon.
I'm glad your keeping your lips lubricated in these cold conditions.

i really hope this turbo hlds up well for you.. its about time your luck changes

ps is your car getting dynoed? fb stalking

That turbo cleaned up really nice btw. I can't wait to hear the hp increase from the new turbo.

We were just messing around with the dyno yesterday. My car only put down 270whp on the 20g. Which obviously is wrong, low boost hp seemed accurate but the dyno doesn't want to read over 270 for some reason. Its rated up to 450 so there is something wrong we have to figure out with it. Tried putting a camero on it to see if it peaked at 270 also but had some issues and by the time we worked them out we didn't have time to run it again. Next week hopefully everything will be straightened out and ill put the car back on there. Its only at 23psi right now, need to finish tuning it, its running 11.0s under boost and I have pulled 5* timing that I need to add back in. Still pulls like a MFer. Ill put some pics up after class today.

We were just messing around with the dyno yesterday. My car only put down 270whp on the 20g. Which obviously is wrong, .Nope. I made 272whp on a 20g years ago. My tune/AFC/fuel delivery were all suspect.

The car put down 340whp 312wtq about 2 weeks before that on 23psi. And that was with the 2.5" exhaust and cast manifold. That was changed out to the tubular manifold and full 3" exhaust before putting it on the dyno again. Both at mustang dynos BTW

I'm just pointing out that the number isn't "unusual" as HP ratings are MAX ratings. Hell, my SCM61 is rated for 600. I do not make 600. ;)

Here are some pics of the holset installed. Still need to get some more wrap and finish the manifold and wrap the coolant line but its getting there. Need to install the new clutch and then hit the track with it. Going to max out these 650 injectors, still running 2" hot intercooler pipe that I need to change over to 2.5". That will have to wait till the summer tho, sure thats killing the top end of this car. Let me know what you guys think

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00051-20100115-1514.jpg?t=1263587213
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00052-20100115-1514.jpg?t=1263587325
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00053-20100115-1516.jpg?t=1263587355

Damage to the 20g wheel. Surprisingly the housing is fine, turbo could be repaired with a new compressor wheel.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/IMG00054-20100115-1517.jpg?t=1263587403

Holy hell that's tight fitting! Is it touching the rad?

Not anymore, on the top of the compressor housing you can see where it hit a few times but I pulled the rad forward a little and now it has about 1/4" of clearance or so. Its very tight

I'm interested in what your coolant temps do with that bad boy. Sounds like you're thinking in that direction already, though.

In the winter its not bad. Will sit right at 180ish. Got a 180 thermo stat in it, but in the summer it has cooling issues. Have to run with the heat on sometimes. Going to pull the ac soon and run 2 pusher fans like dave is doing and that should solve all my issues. I think 1 fan just cant keep up with that small rad.

The 2 fans will work so much better than the one. Mine with just the one always overheated on hot days when idling for too long. Never had the issue with the 2. Plus the pusher style moves them out of the way so you dont have to worry about them getting in the way with anything. I would recommend a 12" for the other one.

my god that turbo is close to the rad

That turbo looks like it was made that way, looks legit.

Question... is the oil feed line a problem being all going up and down? I always thought it had to be pretty level with as few "ups" as possible in it.

my god that turbo is close to the rad

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/Motor%20Build/1026091634bMedium.jpg
Mine sits very close as well. The Holset has a bigger housing, but even on these "smaller" turbos like my 54trim it's still really close. Manifold sucks.

Oil feed doesn't matter which way it goes. It has pressure behind it so as long as it doesn't kink its fine. I think your talking about the way the turbo is oriented. Its suppose to be and verticle as possible, oil feed straight up and drain down to keep the oil draining properly.

Not anymore, on the top of the compressor housing you can see where it hit a few times but I pulled the rad forward a little and now it has about 1/4" of clearance or so. Its very tight



Woot! Is that tin foil wrapping those radiator hoses?

Yea, temp fix till i get some more heat wrap. Going to wrap the hose. The vband clamp is pretty close to it and dont want it to melt.

So what way have you decided to go with the clutch?

I am changing out the pressure plate to the 2400lb one again. If yall remember it wouldn't release but I have a 3kgt slave cylinder that has a smaller bore so it will give me the travel I need to release it. It was calculated to hold ab 600-700 ft lbs of torque

Yea, temp fix till i get some more heat wrap. Going to wrap the hose. The vband clamp is pretty close to it and dont want it to melt.

Haha, I figured, I was taken aback by it's awesomeness. :iceslolan

Can't wait to see what kind of power you make with it.

I am changing out the pressure plate to the 2400lb one again. If yall remember it wouldn't release but I have a 3kgt slave cylinder that has a smaller bore so it will give me the travel I need to release it. It was calculated to hold ab 600-700 ft lbs of torque

Something else to consider.....
Ive never worked on a 420a Eclipse. But between my 2.4 Spyder GS and my GST, though the master cylinders look the same, actually the master cylinder off of my 96 GST, has more travel. I know this because I have taken apart and compared side by side both the factory Spyder m-cylinder and the factory 96 GST m-cylinder.
I have rebuilt the master and slave cylinders on both of my cars. Both of my cars have stainless clutch line. Even though my GST has a heavier clutch, it has a much better pedal (as far as engagement and disengagement goes). Whereas on my Spyder, even with the pedal adjusted all the way out, I get ever so slight drag.

Just somthing to look into, like I said I have no idea what kind of equipment is on a 420a DSM.

I actually would like to find a master with a larger bore to push the stock slave out more. Going to the smaller slave works fine but increases the pedal effort a good bit. Going with a 2400lb plate and the small slave may be one hell of a clutch to push. May buy a used master cylinder and try to bore it out with a larger piston.

VG - new parts make a world of a difference. Master cylinders wear over the years and cause the clutch to become stiff and give bad engagements. They actually should be changed as maintenance every 10 yrs at least

Yea.....thats right. Thats why both of my Eclipses have new clutch master cylinders, slave cylinders, and lines. I was saying that from my own experience with my factory turbo and factory non turbo eclipses; The turbo models are equipped with a master cylinder that has more travel and throw than a non turbo model. I was suggesting that it may be beneficial for you to swap to a turbo model master cylinder. When I go to work tonight I will do some research on which master cylinder came on your car.

IIRC, the Perfection part number for a turbo master cylinder is 380086 whereas the number for a non-turbo (Spyder) is 380087.

Yea I will have to look into that. I was considering boring a stock masters cylinder out and finding a different piston to go in it

That may work, I was just trying to let you know you may have another option.

I was wrong with the part numbers they were 350086 and 350087

I see what your saying. I will have to look into that some. If I do put master in there with a longer stoke the pedal will end up being moved up higher to push more fluid. Which may work also but Ill have to do some calculations to see if it would be enough to release the clutch. The stock slave now moves ~.350", I need ~.500". So its a good bit more. But its deffinately worth looking into. Thanks man

I see what your saying. I will have to look into that some. If I do put master in there with a longer stoke the pedal will end up being moved up higher to push more fluid.

:D Exactly. The pedal on my GST is soo much better than my spyder, and the only really thing I can contribute that to is the difference in the master's since the rest of the setups on the cars are basically the same.
I am going to get a used Turbo master cylinder, put new seals in it, and put it in my Spyder, I really think that will fix my drag problem.

Any chance on getting all this stuff figured out by this weekend? My clutch isn't fully right so was going to rebleed, but then thinking just to replace the slave since I'm in there. I'm personally fine with a heavy pedal as I know where it's at.

VG... do you remember what sizes the fittings are to replace to SS? I've got a ton of SS line and may as well swap that out too while I'm in there.

Dave you dont need to worry about using a different master/slave cylinder. If yours isint releasing all the way you probably have air in the line and it needs to be rebleed like you said. Upgrading to the SS line is also a good idea. At one point when my car got hot the clutch line would expand under pressure and the clutch would no release. So if the master/slave or line haven't been replaced recently it could be any of those. Hopefully bleeding will take care of the problem tho. Now for fittings on the clutch line I think you are better off buying one. I think mine was like $20, the clutch line uses a flare fitting and a banjo on the slave.

Yea I just bought the stainless line kit off extremepsi. Its for a GST though. On my red car I just replaced the rubber section with stainless. But on my grey car I replaced from the master to the slave in stainless.

My car already had the ACT2600 so the pedal was already a bit stiff. But when I replaced the slave and master cylinder, also installed ss clutch line, the pedal was a lot like a brake pedal. This one time I drove my buddies v6 Sebring w/ a 5 speed. I thought there was something wrong with his clutch because it was like pushing in the gas pedal, felt like nothing was there. I drove his car for the weekend because he wasn't use to driving in busy traffic and we were going to a concert that weekend. The day we got back, I hoped in my car and I thought something was wrong with my clutch pedal because of all the resistance I had forgot about.

^not really relevant but hey, thought I'd share anyway. Didn't proof read either so hope you had fun