Picking up a 350 today!!
bhw33191
12-13-2009, 06:18 PM
getting it off craigslist for only $750. I think its a DEAL. only 10,000 miles on it when the guys truck fell apart so he took it out and its been sitting around. Its an LM1 350 i think? He gave some "stock specs" for the motor..but he actually put on some upgrades.
"Motor is a GM long block part # 10067353 I paid over $1200 and it fits all GM's from 1969 to 1986.
The Carburetor and aluminum intake manifold are from Edelbrock (#1406 & #2101) and are installed onto motor. I paid over $350 for these."
So if these are the right stock specs..the engine should make more with the intake/carb upgrade the guy did. And on top of that, if i remember correctly, if i use my 305 computer with this 350 it has a more agressive spark pattern so thatll up the HP too?
I'm picking it up tonight..CAN'T WAIT!!
Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
"Motor is a GM long block part # 10067353 I paid over $1200 and it fits all GM's from 1969 to 1986.
The Carburetor and aluminum intake manifold are from Edelbrock (#1406 & #2101) and are installed onto motor. I paid over $350 for these."
So if these are the right stock specs..the engine should make more with the intake/carb upgrade the guy did. And on top of that, if i remember correctly, if i use my 305 computer with this 350 it has a more agressive spark pattern so thatll up the HP too?
I'm picking it up tonight..CAN'T WAIT!!
Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
silicon212
12-13-2009, 09:10 PM
The more aggressive timing won't up the HP, but it does help with torque and acceleration, making the engine more responsive.
Sounds like a Goodwrench crate 350. It's pretty much an LM1, which is defined by the factory as the standard 4-bbl carb 350.
Sounds like a Goodwrench crate 350. It's pretty much an LM1, which is defined by the factory as the standard 4-bbl carb 350.
j cAT
12-14-2009, 12:33 AM
looks like you'll be burning rubber now !
bhw33191
12-16-2009, 03:24 PM
The more aggressive timing won't up the HP, but it does help with torque and acceleration, making the engine more responsive.
Sounds like a Goodwrench crate 350. It's pretty much an LM1, which is defined by the factory as the standard 4-bbl carb 350.
Just one concern, i remember you saying that the 700R4 can only handle about 250hp or something like that. Not sure what you said on torque. Luckily my trans has been recently rebuilt so that gives me "less" of a chance screwing it up. I don't think i plan on doing any serious upgrades anyway so i think this engine will be just right for the trans.
Sounds like a Goodwrench crate 350. It's pretty much an LM1, which is defined by the factory as the standard 4-bbl carb 350.
Just one concern, i remember you saying that the 700R4 can only handle about 250hp or something like that. Not sure what you said on torque. Luckily my trans has been recently rebuilt so that gives me "less" of a chance screwing it up. I don't think i plan on doing any serious upgrades anyway so i think this engine will be just right for the trans.
j cAT
12-16-2009, 03:43 PM
Just one concern, i remember you saying that the 700R4 can only handle about 250hp or something like that. Not sure what you said on torque. Luckily my trans has been recently rebuilt so that gives me "less" of a chance screwing it up. I don't think i plan on doing any serious upgrades anyway so i think this engine will be just right for the trans.
by installing a large transmission cooler this will keep the trans temp low...this will reduce fluid from getting damaged..
when you accelerate from a stop take it easy...or you could crack some internal transmission componets...700r4 is not made for this 350cu power or for the 305 power.. the TH-350 3speed tranny is stonger...
by installing a large transmission cooler this will keep the trans temp low...this will reduce fluid from getting damaged..
when you accelerate from a stop take it easy...or you could crack some internal transmission componets...700r4 is not made for this 350cu power or for the 305 power.. the TH-350 3speed tranny is stonger...
Blt2Lst
12-16-2009, 06:07 PM
700r4 is not made for this 350cu power or for the 305 power.. the TH-350 3speed tranny is stonger...
There are many people using the 700r4 for high HP applications.
Just like anything else, it must be built properly to handle the power.
Although, 250HP is not really considered high horsepower.
There are many people using the 700r4 for high HP applications.
Just like anything else, it must be built properly to handle the power.
Although, 250HP is not really considered high horsepower.
j cAT
12-16-2009, 07:15 PM
There are many people using the 700r4 for high HP applications.
Just like anything else, it must be built properly to handle the power.
Although, 250HP is not really considered high horsepower.
saying this is sooo easy.....getting it done is not easy.....many rebuilder say they are the experts they can do it right...your lucky they put the right fluid in it never mind the proper parts to handle this power in a transmission thats obsolete...
the only way this could be done correctly is if the builder was the owner of this and spent the time and money to find and install correctly...all the parts required....sure it is do able....
Just like anything else, it must be built properly to handle the power.
Although, 250HP is not really considered high horsepower.
saying this is sooo easy.....getting it done is not easy.....many rebuilder say they are the experts they can do it right...your lucky they put the right fluid in it never mind the proper parts to handle this power in a transmission thats obsolete...
the only way this could be done correctly is if the builder was the owner of this and spent the time and money to find and install correctly...all the parts required....sure it is do able....
bhw33191
12-16-2009, 09:43 PM
saying this is sooo easy.....getting it done is not easy.....many rebuilder say they are the experts they can do it right...your lucky they put the right fluid in it never mind the proper parts to handle this power in a transmission thats obsolete...
the only way this could be done correctly is if the builder was the owner of this and spent the time and money to find and install correctly...all the parts required....sure it is do able....
Nuthin but the truth! I do know the owner of the trans shop i brought mine to and i think i can trust him, but even at that i still felt uneasy about it. I do know that he at least had some part in rebuilding it. I DEFINATELY know what you mean though..these days its hard to trust ANYONE with your car!!
And speaking of transmissions. When i transplant the engine, i'm not sure what to do about that cable (forget what its called) that goes from the carb (i think) to the trans? If i'm not mistaken, if this isn't adjusted correctly, the flow of trans fluid may be wrong and could burn out some parts?
the only way this could be done correctly is if the builder was the owner of this and spent the time and money to find and install correctly...all the parts required....sure it is do able....
Nuthin but the truth! I do know the owner of the trans shop i brought mine to and i think i can trust him, but even at that i still felt uneasy about it. I do know that he at least had some part in rebuilding it. I DEFINATELY know what you mean though..these days its hard to trust ANYONE with your car!!
And speaking of transmissions. When i transplant the engine, i'm not sure what to do about that cable (forget what its called) that goes from the carb (i think) to the trans? If i'm not mistaken, if this isn't adjusted correctly, the flow of trans fluid may be wrong and could burn out some parts?
j cAT
12-17-2009, 09:17 AM
And speaking of transmissions. When i transplant the engine, i'm not sure what to do about that cable (forget what its called) that goes from the carb (i think) to the trans? If i'm not mistaken, if this isn't adjusted correctly, the flow of trans fluid may be wrong and could burn out some parts?
see how the cable is set now...then using the same cable switch to new engine and adjust to the same point..
then you will have it close ..then adjust using the method described in these forums..easy ...
see how the cable is set now...then using the same cable switch to new engine and adjust to the same point..
then you will have it close ..then adjust using the method described in these forums..easy ...
Blt2Lst
12-17-2009, 11:46 AM
these days its hard to trust ANYONE with your car!!
You can say that again..:disappoin
You can say that again..:disappoin
silicon212
12-20-2009, 02:32 PM
The transmission in your car, if original (1983?), has a 27-spline input shaft that's prone to breakage with high torque engines, but you shouldn't have to worry about that with a 350 that's more or less stock. I wouldn't put 400 lb. ft. through it, though. If it has the 30-spline input shaft, the factory part is good to about 600 lb. ft. The 30-spline input shaft made its debut at the halfway point of the 1984 model year.
The trans that is in my car now is out of a 1986 Caprice Classic Brougham that had a 305 in it. It had about 50k miles on it when I got it and I did nothing to it at all. Put it in my car where it's been great for over 3 years (and I've doubled that mileage). It has the auxiliary valve body in it, which prevents the car from 'lurching' when you put it in gear (esp reverse), thereby lowering the amount of breakage.
As for the TV cable, J cat has good advice here. Mark it where it is now, and make sure it goes back to that mark (if it gets moved) when you put it back together. If it seems a little 'soft', you can pull the cable one notch back toward the firewall (press on the 'D' clip).
Remember, it's torque the transmission is rated in - a 250-300HP engine like what's in my car does about 300-350 lb. ft. (for a 350) of max, peak torque and these transmissions should handle that fine.
The trans that is in my car now is out of a 1986 Caprice Classic Brougham that had a 305 in it. It had about 50k miles on it when I got it and I did nothing to it at all. Put it in my car where it's been great for over 3 years (and I've doubled that mileage). It has the auxiliary valve body in it, which prevents the car from 'lurching' when you put it in gear (esp reverse), thereby lowering the amount of breakage.
As for the TV cable, J cat has good advice here. Mark it where it is now, and make sure it goes back to that mark (if it gets moved) when you put it back together. If it seems a little 'soft', you can pull the cable one notch back toward the firewall (press on the 'D' clip).
Remember, it's torque the transmission is rated in - a 250-300HP engine like what's in my car does about 300-350 lb. ft. (for a 350) of max, peak torque and these transmissions should handle that fine.
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