Need help-No start

’97 4.3 Blazer. Got in to go to the store the other night, truck started fine and as soon as I shifted it on drive and started to drive off the fuel gauge spiked, lights blinked and the truck died. Started it again, fired right up and again it died as I started to drive away. Started a third time and let it run for a minute before driving off, made it to the end of the road and it died again, once again the fuel gauge spiked and then the truck died. Started up fine, pulled out onto the street and into a parking lot across the street to turn around and take it home. I stopped in the parking lot and played with the shifter to see if it would die again, it did eventually die. Started it once more, this time it took a few tries to get it going, made it home and shut the truck off.

Now it won’t start at all. Tested the battery with a DMM and it was reading 8.5 volts so it took it to the auto shop to have it tested. They charged and tested the battery and it tested good so I took it home and installed and tried to start but no go. Cranks fine, all fuses in fuse box check good and everything seems to be getting power (windows, heater, wipers, lights, etc.). The battery gauge is pinned at <9 and it doesn’t move at all regardless of key position or trying to start, I can’t shift with key in the on position and I don’t hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key to on position (I do hear it running after trying to start it).

Any ideas? Did something get fried or is this a fuel issue? Haven’t checked pressure, I’ll need to get a hold of a tester for that. Any fuses hiding that maybe be responsible? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

is your check engine lite on? this sounds like maf or could be fuel pump? when you turn key on can you hear the fuel pump good? if lite is on try to get it to advanced or autozone so they can plug it in but for them your check engine lite has to be on. and how longs it been since you changed gas filter? looked back and seen you cant hear fuel pump that's not good sign.

is your check engine lite on? this sounds like maf or could be fuel pump? when you turn key on can you hear the fuel pump good? if lite is on try to get it to advanced or autozone so they can plug it in but for them your check engine lite has to be on. and how longs it been since you changed gas filter? looked back and seen you cant hear fuel pump that's not good sign.


There was no check engine light before this happened, during the spike/shut down or now. I can't get it started to get to the parts store.

When I turn the key to the on position I do not hear the pump. If I turn it to start and let the engine crank I hear it running after I stop cranking the engine. The filter is two years old but it probably has at the most 5000-7000 miles on it.

There was no check engine light before this happened, during the spike/shut down or now. I can't get it started to get to the parts store.

When I turn the key to the on position I do not hear the pump. If I turn it to start and let the engine crank I hear it running after I stop cranking the engine. The filter is two years old but it probably has at the most 5000-7000 miles on it.

When no start always check for good hot blue spark to all plugs.
If no spark check ing system for lose of spark.
If good spark to plugs check for fuel pressure up to specs.

You should see 60/66 lbs of fuel pressure.

You need 65 lbs of pressure key on engine prime up and engine cranking.

Ir no 2 second key on engine fuel pump run prime up check fuel pump relay.

DOES FUEL PUMP KICK IN WHEN STARTER FIRST KICKS IN OR AFTER FUEL PRESSURE COMES UP?

Post back what you are losing spark or fuel pressure.

When no start always check for good hot blue spark to all plugs.
If no spark check ing system for lose of spark.
If good spark to plugs check for fuel pressure up to specs.

You should see 60/66 lbs of fuel pressure.

You need 65 lbs of pressure key on engine prime up and engine cranking.

Ir no 2 second key on engine fuel pump run prime up check fuel pump relay.

DOES FUEL PUMP KICK IN WHEN STARTER FIRST KICKS IN OR AFTER FUEL PRESSURE COMES UP?

Post back what you are losing spark or fuel pressure.


It's been a cold, miserable, and busy month so I am just now getting back to playing with it.

Playing around with it testing for spark I was not able to get any spark off the plugs or the wire coming out of the coil. Also tried shooting some Starter fluid into the intake and still it would not kick over.

While playing around with it this afternoon it occurred to me that when I put the key in and turn it to the run position, other than the gas gauge which would peg itself full, I was not getting anything working on the instrument cluster. No battery voltage, even after the battery was charged, no dummy lights, no buzzing noise telling me the key was in the ignition (radio, windows, driver info center, etc. seemed to work fine) and I could shift it out of park either. I played around with the key a bit and after a little wiggling and turning of the key on and off the dummy lights, gauges and buzzing all came to life and I am again able to shift the car from park. Only thing is now the speedometer and tach bounce around and the left most relay in the glove box has a constant clicking noise coming from it I am assuming it is opening and closing repeatedly. If I take the key out and then out it back in and turn it to run again I get nothing. When I attempt to start it again everything will then pop back on. Any ideas on what is causing this? What to look at?

Sorry I still haven't been able to get the fuel pressure. I'll go out early in the new year and pick up a test kit.

97 is a bad year on ign switches.
Make sure ign switch is turning on 12 volt power to evertything.

Went out today to push her into the driveway to play with it and while I was trying to get the shifter out of park I had the key sitting in the ignition in the on position. After about 5 minutes of just sitting there everything kicked on. Being an idiot I promptly turned the key off and when I turned it back on again I got nothing. I let it sit for a few more minutes and sure enough it came to life, I shifted it into neutral (so I could push it just incase it kicke out again) and tried to start her and she fired right up. Let her run for about 15 minutes, drove it around the block a few times pulled it into the driveway, shut it off and again nothing.

Do I need to go with the Delco switch or would aftermarket be fine for this? The local Oreilly's has a BWD in stock for 84.99 with lifetime warranty.

Proper testing before throwing parts at it.

YOU HAVE A BAD CONNECTION SOME PLACE

When no start is the time to test for lose of power.


DOES THE HEAD LIGHTS QUIT OR FADE OUT WHEN NO START?

Can you jumper starter and get starter to turn over when no start?

Proper testing before throwing parts at it.

YOU HAVE A BAD CONNECTION SOME PLACE

When no start is the time to test for lose of power.


DOES THE HEAD LIGHTS QUIT OR FADE OUT WHEN NO START?

Can you jumper starter and get starter to turn over when no start?

Headlights do not quit. There is a slight dimmng when I turn the key to start and try cranking it but other than that the headlights come on and seem to be of proper intensity.

Starter seems to crank just fine it as long as battery has juice. Just went outside and it was cranking very strong. Do you want me to try jumping the starter anyway?

No on jumper starter then.
In upper post you stated you turned on key to start and got nothing.
I asumed the starter was not tuning over.
But Test ign switch before repacing.
Good Luck

No on jumper starter then.
In upper post you stated you turned on key to start and got nothing.
I asumed the starter was not tuning over.
But Test ign switch before repacing.
Good Luck

No sorry. When I said I got nothing I meant the dummy lights, key buzz, ability to shift etc.

What is proper test for switch?

The switch test is check for power in to it and power out to everything that should have 12 volt power key on.
A good wiring diagram should show power in and power out.

While I always agree with MT in that proper testing is always the right method, given this is a '97 and is showing tell tale signs of poor contacts associated with the ignition switch, I am willing to bet, you need a new ignition switch. AC delco, don't waste time with the aftermarket on this, you don't want to be doing this any time soon again.

Also, mike2004tct, is the man to ask for help on this, he has a '97 that has given him ignition problems before.

So I went ahead and tackled taking apart the dash and changing the switch over the last 36 hours. Goods news is that when I put the key in everything comes on and the truck fires up and I only cut one finger splicing the auto start back in. The bad news is that it fires up just by turning the key to the on position as long as it is in park or neutral. If I let it sit in either and run it will continue cranking the starter, move it to gear and it is fine. Can anyone tell me which wires I crossed? :twak:


Thanks

The switch start wire is the yellow from switch to crank fuse.
If the starter runs with key on the starter circuit is getting power key on instead of start position.

Pull start fuse and see if it kills starter.
If so the ign switch or the yellow start wire is getting 12 volts key on.

Check switch for power on yellow wire key on.
Should only have power on start position.

The switch start wire is the yellow from switch to crank fuse.
If the starter runs with key on the starter circuit is getting power key on instead of start position.

Pull start fuse and see if it kills starter.
If so the ign switch or the yellow start wire is getting 12 volts key on.

Check switch for power on yellow wire key on.
Should only have power on start position.


I have a heater going in the garage trying to warm things up to go look at it. I pulled the start fuse and it does indeed stop the starter.

On the old switch, when I took it off, I had a gray line tied into the orange wire on the switch, a salmon colored wire tied into the pink, a little stub of a pink wire tied into the white and the yellow wire was cut with a purple wire connected to the yellow end leading to the harness and a yellow wire connected to the yellow wire leading to the steering wheel end.

Dammit now I can't get the harness disconnected. Is there something other than the screw holding it in there that I am forgetting? I seem to remember it just pulling out when I took the old one out. Is there anywhere I can pop a flat head in and push it out?

:sarcasmsign:If pulling the start fuse stops starter key on then someting at switch or between switch and start fuse is feeding 12 volts to start wire.

Sounds like you have mess wired into switch wiring.:sarcasmsign:

Remove all extra crap and wiring like remote start or theft alarm stuff.
Then check the start wire/starter.

Good luck

In Post 14 you said you spliced in auto start right?
Unsplice it and put wiring back OEM.
Throw the auto stat it in the trash can.

In Post 14 you said you spliced in auto start right?
Unsplice it and put wiring back OEM.
Throw the auto stat it in the trash can.


Yes, there was a remote start/alarm system on there that I spliced back in. I'll disconnect it.

Any tips for getting the harness end of the switch out? I unscrewed the screw and can't pull it out. Are there any tabs that need to be pushed in that I am forgetting or anywhere to get a screwdriver behind it and push it out?

Disconnect or clip it off where it is tied in it and see if it works ok.

Got it working, though I can't tell you what it was. I tried to remove the remote starter but as I got deeper into the wiring I realized had no clue what I was doing so I stopped. I figured I would take that to the shop and let the pros deal with it. So I took out the new switch and checked my connections vs the old switch to see if everything was the same, it was. Reconnected everything this time with some more permanent connections (just twisted and taped before) and reconnected back at the steering wheel and reconnected the battery. I put the key in and tested for power at the #20 fuse with the key in he run position and got about .01-.02 volts, turned to start and got around 11.5-12 volts. Put fuse back in, turned key to run and dummy lights all came on with no cranking, turned to start and she fired right up. :bananasmi

Is it possible that I installed the harness upside down and that was why it was so difficult to remove? Would there be constant power over there with the key on?

Thanks MT for putting up with my ignorance.

Now time to put the dash and steering column back together. Oy Vey

You are welcome
It is hard to plugin harness backwards.
I would say you wired up something backwards or the the remote start is acting up.
Good luck

Even if working good no it may act up again.
Not hard to clip wires to remote start and drop it in the trash can.
Also check all wiring for good conection.
Good Luck