ball joint replacement questions

I need to replace the front ball joint (passengers side).
The autozone guide is not completely clear.
Do you need to remove the caliper and/or hub assembly?
How long would ball joint replacement take on average?

I see now that the ball joints need to be greased but in what interval?
Thanks

I presume this is a newer front wheel drive PA, and not an ancient rear wheel drive one, right?

Yes, the caliper and rotor should be removed, to give more room to work.

Unbolt the caliper, but you do not have to remove it from the flexible line. Use a piece of wire or string etc to tie the caliper out of the way. Don't let it just hang by the flex line, since that can damage the line.

The last time I did one, I also unbolted the steering knuckle from the strut, and removed the drive shaft. (front wheel drive)

For an old rear drive car, there is no strut or driveshaft to remove. But you should support the lower control arm with a floor jack before separating the joint, for safety.

I usually grease all fittings, including the ball joints at every engine oil change, so every 5000 to 8000 km is fine.
Be sure to grease the new ones after you have installed them. Don't over-grease them, you do not want to rupture the new grease seals. Grease them just enough so that you can see the grease seal 'swell' a bit.

It is a 91 front wheel drive indeed.
I see Rockauto sells several brands of balljoints, with varying prices. Is Mevotech a good brand ?
Also are there any non metric sizes in this replacement except for the caliper bolts?

All the fasteners should be metric.

IMO go for a name brand, like Raybestos or Moog. Chances are, they will last much longer.

Is there some reason why you are not changing both front joints? Usually if one is gone, the other is not too far behind.

Get the Moog or TRW Ball joint...

If they have never been replaced before and are still stock you'll have fun drilling and grinding the hardened rivets... Do both sides and then have the alignment reset..

:confused: so instead of the 3 bolts I see on the Rockauto ball joints replacements, originally the ball joint is held in place by 3 rivets?

If the Ball Joint is original to the car it will have Rivets, hardened at that...

The replacements will have Bolts...

Ok thanks !
But if the original ball joints last almost 20 years, how long will the cheaper brands last?

Forgot to mention the rivets. Grinding them off (without ruining the control arm) is the worst part of the job.
I found I could carefully grind off 90% of the rivet head, then knock them out with an air chisel ( a punch and big hammer will do it, too.

And can this be done without realigning the wheels? Alignment is perfect now, and my experience is, nobody ever greases the tie rods overhere so they all have to be replaced.

Alignment can not be "perfect" with worn ball joints!

I understand what you're saying, let me put it differently, the car still drives perfectly;-)

I checked the prices overhere:
ACDelco $225
Moog $120

Well with that much difference is price, the selection is a no-brainier! Moog is probably superior to ACDelco these days! I just installed Moog sway-bar bushings & end-links on my PA with 'blue' polyurethane bushings; man what a difference that made in ride & handling!

I think the ball joint is still original and has rivets. How long would replacement, on average, take?
Also does anyone have the alignment data (camber, castor, toe) for a 91 PA base model?
Haynes just states that you should have professional alignment equipment which isn't very helpfull at all (again..)

The alignment was probably good some time ago. The ball joint wears. You lose a bit of alignment. You replace the worn part with a good new one. I'll tell you 99 out of 100 times. You alignment will be restored back to original.

I'm another one who can't rest until I know it's right and 50 - 150 dollars later EACH time. The alignment after replacing parts is right on.

I'm not talking about replacing eccentrics and parts that hang onto slotted holes like the old cars but if you replace anything NON ADJUSTABLE, it's probably ok.

As for the grease interval. Every oil change will be sufficient.

We checked the ball joint but couldn't find any radial or axial play. But the boot had a small crack and this is probably why it failed the inspection.
So we just put a replacement boot on it. The only things you really need to remove is the wheel and the sway bar linkage. There is enough room to grind out the rivets and replace the whole ball joint as well if necessary.
I'll bring the car in tomorrow for inspection and see if it passes with this fix.

I greased the fittings as well. But how are you suppose to grease them every 5000 or 8000 km without the boot tearing or coming off?

Wow. I am glad we don't have inspections in Kansas. I replaced a ball joint recently that had about a half inch of up-down play-yet the alignment seemed very good. The new joint threw the alignment off. I adjusted the tie rod to set the alignment along the side of the road. It took a couple of stops, but it is aligned just about perfect now.

Be glad if you don't have inspections, it can be very hard even if you know the ways..
This afternoon the guy doing the inspection failed the car again, he insisted that the whole ball joint be replaced as there was some play if you jerked the wheel really hard.
I went to another inspector, he could not find any play on the ball joints as well. He said the play when jerking the wheel around was from the power steering housing, as this was nearly gone with the engine running...
He said he would let the car pass when I return tomorrow....