way flooded

92 accord lx
2.2 f22a1
automatic






first post here so please be gentle. someone gave me this car because they couldn't get it to run... it has been to 3 local shops has had 2 ecu's 1 tcu. new ect sensor new ho2 sensor i did ohm them out even though new... i checked the ait sensor was in spec. fuel pressure is good, there is a injector pulse and a very strong spark....the car will start everyday and run for about 15 minutes before the cylinders get so soaked with gas it just won't run... i know it has a brand new main relay and fuel pressure never goes away... what on earth can cause this condition....the cel light is on always there is no led light in the computer unless its under the cover thats wrapped in warentys viod if removed. d4 light doesn't go out and if i jump the test port on the passenger side nothing changes. trying to think of everything i've done... fuel regulator is good... i thought injectors but its hard for me to imagine all 4 going bad at the same time. if you have any thoughs please let me know... [email protected] ([email protected]) if i forgot to mention something let me know i'll get right on it.

thanks terry

is there another forum i should take this question too... thanks terry

Give it a little time as not every one has the knowledge to fix this problem and the person that might will check in when time allows.
Jeff

I have to ask...did you get an actual fuel pressure reading? What was it?

How did you verify FPR was ok?

fuel pressure was 45lbs at the port in the fuel rail.... i disconnected the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator it went up to almost 50.... i attached a a hand held vacuum pump with a catch bottle and maintained vacuum didn't get any gas out of it i figured it was good... trying to find out how to test the ckp sensor but all 4 books i have skip my car. any hnep is appriciated

what are the chances the sensors inside the distributor are failing once the motor gets warm??

Wish I knew what spec is for this one but anyway 45 psi sounds healthy and not excessive.

Whatever you find be sure to change the oil once fixed...you probably have some cylinder washing and oil contamination if this has been going on for any time.

You check the vacuum line to the MAP sensor to make sure it's not cracked or collapsing when it warms up?

i found out once warm the ckp and tdc ohms go to zero but test perfect when the distributor is cold. i checked this 4 times because i just couldn't believe it... if this sound like complete crap to you guys let me know because i still can't fathom this the distributor couldn't have been over 150 degrees when it starts failing

Heat the distributor with a hair dryer with cold engine and see if you get a no-start...

If so, you've got your answer, sounds like...

Don't have that oxide red-brown dust in there, do you?

a little oil but very little. i have a temp gun and a big snap on scope i was watching the dwell when it started screwing up i don't know what dwell should be but it was steady at 14 then it started missing an sputtering and the dwell started jumping all over the place i figure if nothing else the only thing that can change dwell has to be in the distr.

Yeah it sounds like the cam position signal is breaking down and everything is going haywire from there. That cam pos sensor is in the distributor in yours, right?

If you have any oil in it it's time for it to fail probably soon anyway.

I think that given all the other symptoms, I'd probably be putting in a new dizzy that's complete with sensors....

waiting on cash will post here with results if any money falls my way that isn't going to bills. thanks for your replies

i would inspect the map sensor as well..generally not much goes bad on a honda, coil, igniter, intake air temp sensor.. and thats about it.. check the iat and the coolant temp sensor on the head. sounds like the computer is doing what it is suppose too.

update finally wires were completely eroded away inside the plastic sheath on 8 different wires suprised it ran at all but now it runs great but am struggling to get it through deq.... here they run front wheel drives on a roller. my idle passes 14ppm an 0.01 co... but at cruise on the rollers i watched an the rpm was 2500 @ 25 mph. by my nearest determination thats second gear... readings went to 384ppm and 0.59. max to pass is 220ppm and 1.2co... if anyone has a idea i'm listening this car is killing me...Is 43 degrees of advance too much at 2500 rpm's?

closing this thread... the problem was a egr valve that was opening early disconnected it an it flew through deq like a new car... thx