1999 Silhouette Charging problem

The battery is brand new and tested, but the battery still drains within 2 to 3 hours. Is there a diagram that will show the removal of the alternator? I need to remove it so I can have it tested, since I can't drive it far.
I have reached inside and can only find 2 bolts.

The battery is brand new and tested, but the battery still drains within 2 to 3 hours. Is there a diagram that will show the removal of the alternator? I need to remove it so I can have it tested, since I can't drive it far.
I have reached inside and can only find 2 bolts.

Scott,
Try to have a load test performed on the complete charging system (IN CAR) before attempting to remove the alternator.

I just read the procedure in the Haynes repair manual for your van and it is not as simple as 1,2,3.

There is too much to type here to give you instructions. If you can, find the Haynes repair manual (#38036) at almost any automotive supply store, it shows and explains in detail what to do.

The book will pay for itself in no time. (about $20)

I had the battery tested - tested perfect.

I put the battery back in and started the engine. I then disconnected the battery and the van stayed running. Therefore I now know that the alternator is still good.
If the starter was draining the battery ( bad cellinoid ) would it be harder to start? I fires right up.

I had the battery tested - tested perfect.

I put the battery back in and started the engine. I then disconnected the battery and the van stayed running. Therefore I now know that the alternator is still good.
If the starter was draining the battery ( bad cellinoid ) would it be harder to start? I fires right up.

To test if the alternator is putting out the correct voltage: The battery (properly hooked up with clean, tight connections) should be fully charged and with the engine off, and read approximately 12.4 to 12.6V.

Because the batteries in these vans are hard to access, hook the positive test lead to the battery terminal at the fuse/relay panel: attach the negative lead to the ground point on the inner fender.

Make sure the alternator connecting wiring is good and clean and properly connected.

Start the engine again and read the battery voltage. It should read more than the previously recorded 12.6V but not more than 14.7V.

If the starter solenoid was bad it likely wouldn't work.

When you turn the key to START does the instrument panel warning light come on for the charging system and then go off after the engine is running? If not, you will have a charging system problem.

You can have a bad diode in the alternator that will drain the battery after the engine is off. Really what you need to do is find out what the parasitic drain is that is occuring. With the key off, engine off hook a test light from the positive battery cable to the positive battery terminal. The light should be lit up. Start removing fuses until the light goes out or goes very dim. Do this one fuse at a time - remove the fuse, check the light - re-install the fuse and move on to the next one, etc.... You may want to start by removing the charging wire off of the alternator to see if there is a shorted diode in the alternator.

Now I am confused. I went through checking everything. I gave up for a day - then put the fully charged battery back in.
Wouldn't it figure. The engine turned right over and fired up. The "Service Engine " light was out. So I pulled the van out of the garage and let it sit for 4 hours to see if the battery was still draining. The battery held its full charge. Now I am dumbfounded. It is like the van totally reset itself. The only thing is that the overhead digital display is out, but I don't really care about this thing as long as the van is running again.