Changing passenger side plugs
evildragon
11-23-2009, 02:47 AM
Argh! I can't do it! I tried, and just looking at them scares the crap out of me.
My friend did the drivers side, but it got dark too soon..
Right now, drivers side, NGK IX Iridium plugs, and MSD Super Conductor wires, passenger side, cheap wires, and AC Delco 41-906's...
I really want to finish this wonderful plug and wire change, but I just can't get the damn wrench in there.. :banghead:
I'm almost ready to go VICE grips on this sucker.
My friend did the drivers side, but it got dark too soon..
Right now, drivers side, NGK IX Iridium plugs, and MSD Super Conductor wires, passenger side, cheap wires, and AC Delco 41-906's...
I really want to finish this wonderful plug and wire change, but I just can't get the damn wrench in there.. :banghead:
I'm almost ready to go VICE grips on this sucker.
Blt2Lst
11-23-2009, 01:12 PM
Argh! I can't do it! I tried, and just looking at them scares the crap out of me.
My friend did the drivers side, but it got dark too soon..
Right now, drivers side, NGK IX Iridium plugs, and MSD Super Conductor wires, passenger side, cheap wires, and AC Delco 41-906's...
I really want to finish this wonderful plug and wire change, but I just can't get the damn wrench in there.. :banghead:
I'm almost ready to go VICE grips on this sucker.
I feel your pain, been there..
I am not really familiar with the LT1 but sometimes plugs can be gotten to from the underside of the car or thru the fender well if you remove the wheels. I am sure someone will chime in on the best way to get at those suckers.
Also a flex head ratchet and 1" extension along with a universal joint plug socket may make easy work of things.
Good Luck
My friend did the drivers side, but it got dark too soon..
Right now, drivers side, NGK IX Iridium plugs, and MSD Super Conductor wires, passenger side, cheap wires, and AC Delco 41-906's...
I really want to finish this wonderful plug and wire change, but I just can't get the damn wrench in there.. :banghead:
I'm almost ready to go VICE grips on this sucker.
I feel your pain, been there..
I am not really familiar with the LT1 but sometimes plugs can be gotten to from the underside of the car or thru the fender well if you remove the wheels. I am sure someone will chime in on the best way to get at those suckers.
Also a flex head ratchet and 1" extension along with a universal joint plug socket may make easy work of things.
Good Luck
evildragon
11-23-2009, 04:17 PM
I just got it done. I without a doubt did not route the wires GM had intended. There's just no way without lifting the motor it seems..
But, it's working.. Second but!! I seem to have broke a boot on the #2 wire at the Opti.. Damnit!
But, it's working.. Second but!! I seem to have broke a boot on the #2 wire at the Opti.. Damnit!
Blt2Lst
11-23-2009, 05:05 PM
I seem to have broke a boot on the #2 wire at the Opti.. Damnit!
I hate when that happens..:banghead:
I hate when that happens..:banghead:
j cAT
11-23-2009, 05:58 PM
I just got it done. I without a doubt did not route the wires GM had intended. There's just no way without lifting the motor it seems..
But, it's working.. Second but!! I seem to have broke a boot on the #2 wire at the Opti.. Damnit!
the front passenger tire removal is needed when replacing these spark plugs. the use of soapy water spray is good as a lubricant to ease the removal of the plug boots, along with the boot removal tool.
removal of the flexible inner fender skirts is also advised so they don't get broken...
the plug wires need be routed as oem . if not you are looking for trouble later...
But, it's working.. Second but!! I seem to have broke a boot on the #2 wire at the Opti.. Damnit!
the front passenger tire removal is needed when replacing these spark plugs. the use of soapy water spray is good as a lubricant to ease the removal of the plug boots, along with the boot removal tool.
removal of the flexible inner fender skirts is also advised so they don't get broken...
the plug wires need be routed as oem . if not you are looking for trouble later...
evildragon
11-23-2009, 06:08 PM
There was just no way to route them OEM, the wires always end up having extra slack and they hang around anyway...
Oh, and I managed it without removing the tire, so it's not "required".. I just don't have the patience required.
Besides, people do OTVC mods and have no problems, not OEM, and I think I may be doing that kinda routing next.
Oh, and I managed it without removing the tire, so it's not "required".. I just don't have the patience required.
Besides, people do OTVC mods and have no problems, not OEM, and I think I may be doing that kinda routing next.
j cAT
11-23-2009, 08:05 PM
There was just no way to route them OEM, the wires always end up having extra slack and they hang around anyway...
Oh, and I managed it without removing the tire, so it's not "required".. I just don't have the patience required.
Besides, people do OTVC mods and have no problems, not OEM, and I think I may be doing that kinda routing next.
deesandvees uses insulating boots on his plug wires which look like a great way to keep the wires cool and protect from metal chaffing as well.
use of this material would be a great way to protect wires when not using the OEM routing .
on tire removal the reason I suggested it is because I have a 1996 ...since 1995 nov.. and I did this before...the tire removed is the best most secure way to go...also to check on the other wires/sensors starter connections ...with a vehicle this old the cheap OEM plastic loom turns to dust...must be replaced on plug wires and other wires/hoses..
this is how you can burn up a wire harness easy..by not maintaining the loom coverings,and clearances.
Oh, and I managed it without removing the tire, so it's not "required".. I just don't have the patience required.
Besides, people do OTVC mods and have no problems, not OEM, and I think I may be doing that kinda routing next.
deesandvees uses insulating boots on his plug wires which look like a great way to keep the wires cool and protect from metal chaffing as well.
use of this material would be a great way to protect wires when not using the OEM routing .
on tire removal the reason I suggested it is because I have a 1996 ...since 1995 nov.. and I did this before...the tire removed is the best most secure way to go...also to check on the other wires/sensors starter connections ...with a vehicle this old the cheap OEM plastic loom turns to dust...must be replaced on plug wires and other wires/hoses..
this is how you can burn up a wire harness easy..by not maintaining the loom coverings,and clearances.
evildragon
11-23-2009, 08:09 PM
I installed new looms..
I honestly think this is the last for this car anyway.. It's due to an engine rebuild, and I'm not going to pay for that, just replace the whole car.
I honestly think this is the last for this car anyway.. It's due to an engine rebuild, and I'm not going to pay for that, just replace the whole car.
j cAT
11-23-2009, 08:18 PM
I installed new looms..
.
since you used new loom where needed you should be good..
.
since you used new loom where needed you should be good..
Blue Bowtie
11-26-2009, 10:44 AM
the plug wires need be routed as oem . if not you are looking for trouble later...
I'll agree with that. You will also want to retain the factory heat shields if at all possible:
http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/PlugShield.jpg
I've been able to change mine from the bottom and route new wires from the same place. The #2 and #4 plug wires are not a lot of fun, but it's worth the effort to do it right.
I'll agree with that. You will also want to retain the factory heat shields if at all possible:
http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/PlugShield.jpg
I've been able to change mine from the bottom and route new wires from the same place. The #2 and #4 plug wires are not a lot of fun, but it's worth the effort to do it right.
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