Removing Tire from studs
Rob D.
11-16-2009, 04:35 PM
Hi all,
I know this may sound silly, but i can't, for the life of me get the tire off the car. I have jacked the car, removed the lug nuts and the tire won't budge. I have tried whacking the sidewall with a sledge, still no luck. I figure that the tires haven't been changed before and that's causing the problem. I'm wondering if you guys have any tricks for this.
It's a 2003 Toyota Echo.
I know this may sound silly, but i can't, for the life of me get the tire off the car. I have jacked the car, removed the lug nuts and the tire won't budge. I have tried whacking the sidewall with a sledge, still no luck. I figure that the tires haven't been changed before and that's causing the problem. I'm wondering if you guys have any tricks for this.
It's a 2003 Toyota Echo.
jdmccright
11-18-2009, 10:35 AM
Sounds a little familiar to me. I went to repaint the wheels on my Vibe last spring (a Toy Matrix rebadge). But the wheels were stuck on the hubs. It was actually the size of the center hole in the wheel that was just a little too small so it was hanging up on the hub center. Granted, this car came from salt-laden Rhode Island so rust was prevalent...when the rear wheels finally came off the rear drums came with them!
If you can get a pry bar into the wheel holes, you can try that along with spraying WD-40 or other penetrant around that center hub hole. I wouldn't bang on the rim with a hammer since that can damage the tire seal. But you can jack up one side of the car and use your feet to kick at the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock alternately to wiggle it loose. Or grip the tire at the top and shake it HARD (make sure the car is jacked up securely). Once you get them off, use some brake cleaner to remove any residual penetrant from the brake surfaces.
To help reduce rust, some will smear some grease on the hub flange (not the studs). I personally have applied rust-preventative paint to the drums and hub faces.
Good luck!
If you can get a pry bar into the wheel holes, you can try that along with spraying WD-40 or other penetrant around that center hub hole. I wouldn't bang on the rim with a hammer since that can damage the tire seal. But you can jack up one side of the car and use your feet to kick at the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock alternately to wiggle it loose. Or grip the tire at the top and shake it HARD (make sure the car is jacked up securely). Once you get them off, use some brake cleaner to remove any residual penetrant from the brake surfaces.
To help reduce rust, some will smear some grease on the hub flange (not the studs). I personally have applied rust-preventative paint to the drums and hub faces.
Good luck!
somick
11-20-2009, 11:26 PM
I have also heard that you may loosen the lug nuts and try to drive the car.
I hope it will work!
Good luck,
Sam
I hope it will work!
Good luck,
Sam
Rob D.
11-22-2009, 12:28 PM
I have also heard that you may loosen the lug nuts and try to drive the car.
I hope it will work!
Good luck,
Sam
Hi guys,
Thanks for the tips. I have tried them all and no luck. I sprayed some WD40 in the centre so i'll give it a try in a couple of days to see if anything has loosened up.
I hope it will work!
Good luck,
Sam
Hi guys,
Thanks for the tips. I have tried them all and no luck. I sprayed some WD40 in the centre so i'll give it a try in a couple of days to see if anything has loosened up.
Philscbx
12-10-2009, 02:49 AM
Like somick suggested, drive it can work,
with the wheel soaked for a few days with WD-40,
it only lasts a day at best, so keep applying it. it's just a solvent.
With lug nuts loose on stuck wheel, you need only drive it a few feet.
It how you drive it that's going to work.
Simply driving normal will do nothing.
You need to just use first gear and reverse. No need to go over 10mph.
In drive, hit the throttle hard, then hit the brakes hard.
Repeat in reverse. Several times is normal.
If you don't hear the wheel clunking on the studs a little and still stuck,
you will need to go to a parking lot with more room so you can steer in a circle,
hit the brakes hard so outward pressure is also applied to the tire.
You may have to explain your practicing for a clown show.
The last resort is heating the wheel center to break loose the corrosion bond.
The wheel center should then be sanded clean when it's removed.
Ford's were famous for stuck wheels with steel wheels.
With Alloy wheels, yes aluminum corrodes, and swells the joint tight.
Hope you succeeded.
with the wheel soaked for a few days with WD-40,
it only lasts a day at best, so keep applying it. it's just a solvent.
With lug nuts loose on stuck wheel, you need only drive it a few feet.
It how you drive it that's going to work.
Simply driving normal will do nothing.
You need to just use first gear and reverse. No need to go over 10mph.
In drive, hit the throttle hard, then hit the brakes hard.
Repeat in reverse. Several times is normal.
If you don't hear the wheel clunking on the studs a little and still stuck,
you will need to go to a parking lot with more room so you can steer in a circle,
hit the brakes hard so outward pressure is also applied to the tire.
You may have to explain your practicing for a clown show.
The last resort is heating the wheel center to break loose the corrosion bond.
The wheel center should then be sanded clean when it's removed.
Ford's were famous for stuck wheels with steel wheels.
With Alloy wheels, yes aluminum corrodes, and swells the joint tight.
Hope you succeeded.
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