1997 not starting - fuel pump?

sss

I have a 1997 model caravan that will not start.

It doesn't have much gas in the tank. I added another gallon tonight and some "heet" to remove any moisture if it's causing it not to fire. I've already replaced the fuel filter and I put in a new fuel pump. I've charged the battery. It cranks, but the engine does not fire. Maybe I didn't put the fuel pump in right? If so, what are some common problems with putting fuel pumps in? This is my first time putting in a fuel pump and it seemed easy, but maybe I missed something..

WHich engine??

Do you have spark??

Have you tested the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester??

Have you checked for codes???

Can you hear the fuel pump run???

You should have at least one quater of a tank of gas.

Can you give us more details as to why you changed fuel pump and any other systoms.

Try smacking the top of dash while your trying to start the vehicle and see if that helps.

What was it that lead you to change the fuel pump?

There are several causes for no starts. Tempfixit touched on some. Another common one is loss of a cam or crankshaft sensor signal. This will cut power to the ignition coil pack and fuel pump to disable the engine. The engine will crank all day. Just won't start. Disconnect the coil connector, turn the key to start and check for the ignition pulse using a meter or test light. If it's not there this could be your problem.

> Get your head under the back of the van and have someone turn the key to "on" not start. You should hear the pump turn on for a couple seconds. Repeat to make sure.

> A scanner would be the best way to read your codes. You can check for less specific codes by cycling the key 3 times from off to on then count the number of times the service engine soon light flashes. Each code has two digits. For example code 21 would be flash, flash, pause flash. Codes are seperated by a longer puase. Should end with code 55. Code 12 is normal.

> Making a mistake checking the coil pulse can fry the engine computer (PCM). You need to do it in day light and make dam sure you're on the correct contact on the connector. You might be better off checking for spark at a plug wire by disconnecting one and touching it to the valve cover while cranking the engine. If you see a spark the coil pulse is good. By coil pulse I mean the voltage pulse from the PCM to the coil pack that triggers the coil to supply volatge to individual spark plugs.

You may want to resolder the instrument cluster. There use to be a tuitorial on the subject but I have not found it. Rip might be able to direct you to it. Try a search using "instrument cluster" there are several threads about this issue. The solder connections may look fine to the naked eye but it is best to resolder them anyway.

Hpe this helps

You may want to resolder the instrument cluster. There use to be a tuitorial on the subject but I have not found it. Rip might be able to direct you to it. Try a search using "instrument cluster" there are several threads about this issue. The solder connections may look fine to the naked eye but it is best to resolder them anyway.

Hpe this helps

Not sure I would go there yet but I would sure put it on the list especially if when you smack the dash above the instrument panel as suggested and something comes alive. Here's the tutorial:http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/sets/72157617315319764/ Just click "slideshow" at upper right.

Hey that's great! Now you need to set aside a day and follow the slideshow I posted. Just need a soldering iron and basic tools. FYI - I have read of a chosen few who have smacked the dash and it turned out to be a long term fix. Most of the time though if you don't resolder the solder joints soon the bash eventually doesn't work. The bash might work for you to get you to the point to when you have the time to fix it.