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Fuel or electrical problem


taloka
11-12-2009, 02:29 PM
I have a 96 S-10 Blazer with the 4.3 engine. My blazer will just die while driving down the road. It doesn't sputter, it dies like you turned the key off. Sometimes it will start right back up and sometimes it won't start until it sits for a few hours. It cranks fine but won't start.
So far I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump but still have the problem. I changed the pump because when I'd turn the key on it would jump to 60 psi and then drop to 50 psi. Running it was at 50 psi. I had read on here it needs to be 58 to 60. After $250. and 4 hours I had my new pump in and I'm getting the same pressure reading as before. It starts fine with those reading and runs fine at 50 psi, when it's running. When it dies and won't start I'm still getting the same readings so I assume that it's not a fuel pump problem.
I'm thinking an electrical problem because 2 weeks ago I was driving and it died and wouldn't start and the dome light was on and wouldn't go off. I had to pull a fuse to get the dome light off. After the vehicle started the next day I put the fuse back in and the dome light was fine. The last time it died on me was after changing the fuel pump. I drove it for an hour and it ran fine. The next day I got in and drove 2 blocks and the ABS light came on and it died. It sat for about 4 hours and then started. I'm scared to drive it anywhere now.
Sorry this is so long but I'm stumped.
Does this sound like an electrical problem? What do I check now?
I might mention that it give no codes.
Thanks for your time.

MT-2500
11-12-2009, 03:51 PM
I have a 96 S-10 Blazer with the 4.3 engine. My blazer will just die while driving down the road. It doesn't sputter, it dies like you turned the key off. Sometimes it will start right back up and sometimes it won't start until it sits for a few hours. It cranks fine but won't start.
So far I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump but still have the problem. I changed the pump because when I'd turn the key on it would jump to 60 psi and then drop to 50 psi. Running it was at 50 psi. I had read on here it needs to be 58 to 60. After $250. and 4 hours I had my new pump in and I'm getting the same pressure reading as before. It starts fine with those reading and runs fine at 50 psi, when it's running. When it dies and won't start I'm still getting the same readings so I assume that it's not a fuel pump problem.
I'm thinking an electrical problem because 2 weeks ago I was driving and it died and wouldn't start and the dome light was on and wouldn't go off. I had to pull a fuse to get the dome light off. After the vehicle started the next day I put the fuse back in and the dome light was fine. The last time it died on me was after changing the fuel pump. I drove it for an hour and it ran fine. The next day I got in and drove 2 blocks and the ABS light came on and it died. It sat for about 4 hours and then started. I'm scared to drive it anywhere now.
Sorry this is so long but I'm stumped.
Does this sound like an electrical problem? What do I check now?
I might mention that it give no codes.
Thanks for your time.

Fuel pressure specs on 4.3 code w engine is 60/66 lbs.

You should se around 63 -64 engine running and 65 on engine cranking.

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and drive it and be be watching fuel pressure when it quits.
Does it lose fuel pressure when it quits?
Also check for lose of spark to plugs when it quits.

Post back if losing fuel pressure or spark?
Any check engine lights ?

What brand of fuel pump did you install?

Is it OBD 11 system?

MT-2500
11-12-2009, 04:18 PM
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

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