1999 villager won't start

I have 1999 mercury villager with 245K on it. Owned it for 3 years (180K) and the most serious problem i had to deal with was ignition coil failure about 7 mo. ago. Last week van died on me without any warning signs and was impossible to start. Had it towed to the shop where they replaced fuel pump but still no start. It cranks but wont go. For two days mechanics weren't able to figure it out:banghead: HELP PLEASE!!!!

Have you removed the distributor cap and watched for rotor rotation when engine is cranked??? At 245k it is very possible that timing belt broke, if so remember that this engine is a NON-INTERFERENCE FREE WHEELING engine so no damage to engine. Did they check for any codes???? If you could give a list of things that they did do that would be helpful..

Have you removed the distributor cap and watched for rotor rotation when engine is cranked??? At 245k it is very possible that timing belt broke, if so remember that this engine is a NON-INTERFERENCE FREE WHEELING engine so no damage to engine. Did they check for any codes???? If you could give a list of things that they did do that would be helpful..

Check the relays as well. Does it throw any codes?
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tempfixit, I have a 2000 Villager. Is it also a non-interference engine? At 107,000 I'm getting nervous.

Thanks

Timing belt was replaced last year @ 170K. The engine actually sputters but wont start. They did replace the fuel pump and check all related circuits, replaced ECM with the one they had on hand (same model year), replaced distributor (again!) and begun on checking fuel injectors. So far all to no effect.

Relays are OK. When it was running the last time the MIL light was off. Only code stored was knock sensor which, as i understand, is quite common.

Check the relays as well. Does it throw any codes?
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tempfixit, I have a 2000 Villager. Is it also a non-interference engine? At 107,000 I'm getting nervous.

Thanks


drcoffee the Villager/Quest engines (3.0/3.3) are all NON INTERFERENCE Free Wheelings engines. From what I have learned from another forum is that when Ford and Nissan combined together for these vehicles Ford demanded that the engines would non interference and so it is. I would not worry about the timing belt at the mileage you have as many have 180k on them without any problems.

Here is another forum that is only for the villager/quest.

http://www.villagerquest@yahoogroups.com

Free to enroll and has tons of info with some very educated people on the villagers/quests. including a Ford employee for many years that did troubleshooting for them.

Also I believe the online service manual for these vehicles on top of the main page as a sticky. This is the manual that the tech's use.

Relays are OK. When it was running the last time the MIL light was off. Only code stored was knock sensor which, as i understand, is quite common.

Don't worry about knock sensor as they rarely fail but if you have the code something triggered it.

I assume the distrbiutors installed were know good ones and do not have any brownish dust on the optical sensor. Does it have good spark?? Has the bolt holding the rotor on been checked for tightness as they do come loose and cause problems?? Has the CKPS been tested. Have you had any problems with the ignition switch???

Have they checked to make sure the crankshaft snout has not broken off the crankshaft?? They may have to remove the harmonic balancer to find out. I have not heard about this being a problem on 3.3 but is well known on the 3.0. This usually is caused by overtightening the drive belts and causing excessive pressure on the crank snout.

If all else fails I would take the top timing belt cover off and double check the belt for any teeth missing and has jumped timing.

I'll do some more research, if I find anything I'll post them.

Have they checked the PDC for any corrission or looseness in wiring.

Distributors were good ones. No problems with the ignition switch. What's CKPS?
Definitely tell them about crankshaft.
Thank you for your input tempfixit.

CKPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) It is not a runablility sensor on this engine, it only detects misfires.

Where the distributors used from years 99-02, as they are different the the earlier engines. The distributor (Optical sensor) sends a signal to PCM to turn on/off injectors.

Were the numbers on the PCM (ECU) the same on new/used PCM and original PCM?

Give your mechanics the link for the online factory service manual for these vehicles, it may of use to them.

One of the distributors was out-of-the-box NAPA. Don't know about the numbers.

Has the inertia switch located by the driivers side kick panel been reset and checked for continuity??? Has the fuel filter been changed???

Does the engine run when using starting fluid???

Were you driving when engine just died???

Do you ever have to add coolant to the system?? (WOndering if the water pump is leaking and has ruined the timing belt)

Did they do a fuel pressure test with a fuel pressure tester before replacing fuel pump or just change fuel pump?? Has the fuel pressure regulator been checked???

Has the MAF sensor been checked???

All the elements of the fuel pump circuit have been checked and supposedly its no longer an issue.

Numbers on ECM weren't matching. They will get correct one tomorrow.

I was driving normally all day - no problems. Last trip was about 25 mile hwy drive in moderate to heavy traffic. I parked the car and got out for about 20 min. After that started the engine, backed off parking spot and put it into drive - it died. Tried to crank it nothing. After several more trials engine caught for about 15 sec hesitating around 500RPM and died again. Sequence repeated itself two more times after that battery was too weak. When it was running / trying to run MIL light was off. It illuminated after engine stalled.

I will tell mechanics about your suggestions.
Thank you again.

Hi m001, have you found a fix for your no start issue, please update if possible.

Thanks

You know I had a problem with my 2000 Villager at around 70,000 where it would not start. It turned out to be the ground wire from the battery. The acid leached down the wire under the plastic sheath and corroded it so bad the van would not start. When this happens it caues the computer to throw incoherent codes. You cannot visually check a battery cable. It always looks solid. Give that a try.

The discipline to follow up is sinking in for me! please folloow up with what fixed your problem.

I have no fuel pressure at the test port I have replaced the following partsteps fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and fuel relay. I have replaced timing belt and plugs I have spark no fire.