Hobby Design etch wheels for Ferrari 250TR

Hi all

I've just received the Hobby Design grade up set for the Ferrari 250TR and I must say I'm really pleased with the quantity and quality of parts. We really seem to be getting great value for money nowadays from Hobby Design, Crazy Modeler, KA, et al. I guess it's a sign that the industry is starting to mature, with all these suppliers coming on line.

The only problem I have with this set is the instruction sheet (or lack of). It's pretty hard to see what's intended for some pieces, like part#1 which seems to be a metal strap mounted on the outside front edge of the doors - I don't see that in any reference pictures though. Anyone have an idea about this?

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/Scan10006.jpg


More importantly though is that the wheels spoking is undocumented. The etch is very nice and fine, but no instructions are given on installation sequence and what parts of the Hasegawa kit have to be re-used. I'm assuming the rims have to be "de-spoked" and halved. Has anybody used this etch set for building wheels yet? (I've googled exhaustively, so if I've missed something please bear with me).

Thanks
Graham

The part you are refering to represents the exterior mounted door hinges seen on some (early?) TR's.

If you have a close look at Hasegawa's chrome plated sprue in the kit, you will see what I personally think are more realistic looking hinges than the PE Parts.

Regards, Dan

PS. I have this set but I ended up using the wheel set from KA models instead, It includes turned rims so you dont have to try to modify some plastic ones to suit.

I eventually used the Hobby Design PE spokes on a Fujimi Daytona, utilising the kit rims with plastic spokes removed.
Here are the KA model wheels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v67/obscurepizza/Ferrari%20250TR/trwheels.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v67/obscurepizza/Ferrari%20250TR/trredrearwheel.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v67/obscurepizza/Ferrari%20250TR/trpesets.jpg

I think they really add a lot to the finished model.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v67/obscurepizza/Ferrari%20250TR/DSCN2596.jpg

I don't see that in any reference pictures though. Anyone have an idea about this?


The simple answer is, if you don't see it on your references, don't put it on your build. Don't ever trust a PE set designer to do your homework for you- very often they get stuff wrong.

Treat every part on any PE set as an option, that might or might not work better than the kit part it replaces (or a scratchbuilt one you could create instead).

It helps bring costs down alot that they are based in China and Korea.
Very nice stuff. I have the 250GTO and 250TR Hobby Design kits. The only thing I would suggest is replacing the thick plastic kit glass with clear plastic sheet cut to size. It makes a huge difference and works well with the photoetch frames supplied in the detail kits. The headlight covers would have to be vacuformed, something HD and KA should think about doing.


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo-Strictly 43rd Revival 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 2010

I think they really add a lot to the finished model.

I agree - but not as much as you added to it. That's a lovely build!

Regarding your re-use of the Daytona rims - did you have to cut the rims to ""sandwich" the etch?

I bought the Hasegawa etch wheels as well. I'm thinking of using either the Hobby Design or Hasegawa to improve the wheels on an Academy Ferrari 250LM kit or the Revell Mercedes 300 SLR (722).

The only thing I would suggest is replacing the thick plastic kit glass with clear plastic sheet cut to size. It makes a huge difference and works well with the photoetch frames supplied in the detail kits. The headlight covers would have to be vacuformed, something HD and KA should think about doing.

Interesting that you mention it - the set I received actually has an acetate(?) sheet with the windshield outlined on it, and enough spare material to make the headlight lenses.

I agree - but not as much as you added to it. That's a lovely build!

Regarding your re-use of the Daytona rims - did you have to cut the rims to ""sandwich" the etch?

I bought the Hasegawa etch wheels as well. I'm thinking of using either the Hobby Design or Hasegawa to improve the wheels on an Academy Ferrari 250LM kit or the Revell Mercedes 300 SLR (722).



Interesting that you mention it - the set I received actually has an acetate(?) sheet with the windshield outlined on it, and enough spare material to make the headlight lenses.

My set didn't have acetate. I don't think the TR model pictures have clear sheet, but its hard to tell from the picture. In person its easy to tell. Also you can't make the headlight lenses with flat sheet acetate as the headlight covers are to curved. Thats how on the real cars they judge headlight covers during a concours. Curved is as original, flat is a cheap reproduction.

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo -Strictly 43rd model/photo contest-Chicago April 2010

I agree - but not as much as you added to it. That's a lovely build!

Regarding your re-use of the Daytona rims - did you have to cut the rims to ""sandwich" the etch?



The daytona rims are actually three piece. Front and rear halves with an additional spoked insert that fits between them.

I simply removed the spokes from the front and rear rim halves and replaced the insert with the PE peices... after I formed them into a slight dome shape.

Regards, Dan

Personally i feel the most realistic wheel set will be Hasegawa aftermarket wheel set. The look and size to me is the most accurate. Besides that i too agree that sometimes photoetch parts are not as accurate or nice as they should be.

Ro