1997 Chevy Blazer Won't start

I have a 1997 chevy blazer one day while driving it turned off on me and it did not want to turn on again until i changed the spark plugs. The truck ran for a couple of hours after i changed the spark plugs then it died again.I have now replaced the fuel pump and the ignition switch, the gas is flowing to the engine and im am getting spark at the wires, but the truck wont turn on.If any one can HELP me please do so because i need it.

What happens if you give it a shot of carb spray into the intake? If it starts than you still have a fuel issue.

Ok i sprayed carb cleaner and it started, but its having problems starting and also my gas tank is making a whisle noise.

Check fuel pressure!

What brand pump did you install?

I dont know i got it from a car truck in a junkyard and also it only tells me how much gas i have when its off, but when its on it does not.

could it be that i got a bad fuel pump.

were can i find what the fuel pressure supose to be.

You'd want to be in the neighborhood 0f 58-64. These have a popet type inject and they require a minimun fuel pressure to work. Less than 55-57 psi and it will not start.

I have been starting the truck with carb cleaner and black smoke is coming out the back pipe, but then it dies.

Could it be the fuel injectors

It could be a lot of things. The fact that it starts with carb spray tells me a lot of things are working. The first step would be to check fuel pressure. If pressure is low there is no sense worrying about anything else.

I reaplaced the gas regulator but still nothing.

As they are trying to tell you check and confirm good fuel pressure.

Here is the procedure.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

i can't even start the truck and i am running a little low on money to get fuel pressure tester.

Some places rent or loan fuel pressure testers.
Got better and cheaoer than throwing parts at it.
Do you proper testing first.

I replaced the fuel pump with a new one and the truck turned on but their is gas leaking from where the hoses hook up to the injectors and it is taking in air and i also have gas coming form some of the hoses that go to the fuel pump.

Fix them gas leaks before you have to call 911.

And recheck that fuel pressure.
Post back readings .

The lines to the fuel pump are not leaking anymore and as for the lines to the injectors their is a metal plate that was not put right i fix it and know thier is not one leak. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU WHO HELPED ME ON THIS I APRICIATE IT. THANK YOU

The lines to the fuel pump are not leaking anymore and as for the lines to the injectors their is a metal plate that was not put right i fix it and know thier is not one leak. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU WHO HELPED ME ON THIS I APRICIATE IT. THANK YOU

You are welcome.
Is it starting and running good now?
Have you rechecked the fuel pressure?

ok im back I took the truck in to pull some codes and it said i had a vaccum leak so i go home to check for some leaks but the only thing I could find was the fuel hoses still sucking in air they are not leaking but they are taking in air do you have any idea how to fix that.

ok im back I took the truck in to pull some codes and it said i had a vaccum leak so i go home to check for some leaks but the only thing I could find was the fuel hoses still sucking in air they are not leaking but they are taking in air do you have any idea how to fix that.

I did not know there was a code for vacumn leak.
What was the code no.

Fuel hoses do not suck in air.
The only place you can get air there is it is out of fuel and pumping air.

What are the fuel pressure readings?

I'm curious how a pressurized fuel system can suck in air myself.

its not actualy the hoses, is the gap between the hoses and the spyder that is taking in air it suppose to take in fuel but i guess since their is a gap it is taking in air.It is tighten down the most it can be but it still does it does anyone have any idea how to fix this.

its not actualy the hoses, is the gap between the hoses and the spyder that is taking in air it suppose to take in fuel but i guess since their is a gap it is taking in air.It is tighten down the most it can be but it still does it does anyone have any idea how to fix this.

How are you finding air in system.
Even if system had air in it it will flush out when fuel pump primes up pressure.

Tell us what code no you got.
Give us your fuel pressure readings.

Ok when I spray carb cleaner on that spot it takes it in, and I can hear the part taking in air.

I think he's trying to describe a vacuum leak in between the CPI and the intake plenum. There is an o-ring that surrounds the CPI and seals it against the plenum. I would bet that the CPI has shifted, dropped, or was moved enough for the seal to be jeopardized. It takes about 45 minutes to pull the plenum to replace that seal and the gasket. Figure about 1 1/2 to 2 hours total.

Yes that is it it must have been intalled wrong when we switched the regulator I guess I will have to take it all apart again.

Does anyone know how to reaplace shift solenoid

Column or floor shift? If its floor shift the wires break in the center council under the shift handle all the time.

Does anyone know how to reaplace shift solenoid

Did you get your first problem fixed?


Why are you now wanting to the change shift solenoid.

Yes I got the first problem fixed now I need to reaplace the shift solenoids,and it's floor shifter, one more question why am I able to roll down the power windows even when the key is off before I could only do it when the key was on.

Yes I got the first problem fixed now I need to reaplace the shift solenoids,and it's floor shifter, one more question why am I able to roll down the power windows even when the key is off before I could only do it when the key was on.
What did you do to fix the first problem
?
Solenoids very seldem go out all at one time.
What one is giving problem.?
As in post 30 why do you want to replace shift solenoids?
Are you getting codes for them or what is transmission doing or not doing?

Remember 97 is a bad year on ign switches.
And ign switch can give transmisssion solenoid and shift problems and codes and can affect key on and key off power power to everything

The ignition switch does sound suspicious!

I fixed the first problem by getting a new o-ring. I am getting a code for shift solenoid and I can also feel it sometimes when is shifting. I just reaplaced the ignition switch.And do you have anything on the windows.

I fixed the first problem by getting a new o-ring. I am getting a code for shift solenoid and I can also feel it sometimes when is shifting. I just reaplaced the ignition switch.And do you have anything on the windows.

Whats the code no?

Ok one of my problems is when I am running the truck around 2000 rpm the truck shakes sometimes.

Well fix the engine running problem first.
Any engine or transmission codes or check engine lights?

How is the fuel pressure?
How is the plugs and wires and dist cap and rotor?

Doe it miss on the road under load or does the check engine light flash?

the truck shakes around 49 mph on 2000 rpm do you know what can be the problem.

As in post 37.
Answer questions.

Any check engine lights/codes?

Can you feel engine miss?

When they scanned it for codes they told me that the problems were the IAC valve and the shift solenoids.

When they scanned it for codes they told me that the problems were the IAC valve and the shift solenoids.

What was the code no.
Has anything dbeen done to repair that?
If shahing and missing it may have more problems.
Let us know how it goes.