A Sad Day

hey guys

It’s a sad day today, well at least for me lol. While driving into work after going home for lunch, my 96 escort lx (auto) broke down on the highway. While I was driving it just stopped working and I steered it to the shoulder. I had a tow truck deilvery to my place.

I don’t know why but here’s the symptoms I received earlier today.

-Kind of knocking and squeeking from the passenger side.
The squeeking came from the timing belt and maybe the knocking is from the idler pullery.. not sure

- After the car broke down I saw some smoke coming from the left side of the engine, the timing belt side.

-It had a faint electrical smell.

-After trying to start it, it cranks but wouldn’t start or turn over.

-Battery and all works fine and half tank of gas.

- It’s Déjà vu to when my timing belt first went.


Just to let you guys know I replaced my timing belt a few months back.

Would you guys have any suggestions or advice?


Thanks,

Chris

Sorry to hear of your disappointing situation.
It certainly sounds like a timing belt failure. You would of course check this by having someone crank the engine 'over' and seeing if the camshaft is turning. When you replaced the timing belt, did you also replace the tensioner on the water pump? It also comes with a new water pump.
And of course if the serpentine belt came off it may have gotten jammed to where it distorted the timing belt cover enough to rub against the timing belt - and cause it to fail.
As part of the repair you should make certain the crankshaft position sensor isnt damaged.
Since all of my cars are old (I have 87's through 94's), I plan to and normally do have one more car in the driveway than there are drivers. And normally one of my cars is getting worked on. Today I began replacing the bushings that hold the steering rack assembly, in the 92 LX.

I think that engine is a non-interference engine. It should crank over if the belt breaks .... remove the plugs and try it by hand.

There is a chance you have a dropped valve seat ... stopping the piston travel. I hope not.

I don't know about the '96s but the '94 & '95 have a waterpump that is driven by the timing belt. As the waterpump bearings wear it allows the pulley to begin wobbling on it's axis more & more. (can do by hand) That free-play accelerates wear on the timing belt and allows for extra slack. The waterpump is designed with a special, loose backplate that makes a noticeable clack clack clack clack clack sound when smacked by the fins of the pump. (the wobble allows this) This is the warning that it needs to be replaced and in my case, got it I'd estimate a good 10k before leak or catastrophic failure. Recommend giving the spring-loaded timing belt tensioner some assist prior to locking it into place.

While at it, roll ALL of your pulleys and listen for any unusual noises.

The first time I replaced my timing belt I left the cover off. That way I can inspect the belt, water pump, etc. Also saves a lot of time on subsequent replacements.:2cents:

Just remove the timing cover and check the timing belt all the way around. These timing belts sometimes shear teeth off and let the timing get so far off that the vehicle won't run, but the belt is still intact. If it is a broken timing belt the Escort engines are non interference engines so all you have to do is line up the timing marks and put another belt on it.

hey guys..yea a mechanic changed the timing belt as well as the tensioner and waterpump, but i'm starting to think he did a crap job on my car and now i dont think he is in business anymore..

I marked a spot of the timing belt with a pen..when i cranked it moved..how would i check the camshaft? where is the camshaft sensor located?

Just remove the timing cover and check the timing belt all the way around. These timing belts sometimes shear teeth off and let the timing get so far off that the vehicle won't run, but the belt is still intact. If it is a broken timing belt the Escort engines are non interference engines so all you have to do is line up the timing marks and put another belt on it.


i think its behind the tensioner. how would i remove the timing belt cover?..

Remove the tensioner by turning the bolt counter-clockwise. The Haynes manuals are very detailed and worth the buy on the Escorts.

Remove the tensioner by turning the bolt counter-clockwise. The Haynes manuals are very detailed and worth the buy on the Escorts.

so once i remove the tensioner i can get the timing belt case off correct?..then i can see whats going on ?..when taking out the
tensioner i dont have to drop the engine or nothing that serious rite?

For the '94s and '95s you can remove the t-belt cover without removing the mount and moving the engine. But I have no idea regarding the '96s. Made a number of changes for that year and above.

For the '94s and '95s you can remove the t-belt cover without removing the mount and moving the engine. But I have no idea regarding the '96s. Made a number of changes for that year and above.


i'm pretty sure you can..but just in case i'll check the haynes manuel....

If you want to see if the cam is moving just have someone watch through the oil fill hole to watch for moving parts.

This is a non-interference engine... a simple timing belt replacement should have this car back on the road if it isn't already. You said that mechanic did a crap job... so I guess it is running again but not running well? What makes you think its a crap job?

If you want to see if the cam is moving just have someone watch through the oil fill hole to watch for moving parts.

This is a non-interference engine... a simple timing belt replacement should have this car back on the road if it isn't already. You said that mechanic did a crap job... so I guess it is running again but not running well? What makes you think its a crap job?

Hey guys..

Just came back from a trip. I think he did a crap job because, first of all the timing belt isnt supposed to go within a few months and ever since i took it to that guy, i've been hearing wierd sounds. I have a feeling he put in crappy parts when i told him to put in new parts. Lastly he is not in business any more and that is good, so other people wouldnt get ripped off.

well be taking the car in to the mechanic tomorrow. Wish me luck!! lol

Please note that some mechanics will take offense if you arrive dumping on another. Just give them a short and relevant background. Avoid mentioning the other mechanic and keep any expressed opinions to a minimal. Just stick to the facts.

hey guys still waiting for the mechanic to let me know..hopefully today we'll have a final result

hey guys..after one week of wait..i finally got my car back..they replaced my belt and the idler puller for $250..i saw how they did it i could have done it myself and save on the labor lol..but just happy my cars back..

hey guys..i want to know that after installing the timing belt everything is fine. My car starts up fine, so I don’t think anything was affected by the belt snapping. Could there be any problem that I don’t know about and wouldn’t be seen?
It accelerates slow and sluggish but that might still be due to my sliding brake mounts being seized.

Seized slide mounts doesn't usually noticeably affect acceleration unless you decelerate unusually fast when let up off the accelerator; or don't roll at all on hills when in neutral; or if you can't roll those wheels by hand when lifted off the ground.

Long time ago I didn't secure my damper bolt with enough torque which after several months, let the bolt back off. Unbeknownst to me, the play allowed the crank shaft key to carve out a notch in the damper which effectively advanced my timing. Got so much of a power boost it was like having turbo.

Once the notch-wear got wide enough to cause cold-starts stalls and even later, cause a huge power loss, (talking 4000rpm just to get up a slight incline,) with some help I discovered the problem and got it resolved.

Once repaired the car seemed sluggish and slow but really that was just my timing having been returned to normal.

Bottom line is, either your fuel is old, your computer is still relearning, your timing is off by a tooth, or your timing was advanced before. I'd give it two tank fulls (presumably two weeks) before I'd look into it further. (unless it's really just that bad) You could also run a compression test just for peace of mind.

Seized slide mounts doesn't usually noticeably affect acceleration unless you decelerate unusually fast when let up off the accelerator; or don't roll at all on hills when in neutral; or if you can't roll those wheels by hand when lifted off the ground.

Long time ago I didn't secure my damper bolt with enough torque which after several months, let the bolt back off. Unbeknownst to me, the play allowed the crank shaft key to carve out a notch in the damper which effectively advanced my timing. Got so much of a power boost it was like having turbo.

Once the notch-wear got wide enough to cause cold-starts stalls and even later, cause a huge power loss, (talking 4000rpm just to get up a slight incline,) with some help I discovered the problem and got it resolved.

Once repaired the car seemed sluggish and slow but really that was just my timing having been returned to normal.

Bottom line is, either your fuel is old, your computer is still relearning, your timing is off by a tooth, or your timing was advanced before. I'd give it two tank fulls (presumably two weeks) before I'd look into it further. (unless it's really just that bad) You could also run a compression test just for peace of mind.

Thanks yea..i'll leave it for 2 weeks and see how it goes. I'll reset the computer let me just confirm. To reset the computer you have to disconnect the negative then press the brake at least 10 times rite?
Maybe it could be my alternator,i do have to replace it and i've seen the battery symbal lite up a couple times. Could that be a problem to?