Timing chain
moliva1568
10-16-2009, 11:37 AM
i went to carquest to get a timing chain set for pontiac 7.5L 455 (catalina). they wanted $121 for the set, chain and gears. i knew this sounded weird so i declined. on the rock auto website they have sets starting at $22. summit has them starting at like $35. i don't need a performance type set. just a plain one which will last a good amount of time. i see some state "original true roller" and have different types of sprocket material. some say heavy duty and others say double roller. how do i choose? keep in mind that i'm no mechanic so i need something that i won't have to worry about other than at mileage interval checks. also, rock auto has my engine as W or Y. the 5th vin # is a y. should i look under Y parts? what does it matter.
thank you
thank you
MagicRat
10-16-2009, 10:41 PM
Ah, I love reading about the Carwash Catalina :)
I have used basic, cheapie timing sets with no problem. The only thing to avoid are Nylon or nylon-coated gears. Nylon is used to reduce gear noise, but is not always durable in the long run.
All-steel gears are more reliable and, to my ear, make no more noise than the nylon ones.
Most stock-style timing sets use a Hy-Vo chain, which look a bit like a cogged belt made form steel, like this (click here (http://info.rockauto.com/Cloyes/DetailRemote.html?C-3007K.jpg)). They work well, and usually last the life of the engine.
The 'roller' chains look like a double row of bicycle-type or motorcycle-type drive chain. In theory, they provide more accurate valve timing but are more expansive than the Hy-Vo type.
However, many cheaper roller chains are not 'true' roller, in that the cog bars do not have a rolling collar on them and are no better than, and sometimes worse than the Hy-Vo type.
Imo just get a basic Hy-Vo type with all-steel gears and you will be fine. Chances are, the W or Y block will take the same set.
BTW, why do you want to change the set? These chains will last at least 100,000 miles and usually, 200,000++++ miles.
EDIT: I checked out rockauto, and the W and Y blocks both use the same cheaper chains, so either listing will do.
Either the Cloyes set ($22) or the Sealed Power set ($30) will do.
The Cloyes is all steel according to the pic, although $22 is alarmingly cheap for a timing set.
There is no pic for the Sealed Power one. If it's all-steel too, it may be a better quality set, at least judging by the price. Call them and see, if possible.
I have used basic, cheapie timing sets with no problem. The only thing to avoid are Nylon or nylon-coated gears. Nylon is used to reduce gear noise, but is not always durable in the long run.
All-steel gears are more reliable and, to my ear, make no more noise than the nylon ones.
Most stock-style timing sets use a Hy-Vo chain, which look a bit like a cogged belt made form steel, like this (click here (http://info.rockauto.com/Cloyes/DetailRemote.html?C-3007K.jpg)). They work well, and usually last the life of the engine.
The 'roller' chains look like a double row of bicycle-type or motorcycle-type drive chain. In theory, they provide more accurate valve timing but are more expansive than the Hy-Vo type.
However, many cheaper roller chains are not 'true' roller, in that the cog bars do not have a rolling collar on them and are no better than, and sometimes worse than the Hy-Vo type.
Imo just get a basic Hy-Vo type with all-steel gears and you will be fine. Chances are, the W or Y block will take the same set.
BTW, why do you want to change the set? These chains will last at least 100,000 miles and usually, 200,000++++ miles.
EDIT: I checked out rockauto, and the W and Y blocks both use the same cheaper chains, so either listing will do.
Either the Cloyes set ($22) or the Sealed Power set ($30) will do.
The Cloyes is all steel according to the pic, although $22 is alarmingly cheap for a timing set.
There is no pic for the Sealed Power one. If it's all-steel too, it may be a better quality set, at least judging by the price. Call them and see, if possible.
moliva1568
10-16-2009, 11:12 PM
the waterpump has to be changed and it's my understanding that the chain is right behind it so it might as well be changed too. preventative maintanence??
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MagicRat
10-16-2009, 11:23 PM
the waterpump has to be changed and it's my understanding that the chain is right behind it so it might as well be changed too. preventative maintanence??
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Yes, good idea. I do the same thing.
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Yes, good idea. I do the same thing.
moliva1568
10-16-2009, 11:27 PM
ok thanks
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moliva1568
10-20-2009, 11:25 PM
the timing chain should arrive tomorrow and i was thinking about giving it a go myself to save some money. as a serious amateur, do you advise against it? if i go for it, any tips or specific tools i should have? thanks
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moliva1568
10-22-2009, 03:28 PM
i plan on having my cousin assist me with the timing chain and waterpump tomorrow. I did not get a timing chain cover gasket set. is it absolutely necessary to have that or will a silicone gasket suffice? i'm worried the local auto parts store won't have it in stock but i don't want to do a half ass job and risk damage either.
thanks
thanks
MagicRat
10-22-2009, 04:42 PM
i plan on having my cousin assist me with the timing chain and waterpump tomorrow. I did not get a timing chain cover gasket set. is it absolutely necessary to have that or will a silicone gasket suffice? i'm worried the local auto parts store won't have it in stock but i don't want to do a half ass job and risk damage either.
thanks
Did you get the timing chain set? Sometimes they come with a gasket.
It's best to use a real gasket for the timing chain cover for 2 reasons.
1. Sometimes a silicone bead can shed bits of extruded silicone inside the engine. These bits may eventually partially block the oil pick-up screen.
2. Sometimes the silicone bead can lose adhesion and squirm around a bit, allowing oil to start leaking. This is most prevalent on oil-sealing gaskets, imo.
thanks
Did you get the timing chain set? Sometimes they come with a gasket.
It's best to use a real gasket for the timing chain cover for 2 reasons.
1. Sometimes a silicone bead can shed bits of extruded silicone inside the engine. These bits may eventually partially block the oil pick-up screen.
2. Sometimes the silicone bead can lose adhesion and squirm around a bit, allowing oil to start leaking. This is most prevalent on oil-sealing gaskets, imo.
moliva1568
10-22-2009, 09:49 PM
the set came but without any gasket. luckily, the auto parts store has it so i'll just pick one up. thanks
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