Impact Wrench/Torque Guns

Hi,

This past weekend I was flushing my brake fluid and one of the bleeder screw on my 2002 grand prix gtp was rusted and stripped out. I enlarged the hole of the bleeder screw by drilling and then tried to take out the bleeder screw with an extractor screw. The extractor screw broke. Luckily, I was able drill a little bit more and the broken extractor screw came out. I tried with a larger extractor screw and it also broke. Unfortunately this time it's stuck in there pretty good. I tried drilling, but to no avail.

I am contemplating several options. I guess I have turned the bleeder screw enough that brake fluid is leaking from this bleeder screw. I still have brakes and the pedal is not soft, but I realized I need to get it fixed. A new caliber from the auto stores here would run me about 50 dollars. The problem is that my caliber bolts are on so tight, I can't take them off. I used liquid wrench and wd-40, but it hasn't helped. I'ved broken two sockets trying to take them off. If I take it to Midas, they'll charge about $118 for labor. Thus, I was wondering if anyone of you think a impact wrench might help? My brother in law did my brakes two years ago using a torque gun. I have been looking online and I am interested in getting a cordless impact wrench that produces about 320-325 ft/pound of torque.

Thanks

which set of bolts are you taking off? You do no have to remove the caliper mounting bracket to replace the caliper. The Caliper bolts 13mm?? should not be that tight.

I agree with troy, the torque specs on the caliper mounting bolts are not very tight.

BTW, dont drive it leaking brake fluid. You do know brake fluid will dissolve paint right off your car.

Correct, just the caliper bolts. Not the mounting bolt. For whatever reason I've cracked two sockets trying to get them off. For sure 14mm was what I used and it cracked.

Correct, just the caliper bolts. Not the mounting bolt. For whatever reason I've cracked two sockets trying to get them off. For sure 14mm was what I used and it cracked.

Cheapo sockets will crack like an egg.
Good, name-brand sockets like Craftsman, Husky etc will snap the bolt right off before they crack.
use a wire brush on the rusty bolt to clean it off, then hit them with some penetrating lube and let it soak for a bit. Then tap them with a hammer before wrenching. Sometimes the vibration will help loosen the bolt.

= Then tap them with a hammer before wrenching. Sometimes the vibration will help loosen the bolt.

I was just going to say that but I would wouldn't tap I would let loose (with common sense of course so you don't bust anything.) and with a punch or something similar so you don't mushroom over the bolt head.

Go out and get a impact socket, I know that Sears sells the separately. I had to do that when I could not get the mounting screws out of a starter on a chevy stationwaggon.

wait! 14mm? is this the backs or the fronts? I could have swore the fronts were 15mm for both bridge and caliper bolts. If I remember correctly the backs are 14mm for the bridge bolts and 13mm for the caliper slide bolts. Bud don't quote me on that.

I thought that the caliper mounting bracket bolts were 15mm.

I was trying to take out the left rear caliper bolts and for my car the rear bolts are 14mm. The front ones are 15mm. I called around the local mechanic shop here, but they were going to charge me about 50 bucks so I did purchase myself a cordless impact wrench. I was deciding between a Dewalt 18 volt or a Craftsman 20 volt. Both produced a maximum toruqe of 300 ft/lb. From my research online most people preferred the Dewalt, but in the end I chose the Craftsman because it has varible speed control while the Dewalt was all at one speed. After a little struggle, I finally got them off with my impact wrench. I'm impressed at how tight these bolts are in. Apparently, from alldatadiy.com the rear caliper bolts were only supposed to be tighten to 32 ft/lb, but whoever last did my brakes must have used a torque gun to tighten my caliper bolts.

Thanks to all who responded to my post.

Well what happens sometimes is the brakes get hot from a dragging caliper, then the cool off, then hot again, and cool off, over and over again along with rust pretty much siezes them together. Happened on my GP. When I went and finally replaced them I climbed under and had to use all my strength to break them loose. Got them to go, but have a nice scar on my right arm to show for it, the backing plate got me.

Luckily, I was able drill a little bit more and the broken extractor screw came out. I tried with a larger extractor screw and it also broke. Unfortunately this time it's stuck in there pretty good. I tried drilling, but to no avail.When you finally get the caliper bolts out, you only have one option, replace the caliper! I would not even think of driving a car with a leaking bleed screw! BTW, when (if) you replace the caliper(s) you should get new mounting bolts, then apply one drop of Locktite (Blue) to the threads before torquing to specs!