Won't start

But it's not engine related. The damned key has failed, I can't even turn the cylinder, as the key is just so worn down.

How do I get the key replaced? I can't find any local GM dealers. Besides, how much is this going to run me? I'm already getting new chrome valve covers this monday to install (as my car is a show car now), and I can't even get inside to pop the hood.

But it's not engine related. The damned key has failed, I can't even turn the cylinder, as the key is just so worn down.

How do I get the key replaced? I can't find any local GM dealers. Besides, how much is this going to run me? I'm already getting new chrome valve covers this monday to install (as my car is a show car now), and I can't even get inside to pop the hood.

Call a local locksmith if he has the equipment to make a key for your car. I'm a locksmith myself so your car uses basic equipment with the most primitive of chips they make. But just to make sure, is your key "naked" or does it have any black plastic on it? Technically, if for some reason you had to and if your car indeed does have the chip, you could have a locksmith make the plain "naked" key and then to start the car you'd have to hold your old key with the chip close to the ignition and it would start..but thats only temporary if you had to do it that way.

So you don't necessarily need to go to a dealership "which i'm sure is more expensive." I'd have to say it'd run you maybe $30-50 tops depending on what the guy charges for service calls and whatnot.

If the locksmith is good, he would be able to tell which cuts the key originally had before it was worn down and make it on the spot without jimmying the door open and taking apart the ignition or door lock for the pin depths.

If he does end up jimmying the door open..make sure he doesn't scratch your door/pillar when wiggling the metal pole to open the door..I've seen a lot of cars (mainly ones that've been towed by impatient tow truck drivers) with scratched up pillars and even holes in door gaskets out of carelessness and i know your car is gunna be in car shows so you wouldn't want that to happen.

And one more thing you could possibly try to just get in the car..spray some WD40 into the door lock and wiggle the key around while trying to turn it. The WD40 just be enough to help coax the pins to line up.

Good luck.

Oh, no no. This isn't the door key, this is the ignition key, and it's a VATS II system, has the resistor on it..

I can get into the car, I just can't start it. Yes, I said earlier I couldn't get in to pop the hood, but that's what happens when you have too much captain morgan. ;) (I drank AFTER I couldn't get the car started)..

So yea, I need a new VATSII enabled ignition key.

Oh, no no. This isn't the door key, this is the ignition key, and it's a VATS II system, has the resistor on it..

I can get into the car, I just can't start it. Yes, I said earlier I couldn't get in to pop the hood, but that's what happens when you have too much captain morgan. ;) (I drank AFTER I couldn't get the car started)..

So yea, I need a new VATSII enabled ignition key.

Lol! :iceslolan. So the key won;t turn the ignition but turns in the door lock?

Lol! :iceslolan. So the key won;t turn the ignition but turns in the door lock?
Two different keys. Door key has a rounded handle, while the ignition key has a square key and has a rubber grip..

Two different keys. Door key has a rounded handle, while the ignition key has a square key and has a rubber grip..

Ok yeah thats what i wanted to know. Like i said see if theres any local locksmiths around that can do it, you dont need to bring it to a dealer necessarily.

There is a chance that your local GM dealer might be able to help. They can go back into the early 90s with their systems, and as long as your ignition lock cylinder is original, they might be able to code you a key using your car's VIN. Bring your title with you to prove ownership.

There is a chance that your local GM dealer might be able to help. They can go back into the early 90s with their systems, and as long as your ignition lock cylinder is original, they might be able to code you a key using your car's VIN. Bring your title with you to prove ownership.
Eh, will it matter if the title is in my fathers name? When I bought the car 5 years ago I couldn't afford the title or insurance as I used ALL the money to buy it. Now these days I can, but we never bothered to transfer the title.

I would try all they can say is no but I think the car is old enough they won't bother asking.

But it's not engine related. The damned key has failed, I can't even turn the cylinder, as the key is just so worn down.

How do I get the key replaced? I can't find any local GM dealers. Besides, how much is this going to run me? I'm already getting new chrome valve covers this monday to install (as my car is a show car now), and I can't even get inside to pop the hood.

if you measure the key resistance and with the year you can get the correct key...then it is possible to have a lock smith cut that key so that it will work...first get a non security [cheap] key to see if it will work in the ignition cylinder,,then if that works have the expensive resistor key cut to it..

you always must have a back up key...
you can have the security system bypassed then just a cheap key will work,,,,basicly you install a resistor that matches the key needed and install in the vehicle circuit to trick out the security start circuit...

I managed to start it, as long as the key is forced at an angle...

I'm still doing valve covers first. I still want to get new GM official keys. Something about the "real deal" that makes me willing to spend for real keys, not copys.

I managed to start it, as long as the key is forced at an angle...

I'm still doing valve covers first. I still want to get new GM official keys. Something about the "real deal" that makes me willing to spend for real keys, not copys.

the last time I checked this key for my 96 would cost 20.00....that was several years ago...this is why the security resistor is bypassed...key is to expensive...

the lock cylinder gets damaged when using a worn key...If you get the new oem keys I would be interested in the cost..

The last time I got VATS keys they were $9 apiece, but that was from a local locksmith. The VATS issue is easy to solve. Just measure the resistor pellet in the key bow and match it at the locksmith. The dealers are charging $30 for the same thing.

A good locksmith will be able to cut your key from code with proof of ownership, but that will cost more. A dealership will be even more. Worse than that, if the cylinder is badly worn, the new key may not fit well enough to unlock it either.

The last time I got VATS keys they were $9 apiece, but that was from a local locksmith. The VATS issue is easy to solve. Just measure the resistor pellet in the key bow and match it at the locksmith. The dealers are charging $30 for the same thing.

A good locksmith will be able to cut your key from code with proof of ownership, but that will cost more. A dealership will be even more. Worse than that, if the cylinder is badly worn, the new key may not fit well enough to unlock it either.


thanks for that info to get the vats key cheaper at the lock smith

Gah, didn't see these replies in time. I went to Classic Chevrolet in Altamonte Springs Florida.

They took my registration, and my drivers license (and called me by my fathers name, lol), and took the VIN from the registration. Went back with the old key to get the VATSII code from the key, returned the key to me, and made me a new key by whats in their database.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/oldnewkey.jpg

My god, how did the old key even work? They look nearly completely different!

And yes, they charged me $25.99 for the key..

Gah, didn't see these replies in time. I went to Classic Chevrolet in Altamonte Springs Florida.

They took my registration, and my drivers license (and called me by my fathers name, lol), and took the VIN from the registration. Went back with the old key to get the VATSII code from the key, returned the key to me, and made me a new key by whats in their database.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/oldnewkey.jpg

My god, how did the old key even work? They look nearly completely different!

And yes, they charged me $25.99 for the key..


go to the lock smith and get the back up key ...this will prevent alot of hassle should the key get damaged/lost....sometimes the resistor falls out..

Well i think i can supply a reason for how the old key worked. Its a little obvious but one reason is the key and the pins in the ignition wore down together but over time, the key wore down faster and it came to a point where they didn't match up. Keys "adapt" to their application so to say. And also there is a little bit of "play" between the depths of the cuts in the key and the height of the pins so this also contributed to how long you were able to last with a key so different from its original specs.

wow i think this may be what happened to my car, but the title isnt in my name. its in the guy who i bought it from name i just never bothered to get it notarized and switched over my name..would i be able to just get another key made without the locksmith or dealership?

Ace Hardware also makes copies of GM keys including these types. If you ever need another copy I'd suggest at least checking there or call in first and make sure that your location does it.

I have never gotten a copy made for those types (although I know my location does it) but I have made copies for door keys before and they have never asked me any questions.