1989 Bronco
2percent
10-07-2009, 07:57 PM
I just picked up this fullsize bronco runs good and all but there are some issues i need help diagnosing.
1) my battery keeps dying and alternator is good(probably bad battery) but it seems something is pulling juice from it while it sits
2)my temp gauge doesnt work
3) my battery gauge doesnt work
4) my oil pressure guage jumps alot and even goes to zero unless I am giving it gas
5)rear window doesnt work
6) Steering is very loose
7) cant seem to get it transfer case 4low or neutral but 4hi works
I searched on here but couldnt really find alot of info so any would be helpful and I will update as I learn and do more with the truck
1) my battery keeps dying and alternator is good(probably bad battery) but it seems something is pulling juice from it while it sits
2)my temp gauge doesnt work
3) my battery gauge doesnt work
4) my oil pressure guage jumps alot and even goes to zero unless I am giving it gas
5)rear window doesnt work
6) Steering is very loose
7) cant seem to get it transfer case 4low or neutral but 4hi works
I searched on here but couldnt really find alot of info so any would be helpful and I will update as I learn and do more with the truck
discnik
10-08-2009, 01:22 AM
1. Take your battery to a parts house and see if they can load test it for you.
To determine if there is a draw on the battery, remove the negative cable from the negative post on the battery.
Hook up a test light between the cable and the battery post.
This is with the ignition off.
Make sure all doors are closed and and pull the engine compartment lamp.
If the test light is lit you have a parasitic draw.
Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out.
Make sure all doors are closed after pulling the fuse to check the light.
If you leave a door open the light will stay lit because the dome light circuit is putting a draw on the battery.
When the test light goes out you have found the circuit causing the draw.
Then the real fun begins, trying to find out what and where it is shorted.
If you pull all the fuses one at a time and the light still has not gone out you either have more than one circuit causing the draw or it is in a circuit that does not have a fuse.
If you go to AutoZone.com there is a repair reference and component location area that can help you test and replace components.
To determine if there is a draw on the battery, remove the negative cable from the negative post on the battery.
Hook up a test light between the cable and the battery post.
This is with the ignition off.
Make sure all doors are closed and and pull the engine compartment lamp.
If the test light is lit you have a parasitic draw.
Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out.
Make sure all doors are closed after pulling the fuse to check the light.
If you leave a door open the light will stay lit because the dome light circuit is putting a draw on the battery.
When the test light goes out you have found the circuit causing the draw.
Then the real fun begins, trying to find out what and where it is shorted.
If you pull all the fuses one at a time and the light still has not gone out you either have more than one circuit causing the draw or it is in a circuit that does not have a fuse.
If you go to AutoZone.com there is a repair reference and component location area that can help you test and replace components.
rhandwor
10-09-2009, 09:07 AM
After the battery is charged pull the negative cable. Use a large 12 volt test light. Touch the negative terminal with one end and the cable with the other end. If the light lights you have a drain on the battery. If it has under dash lights pull this fuse and keep checking. Pull one fuse at a time until the light goes out. A fuel pump relay or other relay can also stick. External voltage regulators unplug and test. Alternators can also have a drain. The under dash lights use a DVOM and put it on amps. Hold this between the cable and terminal after the lights shut off check for a large drain.
2percent
10-16-2009, 10:20 PM
MORE TROUBLES
Ok my battery was bad and one of my fusible links was rotted away. So I replaced all these and accidentally arced the battery. Stupid me I know and i work on cars daily lol. but it happened. The truck didnt want to run after that at all. No fuel so shoot some ether in it and it fired. So I switched the fuel pump relay fired right up then died. I then replaced the starter solenoid switch now i get no power anywhere. Power from the battery to the solenoid then nothing on 2 different solenoids neither works. Any help here guys?
Ok my battery was bad and one of my fusible links was rotted away. So I replaced all these and accidentally arced the battery. Stupid me I know and i work on cars daily lol. but it happened. The truck didnt want to run after that at all. No fuel so shoot some ether in it and it fired. So I switched the fuel pump relay fired right up then died. I then replaced the starter solenoid switch now i get no power anywhere. Power from the battery to the solenoid then nothing on 2 different solenoids neither works. Any help here guys?
MagicRat
10-17-2009, 12:31 AM
How did you arc the battery? Terminal to terminal, or was it positive terminal to chassis ground?
I think its time to get a test light and probe the fuse panel power.
I think its time to get a test light and probe the fuse panel power.
2percent
10-18-2009, 02:31 PM
How did you arc the battery? Terminal to terminal, or was it positive terminal to chassis ground?
I think its time to get a test light and probe the fuse panel power.
positive terminal to chassis ground negative to the switch. The previous owner has hacked the wiring a little and i fixed some of the electric tape patch job he did. My fuel pump works but my relay is acting up. it seems to make the pump run at all times even with engine off. I let it sit overnight it fired right up ran for about 3 seconds and died. My check engine light stays on even with key off and out. All the fuses seem good. I tried to run my scanner on it but it wont read without the truck being warm. Im tryin to figure it all out but working 12 hour days doesnt leave alot of time.
I cant figure it out ran like a champ until the battery went dead and I replaced it. Hooked it up backwards(still not sure how or why I did it) and hasnt ran for more than 3 seconds since. I saw sparks and heard clicking.
I its getting spark and fuel so i am thinking it has to be electrical. Which is what i hate the most.
I think its time to get a test light and probe the fuse panel power.
positive terminal to chassis ground negative to the switch. The previous owner has hacked the wiring a little and i fixed some of the electric tape patch job he did. My fuel pump works but my relay is acting up. it seems to make the pump run at all times even with engine off. I let it sit overnight it fired right up ran for about 3 seconds and died. My check engine light stays on even with key off and out. All the fuses seem good. I tried to run my scanner on it but it wont read without the truck being warm. Im tryin to figure it all out but working 12 hour days doesnt leave alot of time.
I cant figure it out ran like a champ until the battery went dead and I replaced it. Hooked it up backwards(still not sure how or why I did it) and hasnt ran for more than 3 seconds since. I saw sparks and heard clicking.
I its getting spark and fuel so i am thinking it has to be electrical. Which is what i hate the most.
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