Timing Chain and sprockets replacement

1992 S10 Blazer, 4x4, 4.3L, TBI, 222,223 miles (today!)

I'm about to replace the timing chain and sprockets and would like to make sure I have everything I would need. I have:

New timing chain and sprocket set
Felpro gasket set
Harmonic balancer puller
Cam sprocket puller
Jaw puller (possibly for crank sprocket)

I believe I'll need a torch for the crank sprocket. I can't seem to find a puller for it.

What is the best way to get the crank sprocket off? Are there any trick to doing this job? Any other tools? Anything else at all?

All advice is welcome, whether newbie or advanced.

Thank you.

1992 S10 Blazer, 4x4, 4.3L, TBI, 222,223 miles (today!)

I'm about to replace the timing chain and sprockets and would like to make sure I have everything I would need. I have:

New timing chain and sprocket set
Felpro gasket set
Harmonic balancer puller
Cam sprocket puller
Jaw puller (possibly for crank sprocket)

I believe I'll need a torch for the crank sprocket. I can't seem to find a puller for it.

What is the best way to get the crank sprocket off? Are there any trick to doing this job? Any other tools? Anything else at all?

All advice is welcome, whether newbie or advanced.

Thank you.
Sometimes a pry bar behind it will pop it off.
Or.
Auto zone and a lot of parts places will loan or rent tools.

Sometimes a pry bar behind it will pop it off.
Or.
Auto zone and a lot of parts places will loan or rent tools.

I'll have to find a pry bar. Harbor Freight I suppose. All the loaner tools I could find aren't for the crank sprocket.

I'll have to find a pry bar. Harbor Freight I suppose. All the loaner tools I could find aren't for the crank sprocket.

2 pry bars.
One on each side may do it.
On puller They take a 2 jaw outside puller.

So I replaced the timing chain and sprockets. I had to end up using the standard set from the auto parts store because the better Edelbrock set I wanted to use wouldn't work. Edelbrock #7801. The cam shaft sprocket doesn't fit correctly. The standard set broke today. So I have to get in there again and re-replace the timing set. What do you suggest I get to put in there? Edelbrock something? Comp? OEM dealer? What is the best?

So I replaced the timing chain and sprockets. I had to end up using the standard set from the auto parts store because the better Edelbrock set I wanted to use wouldn't work. Edelbrock #7801. The cam shaft sprocket doesn't fit correctly. The standard set broke today. So I have to get in there again and re-replace the timing set. What do you suggest I get to put in there? Edelbrock something? Comp? OEM dealer? What is the best?

If stock cam and engine and replacement from parts store broke you better go to the dealer and get a OEM setup.
What brand parts was it you put in there?

How many miles on engine and what happened to the origional set?
Post back what part broke on replacement chain and gear set.

223,000 miles on the engine. I'm not sure what exactly broke, but the distributor is still in one piece so I know it has to be the chain and sprockets. The brand I believe was SAE. Pretty much Advance Auto's general part line. I'm thinking of taking it in to get worked on. I have school right now and I'm graduating in December. I don't have time to deal with this. Money is tight also, but I don't know whether I should take it to the shop I've been using or to the dealer. I'd feel safer at the dealer, considering Chevy is what they do. On the other hand, I hate taking it in if I can do it myself. Advice?

I need advice on replacing the crank sprocket. I can get it on there with some heat and light tapping, but how do I know the exact placement on the shaft? I can eyeball it, but I want to be exact so I don't have any more problems with it. Should the harmonic balancer rest right up against the sprocket or...?? Ideas?

It has to be centered with the key and key way.
Yes the balancer should fit tight against sprocked.
Have you found out what broke on the replacement?

I haven't cracked open the cover again to see what happened. I'm doing that work on Tuesday, so I'll have to get back to you on that. How can I be sure that I get the balancer and sprocket placed correctly on the shaft? Can you go through the process for that? I don't want to take any chances since I'm having to do this again.

I haven't cracked open the cover again to see what happened. I'm doing that work on Tuesday, so I'll have to get back to you on that. How can I be sure that I get the balancer and sprocket placed correctly on the shaft? Can you go through the process for that? I don't want to take any chances since I'm having to do this again.

They are keyed just line up key and drive on.
They make a balancer install tool.
If it is giving that much problems.
It would be best if you get a good repair manual or a all data online sub.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

It's probably better that you didn't install the Edelbrock setup. It's a double-row roller chain, which is far weaker than the inverted link chains used in stock setups. The only advantage to them is lighter weight. Check any industrial power transmission reference and you'll see how much more power the inverted link chains can transmit.

If the chain actually broke, make sure the chain wasn't defective (use a Cloyes 3039 or 3064 chain set) and make sure the cam is not snapped and balance shaft is properly timed (if equipped). Pacific rim imports are highly suspect.

So I opened it up today. I had pressed the balancer on too far which of course caused the crank sprocket to line up behind the crank sprocket. Shredded the teeth except for two in the crank sprocket. So, doing it over again. Found all the teeth and chain pieces without taking off the oil pan, so that's good.

So I opened it up today. I had pressed the balancer on too far which of course caused the crank sprocket to line up behind the crank sprocket. Shredded the teeth except for two in the crank sprocket. So, doing it over again. Found all the teeth and chain pieces without taking off the oil pan, so that's good.
Thanks for posting back what you found.
You need to.
Get a good factory repair manual or a All Data online sub.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
They both have proper instructions on installing the chains and gears.
Good Luck

I have the factory manual for my car. it does not have detailed instructions for installing the crank gear. At least, I couldn't find it in the book. But I know what I have to do now. I also have to get my hands on a timing cover. The chain killed it.

Well, finished replacing the chain and sprockets again today. Started the truck and it is running rough. From looking at it, I'm thinking I might be 180˚ out on the distributor. What is a good way to tell if you're 180˚ out? The timing light, on cylinder #1 of course, lights up with a timing mark, but could it still be 180˚ out?

Also, I'm worried about doing what I did the first time, and that was tightening the harmonic balancer too tight causing the crank sprocket to shift, busting the chain and teeth. I talked to a dealership today and they said the balancer bolt should be 75 ft lbs, so I tightened until I got a click for 75 ft lbs. It all looks correct. Does that sound right to you guys?

Well, finished replacing the chain and sprockets again today. Started the truck and it is running rough. From looking at it, I'm thinking I might be 180˚ out on the distributor. What is a good way to tell if you're 180˚ out? The timing light, on cylinder #1 of course, lights up with a timing mark, but could it still be 180˚ out?

Also, I'm worried about doing what I did the first time, and that was tightening the harmonic balancer too tight causing the crank sprocket to shift, busting the chain and teeth. I talked to a dealership today and they said the balancer bolt should be 75 ft lbs, so I tightened until I got a click for 75 ft lbs. It all looks correct. Does that sound right to you guys?

It will not run or start 180 out.

Rotor should point to no 1 plug wire when engine is TDC compression on no 1 cylinder.
There is a base time setting procedure.
Go threw that first.

It will not run or start 180 out.

Rotor should point to no 1 plug wire when engine is TDC compression on no 1 cylinder.
There is a base time setting procedure.
Go threw that first.

Unfortunately, I cannot figure this out. I've been working on it for a week and I'm giving up. Calling a tow and going to the dealership.

Sorry to open a later discussion, but I want to finish following up on some posts.

Got the truck to the dealership. I had bent the number 4 exhaust valve when the first chain replacement broke. Once I got the valve replaced, I had the new (2nd replacement chain) looked at and it was two teeth off. Plus, they told me I had the wrong chain on there. Over all, I spent way too much and learned a little, when I could have just spent the $400 to get the chain replaced int he first place.

Sorry to open a later discussion, but I want to finish following up on some posts.

Got the truck to the dealership. I had bent the number 4 exhaust valve when the first chain replacement broke. Once I got the valve replaced, I had the new (2nd replacement chain) looked at and it was two teeth off. Plus, they told me I had the wrong chain on there. Over all, I spent way too much and learned a little, when I could have just spent the $400 to get the chain replaced int he first place.

Thanks for posting back how it went.