CV joint leaking and front end noise

I am trying to figure out what would cause this. I have been searching for the last few months for the source of what seemed like tire noise. Sounded like I had big knobby tires on the thing. There isn't much vibration and at low speeds it sounds almost like a grinding. Braking and accelerating doesn't change anything other then the pitch or frequency changes with road speed. It may get louder in a turn but not much and the turning direction doesn't seem to make a difference. I was first thinking it was a wheel bearing. I replaced the drivers side hub a year or so ago. I can feel a small amount of play in the passenger side hub now. However today I jacked it up and put it in drive to spin the front wheels. The passenger side must have the least resistance since that side wanted to spin first. The noise seemed to be coming from the drivers side though and it was definitely there with the tires off the ground. I started looking real good on the drivers side and i found the inner CV joint boot is leaking grease out from under the clamp on the transmission side. So what could be going on in there that would force the grease out like that. I tried to check for play between those parts but I couldn't detect anything don't really know if this is causing the noise but I suspect it may. The problem is it doesn't sound like the clunking I am used to hearing when a CV joint goes.

If you replaced 1 wheel bearing, you may have to change the other wheel bearing as well. Also... Sounds can echo under vehicles and make it sound like its coming from a different direction.

My wife's 2003 GM FWD "run about" vehicle hummed as well. Almost like big knobby snow tires were on its front end. After some time, we discovered both its wheel bearings needed to be replaced. They got replaced and humming noise went away.

Our mechanic said that sometimes, a jacked up front end "tightens up". Thus, he couldn't feel loose parts - while on high jacks. But on flat ground with tires gently touching the ground, my wife's GM vehicle front end was very loose. Thus, both wheel bearings were replaced - even though NO PLAY feeling existed (when its front end was on high jacks).

Hope this helps...

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If you replaced 1 wheel bearing, you may have to change the other wheel bearing as well. Also... Sounds can echo under vehicles and make it sound like its coming from a different direction.


It was not the direction the noise was coming from hinted it was the driver’s side. I placed my shoe against the tire on the passenger side so that it would force the driver side to spin. The noise was only there if the driver side was spinning. Anyway since there is grease coming out of the CV joint it can’t be good or at least it will fail soon. I think I am going to replace it as a first step. Does anyone know if to do this the steering knuckle needs to be removed from the strut?

Well you were right. I removed the CV joint from the Hub and i could tell right away. There was no play but that bearing was very hard to turn by hand and made an awful noise. I cant beleive this less then two years and 30,000 miles and the bearing whent again. I bought the more expensive version this time i hope it lasts a littel longer.

Well you were right. I removed the CV joint from the Hub and i could tell right away. There was no play but that bearing was very hard to turn by hand and made an awful noise. I cant beleive this less then two years and 30,000 miles and the bearing whent again. I bought the more expensive version this time i hope it lasts a littel longer.

When the wheel bearings needed to be replaced on my wife's "run about", we too were asked about quality of replacement parts. re: El-cheap-O (to sell the vehicle next week), medium cost (medium quality) and very expensive (high quality) parts. We went with "high quality" and her vehicle has been running great every since. Hopefully, its new wheel bearings will last 80k+. Only time will tell.... Glad you picked the higher quality replacement parts as well... Good call!!!

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Wow, you actually got 2 years out of the cheap bearing? That's actually very good for those. They usually don't last more than a year in my experience. But when someone (the customer) tells you they want cheap, then you have to give it to them...

When the wheel bearings needed to be replaced on my wife's "run about", we too were asked about quality of replacement parts. re: El-cheap-O (to sell the vehicle next week), medium cost (medium quality) and very expensive (high quality) parts. We went with "high quality" and her vehicle has been running great every since. Hopefully, its new wheel bearings will last 80k+. Only time will tell.... Glad you picked the higher quality replacement parts as well... Good call!!!

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I didnt ask about the quality last time or this time. I took whatever was available. I think i am going to order a hub for the other side before i need to replace it which will be soon. I paid $80 for the old one and $180 for the new one. I guess as long as i get 4-5years out of this one it will be worth it. The new one is made by Timken which is atleast a good brand. But if the OEM design is flawed i dont know if brand matters that much.

Did you also replace the CV shaft since you seemed to be concerned about the grease coming out or just the bearing/hub assembly?

I replaced the CV joint because it was easy at that point and the inner joint boot was cracked and lost most of its grease so it wasnt going to last too long anyway.