hey guys, long time no see!

well its been a few since i been back on here, but im baaaaaack lol, i got an ecu error code today on the way home from work, im on an obd0 setup, and i got 5 blinks, 5 blinks, then 3 blinks... i turned off the car while driving to reset the code thinking it was my o2 sensor, and the error didnt reset. then tried again a little further down the road and it went away for about 10 mins, then it came back. anyone know what i need to check/replace with that code?

im assuming it has something to do with : 3 & 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor or circuit.

cause thats the only 5 or 3 that i see, but just wanted to find out from someone that knows then to start replacing stuff that doesnt need it. thanks in advance guys!

ps. i have had an issue starting it, i've been having to push start it where ever i go atm, i have replaced: starter, battery, ignition switch so far and no luck, i think i have a power drain somewhere, because i'll have to pull the hot cable when i park to make sure i can get it started again., its been fun fred frinstoning my car everywhere, but thats the other issue i have been having, not sure if the two are related.

Blinks doesn't tell us much. Hard blinks or soft blinks? long pause or short pause? Codes go in order from lowest to highest. A Hard blink counts as 10, while each soft blink is 1. Therefore 5 soft blinks is code 5, 1 hard blink and 3 soft is 13, 2 hard blinks is 20 and you have hit the end of codes, the process repeats

its 5 short, 5 short, 3 long then a pause then repeat

Can't be. Hard blinks come before soft blinks, codes go in numerical order. Its OBD0, there are only 20 codes, maybe a couple more, but I believe only 20.

ok i think its just 13 short flashes

Code 13 would be 1 hard flash and 3 soft flashes.

obd0's just blink codes no long and short flashes like obd1

replace the vacuum line going to the map and check for 5 volts at the plug going to it with the ignition switch in the on position,

starting problem -first check- start your car for about 10 seconds and with the ecu flash any code, shut the car off, take out the key and see if the ecu is still flashing, if so you main relay is sticking and is draining the battery

do you have a pic of where it would be? for the map sensor.

as for the starting issue, i dont normally get a code, does that matter? its been doing that for about a year now.

http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/502/crxvac.jpg

map sensor on the firewall



if the starting problem was to set off a code it would most likely be 16 or 20

OBD0 does have hard and soft flashes. I know because mine had code 10 and 14 for the longest time. The flashes are the same as reading OBD1 except you read them at the PCM instead of the CEL. He needs to learn to read the code before he starts checking and replacing things.

ok as far as flashes, its for sure 13 short flashes, i have read flashes to know my o2 sensor was out before, i just was unsure what 13 flashes was.

i took it to work today, the code came up, when i got there i turned the car motor off, and the ecu did not continue to flash.

i'll check the map sensor when i get a chance, i dont have a voltometer to check for 5v, but i can at least inspect the vacuum lines. not sure what you mean about the 16 20 part.

Ok, then you must be working on some strange OBD0 PCM, one different than all the ones I have messed with. Because at most you will get 9 short flashes together, not 13. Code 13 on all the OBD0 hondas I have messed with is 1 hard flash and 3 soft flashes.

it time for the mod to brush up the faq then :)

"#1...... 4 x 100 is the bolt pattern for rims

#2...... for a gauge cluster swap... 88 - 89 are the same... 90 - 91 r the same and yes u can use the wagovan cluster

#3...... u can use 5w30 and 10w30 oil in ur car... honda recommends 5w30 tho

#4...... ECU Codes....

Code 1 (1 flash) Oxygen content

Code 3 or 5 Manifold absolute pressure

Code 4 (4 flashes) Crank angle sensor

Code 6 (6 flashes) Coolant temperature

Code 7 (7 flashes) Throttle angle

Code 8 (8 flashes) TDC position (top dead center) timing

Code 9 (9 flashes) No. 1 cylinder position (1.6L)

Code 10 (10 flashes) Intake air temperature

Code 12(12 flashes) No code 11 don't know why. Exhaust gas recirculation system

Code 13 (13 flashes) Atmospheric pressure

Code 14 (14 flashes) Electronic air control (EACV)

Code 15 (15 flashes) Ignition output signal

Code 16 (16 flashes) Fuel injector

Code 17 (17flashes) Vehicle speed sensor

Code 19 (19 flashes) No code 18 for some reason Lock up control solenoid valve

Code 20 (20 flashes) Electric Load "

well i can try to videotape it so you can see. its def 13 flashes

thanks for the image btw, i'll see what i can find. what was your next suggestion for the starting issue? I have to pull off the hot cable when i park, i have to push start it, even when trying to jump it, all that really does is charge up the battery so i can push start it. it doesnt turn over at all.

The FAQ is a sticky and easy to find. I even organized it for easy access to things.

Get a video if you can and I can tell you exactly what code or codes you have.

As for your starter issue, do you hear a click when you attempt to start it? not a click from the starter trying to engage, but a small click inside the car. There is a relay right above the hood release, this relay is for your starter. If there is no click, then your issue is somewhere between the relay and the ignition switch, possibly your clutch safety switch. If there is a click, the problem is possibly between your relay and starter. If you are getting signal to your starter solenoid switch, then the issue is either your battery cable coming to the solenoid switch, or the solenoid switch itself.

So turn on , I hear 2 clicks one under hood and one near the hood latch.

dont know about the clicks under the hood unless its your starter solenoid switch. The starter circuit is a simple circuit, apparently from your ignition switch to the relay is good. Now you need to make sure voltage is getting to your starter solenoid switch. If you have a voltmeter or know someone who does, have someone turn the key over and check the small wire at the starter to see if your getting voltage there, and if you are, how much voltage. You should have full battery voltage coming to it right there, if not you have an issue in your wiring and need to fix it. The least bit of resistance in the starter circuit will cause the starter not to work, 1 ohm of resistance is too much. If you are getting full battery voltage(at least 11 volts) to the starter, start checking your big wires at the starter. One should have battery voltage the whole time, the other should get battery voltage when the key is in the Start position.

ok i picked up a multimeter today after work, it's raining atm, so when its dry i'll try that, as for the check engine light, it hasn't come back on, it was on for around 2 days and hasnt come back yet. but i'll keep ya posted. thanks

ok so i checked the 2 wires going to the starter. the little wire had no current and the bigger wire had 11.5-12v , so i assume the little wire is the problem, i tried to follow to where it goes, but it goes into a big cluster of wires and unless i cut that open not too sure where it leads to. i was thinking i could just cut each end and run a new wire to the fix the problem, can anyone tell me where the other end of the wire goes to?

actually correction, i wasnt turning it over i just had to 'on', i'll try again tomorrow

So did you figure it out yet?

And I thought only OBD0 codes were hard/short flashes only for B-series and just short flashes for d-series. My PM6 always had short flashes. Good test would be to pull the speedo cable out of the trans and count 17 flashes...

yea it was 13 short flashes for sure, but ever since i filled up the gas tank, i no longer been getting that code, as for the starting issues, i believe its the neutral switch. anyone ever change one of these? i seen the switch under the steering column, someone said i could bypass the switch or replace it. anyone know how to do either?

ok i made a little plug the same size as the remote wire that plugs onto the starter, and it connects to a wire that i have secured near the battery, so i can touch it on the battery when i want to start ( in neutrual of couse lol )
so this is a temp fix till i can get the switch and some help on putting it in. :iceslolan i believe i have located the switch above the clutch assembly, but its pretty tight up there so i couldnt tell how/what would be needed to swap in a working switch. i also debated on putting a toggle switch on the current wire setup and running it into the dash somewhere so i have a switch start lol, sorta a cheapo pushbutton starter. I do think i still have a power drain however leaving me to remove the battery hot cable. any one got tips for me to track down the leak?

Your safety switch is located on the pedal assembly, right above the clutch pedal. If the relay is clicking, its not the safety switch because power is getting to the relay. You have an open in the wire somewhere between the relay and the starter signal wire(the small wire) Remember anytime checking the signal you need someone cranking it over to test it, otherwise you have no current flow going to it. And just remove the wire from the starter when your testing it, so you don't have to worry about it. I couldn't tell you for sure which wire from the relay is the starter signal, but I would check there and check at the starter. If you have voltage at the relay coming out, but not at the starter, there is an open somewhere between. I could find out where the connector would be at to test between them, just will be tomorrow.

is the relay the little black box thing thats attached above the hood popper? its got like 4 wires give or take coming from a plug thing? looks like a black wire with a white stripe on the starter side and one of the wires coming off that box.
i've been tapping the wire rig i made so i havent had to push start, and i know the starter works cause it starts right up when i tap the wire to the battery. so i got it narrowed down to that lol.

also i do have a powerdrain somewhere i dont know if these problems are related or not. im gonna try to track down that next, just not sure what to do.

Yes that is the starter relay, there is 4 wires coming off of it. I forgot to check the wiring on it today, but I will get it soon, I am off work tomorrow.

Ok, its the Black/Red wire coming from the relay. On the wiring diagram it is showing it runs to the fuse box #2 under the dash, and then out to the starter. Only has one connector after the fuse box and that is at the strut tower, I believe the rectangle connector with all the grease in it.

With the key in the "Start" position, check for voltage at the relay on the Black/Red wire. If no voltage is there, the relay is your problem. If there is voltage there, double check at the starter with the key in the "start" position. If still nothing there, check your fuse. If the fuse is good and your meter is capable, switch it to the Ohms function and check the resistance between the relay and your starter, should be like .1 ohm I believe, something really low. 1 ohm of resistance is way too much for a starter, so if you have high resistance, you have a loose connection. if you have no resistance, this means there is an open.

Just have to check all the connections: relay, fuse, connector, starter. Once you find where you have voltage and find a point where you lost it, its between those 2. If there is no connection between them, gotta trace the wire and find it.