Front Hub bearing replacement 2002 GT

i will be replacing the driver's side front hub bearing on my 2002 GT. I have read this Tips and maintenance and instructions on replacement, so I believe I an good to go (excellent info). I have the Timken bearing (# 513179, ordered from Amazon for $89). I ordered new hub bolts, GM part number 18022052 (GM parts Direct.com). And I have ordered the axle nut GM Part number 10277361 but the folks at GM Direct indicated that the part number has been changed for the axle nut to 10257766. This is a bit troublesome to me. My research indicates that the 10257766 is a 34mm while the 10277361 is a 35mm. Can someone verify this part number change?

Also I have a friend who has a 2002 C6 Corvette. He inidcated that there was a TSB to change to this same new part number (rear wheel of course) but that Loctite 272 had to be added to the last few threads when the Axle nut was installed and torqued (also 159 ft-lbs). I have read the TSB but I don't think this applies to the 2002 Grand Prix. Can you comment on this as well?

Here is what I have read for torque on the bolts:

hub bolts: 96 ft-lbs
caliper bracket bolts: 133 ft lbs
axle nut: 159 ft lbs

Please let me know if this looks correct

The TSB is not applicable so threadlocker is not necessary. Once the axle nut is properly torqued it won't go anywhere.

Check with Timken or see if there are torque specs included. The published figures are for GM/Delco hubs only. Personally I would not use Timken hubs no matter how cheap. :grinno: High post installation failure rate.

Thanks for the quick reply. I can return the Timken bearing (I did not see anything negative about them) or I would not have purchased it. All I saw was "stay away from the bearings from China". I know of 3 sources AC Delco, BCA National, and ZZP. (In the order of cost). Which do you think?

The torque for the Timken is 159 ft lbs (web-site)

Torque specs look good to me.

I replaced my GTP's drivers front hub with a BCA last august. This September (only a year and a month later) the new BCA went bad again. One month after the 1-yr warrenty expired. I was sort of ticket and yes everything was torqued correctly.

I will only use the OEM AC/Delco wheel hubs. Both front have been replaced and going strong. One well after a year. From the factory I heard that the front hubs are good for 100,000 miles on average. I hope my OEM replacements lasts as long...

Thanks Tblake and JonJon68 for your thoughts. I had concluded today that the AC Delco was the only "safe" choice. I ordered AC Delco version today (part number FW293) from Amazon for $146. Not too bad and free shipping (but I have to pay 6% state sales tax). I will let you all know how everything turns out.

Wow, that's an excellent price. Nice job...

Yeah, and the delco hub to my knowledge comes with new hub to knuckle bolts and a new axel nut.

Dont forget to spread a light coat of anti-sieze on the mating surfaces of the hub and knuckle incase you ever have to take it off again. It makes it pop off in your hand insdead of using a 5lb hammer and a large chisel.

Thanks Tblake. I was planning on the anti-sieze and some high temp bearing grease on the splines of the axle. I hope to get started Friday afternoon. I do have a question about freeing the axle shaft: It should push back part of the way but is it best to use a wheel puller to push it back enough to free the hub or just tap the end (old nut on the end shaft for protection) with a "5 pound hammer"??

Like you said, I usually just thread the old nut on a few turns and take a few good hart whacks at it untill it noticibly popped in a bit. Then your home free. In fact, when I replaced mine (both fronts), I had no issues with the axel itself, my problem was with the hub to knuckle mating surfaced being rusted solid. I used plenty of panther piss, a large hammer, and plenty of choice words, but I was able to get it off just fine.

I replaced the left front hub bearing. Thanks for all the suggestions/advice. Everything went as smooth as possible. Took me about 1 and half hour. I also replaced my blower resistors the same afternoon. It was unbelievable how hard that blower resistor was!!! But I did replace it and the blower speeds now all function correctly. Over three hours for this task (maybe I am just too big and not made to "hang upside down to work).

The bad news is that the ABS/Trac light are still on (mechanic assured me that the code was pointing to the left hub). I checked the wiring but found no issues. I also checked the resistance of the old hub and it was 1200 ohms. I decided to check the righ hub today. Sensor is also reading close to 1200 ohms on the right side. Wiring is a little worse. The jacket is cracked and missing in a couple of places (sheath over the two sensor wires, not the corrugated plastic stuff). But I cannot detect any breaks in the wires or cracks in the insulation (again this is the right front). Have I missed something? :banghead:

I am going to obtain codes from the EC but I was hoping someone might know something obvious

If there is a next time on the blower motor resistor pull out the passenger seat makes it much easier to replace the resistor.

I looked at that based on another post I think you made. I thought removing the seat would be too much trouble. Live and learn I guess. Next time, out with the seat!!!!

There may be a break in the wiring. I would ohm out the wiring to ECM, I think that is where the wheel speed sensors go to? Also I would use some high grade silicone rubber to fix where the wire insulation has broken off of the wire. That can cause resistance of the wire to increase. Which can cause the wheel speed sensor not to register properly.

No to remove the seat there is 2 T60 torx screws that are on the floor on back of the seat. It is very easy to get the seat out. The only thing you have to do is to make the sure the seat is folded back as far as it will go. Because you have to lift the seat up as far as it will go up so that the hooks on the seat frame will be released. I have a messed up back so there was no way for me to do it with seat in.

Like Doc said, ohm check the wires. You would be suprized how they can "look" good but have an "open" internally. I'd be willing to bet that some new wires soldered in there can fix your issue.

Thanks Tblake. I plan on checking the wires where they go into the ABS module to verify resistance. I am still trying to confirm the connector pin out. Here is what I have now (post from jesnevets for a 2001 GT)

RR Signal: Pin 2
RR Low Ref: Pin 3
RF Signal: Pin 4
RF Low Ref: Pin 5
LF Signal: Pin 20
LF Low Ref: Pin 21
LR Signal: Pin 22
LR Low Ref: Pin 23

Do you have this info for a 2002 GT?

I fianlly got around to checking the wiring today. I removed the connector from the ABS module and measured the resistance from each hub. Wiring to both rear hubs was good. But the wiring to BOTH front hubs is bad. I have located the wiring harnesses at newgmparts.com. But I do not know the exact cost (will not know until Monday when newgmparts.com folks are back to work). I guess i could just splice in my own twisted pair wires (of course they would have to be soldered in and have heat shrink tubing) but I will wait to see how much the harness is first.
Does anyone know how much the harnesses are (a GM mechanic told me $50). :confused:

What I do when using heat shrink tubbing on car wire harness. I also inject silicone rubber into the heat shrink tubbing before I shrink the tubbing for a good water seal on the soldered section of the wire.

good tip Dr. Hardware! I've never thought of that, but I'd be willing to bet it works well as 3m I think has butt connectors like that that your crimp down, and then shrink with a lighter and silicone oozes out.

I got back to this problem this weekend. I purchased new wiring harnesses from newgmparts.com (two separate part numbers for right 10340315; left 10340317). The parts come with a special splice to be soldered in where the wiring harness joins the larger harness. They also come with shrink tubing. I did some research and identified a special type of shrink tubing that is made for wet environments (called marine shrink tubing). It has an adhesive inside that melts and flows around the wire/insulation when it is heated. So I used that heat shrink in addition to the one provided in the GM parts. As suspected, after they were removed the breaks in the old sires were pretty obvious. The GM parts also come with new wire loom (corrugated plastic shield) and the mounting hardware attached to the loom at the correct places to mount to the frame, etc. The replacement went without a hitch.

I also noticed a tie rod end that was worn and the grease cup was split. So I replaced that while I was at it too!!!

When I started the car, the ABS and Trac lights both went out (after the ABS module completed initial test). I have driven the car for 3 days now (300 miles) with no issue. I will update again next week. :smile:

Thanks for the update, some times it is hard to find the marine heat shrink tubing. That is why I suggested the silicone injected in the tubing.