Don't call me superman - call it WTF

So, here I am.... painstakingly anal about installing the new spline on the transmission - I grab the top right section of the transmission to slide it towards me and this happens:

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/SDC12029%20%5b1024x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/SDC12030%20%5b1024x768%5d.JPG

So, it's very apparent that this has been welded before - do you guys think this can be repaired again, or is Cazin looking for a new transmission due to a broken mount......... :runaround:

Thanks!

u can buy a new case. why do I know this....hmmmm.....i have had a crack in mine and the guys at promotion powertrain told me they dont repair them....cast aluminum is not very strong. dont ever use the bolts to pull the tranny in the last 1/8". if it isnt flush its not aligned.

remember this work was performed with the tranny out and on the floor.... no force whatsoever to slide the tranny.

Damn!!!! Way to go "cap'n torque master"!

Well that really sucks... :frown:

So, here I am.... painstakingly anal about installing the new spline on the transmission - I grab the top right section of the transmission to slide it towards me and this happens:

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/SDC12029%20%5b1024x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/SDC12030%20%5b1024x768%5d.JPG

So, it's very apparent that this has been welded before - do you guys think this can be repaired again, or is Cazin looking for a new transmission due to a broken mount......... :runaround:

Thanks!

Devin, the dark portion of the break is where this lug has been cracked for some time (and has been "fretting") and the light portion is the last bit that was holding on, but broke when you pulled on the trans.

I have had bits like this successfully welded before with no probs. Its actually quite common with trans to have lugs welded back on, especially with older muscle car tran's like Muncies and T10's etc. Really comes down to prepping prior to welding and the skill of the welder. In fact I have raced on a cast iron block that had been welded up (both lower bellhousing lugs welded back on post a severe trans clutch failure.............) and that held up absolutely fine and cost less than NZ$200 to weld up. Saved me about $3 - 4K.

Kel.

BEEFCAKE!

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/picture/GuyzieMan/Cartman-1.png

Agree with Kel, get it welded by a pro for about $50-$100. It wasn't done right the first time. Three points determine a plane and you got four mounting bolts. The fourth one is mostly insurance and a proper weld is just as strong as the original cast case anyway.

I also agree that it was probably originally broken by trying to seat it using the bolts to pull it in. I really like the cast iron case of the top loader in my Mustang. It probably saved me several times when I was young, dumb and strong. A broken C6 case taught me about properly seating the trans and supporting it before cranking on the bolts (ouch:banghead:)

Mike

Hi Devin,
looking at the pics, the previous repair was probably more cosmetic than strucural. The lug looks like it had been tacked in place from the back side and welded across the front face. If it were mine, it looks repairable, because I have time and capability, and no extra expendable cash. A used case shouldn't be hard to acquire and swap the internals, or just get a new case. In any repair of this type the highest likelyhood of success will be achieved working on the bare case when the welding commences. G;-)

hey all - as usual, great advice.
here's what I've done today.

got a quote on a new case - 250.00 - less than I thought.
took the tranny to a professional welder - done, less than 100.00.

he said, nah, we fix stuff like this all the time - no worries.

Ill send pics after I pick it up on Monday.
Have a great weekend everyone - I can almost hear the LS1 starting...

Repaired - 40.00 dollars - woo hoo

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/SDC12036%20%5b1024x768%5d.JPG

Devin, I know you will probably do this, but before installation, check to make sure that the face of the trans across the welded lug is true when mated up against the bellhousing. If there is any gap, use a shim or filler to fill this so that the repaired lug is not installed with any preload. Quickest way to kill aluminium (crack it) is to preload it and then subject it to cyclic loadings (found this out with aircraft repairs on highly stressed aircraft many times).

Kel.

Devin, I know you will probably do this, but before installation, check to make sure that the face of the trans across the welded lug is true when mated up against the bellhousing. If there is any gap, use a shim or filler to fill this so that the repaired lug is not installed with any preload. Quickest way to kill aluminium (crack it) is to preload it and then subject it to cyclic loadings (found this out with aircraft repairs on highly stressed aircraft many times).

Kel.

Great advice - we also took the bellhousing with the transmission and it was all mated prior to welding and again after - but, advice taken and will inspect upon final install.

thanks!

did he weld the top cover to the main housing?it looks that way! :-o

did he weld the top cover to the main housing?it looks that way! :-o

:sarcasmsign: yes