wont start

i replaced the clutch master cylinder on a 94 escort. now it will not start. everything comes on but when you turn the key to start it clicks at the relay mounted to the firewall, theres 2 side by side , passenger side . it started fine before i installed the new clutch master cylinder. any ideas would be greatly appriciated. thanks
pabst

There is a switch on the clutch pedal whose purpose is to ensure you cant start the car without the clutch pedal depressed. Maybe that switch became dislodged, or its connector got unplugged?

Thank you for the idea i checked the switches above the pedal and the plug behind and still no luck. I'm just stumped. I've checked wires, the battery seems hot, terminals look good, made sure all connections are made. i'd replace the relay but then nothing would come on if that were the case .Am i wrong on that? Im not to knowledgeable on electrical. Thank you again for your time and suggestion.

It's possible your battery is just drained... will it jump start?

Here are the next two things I would try:
First find the small terminal on the upper side of the solenoid on the starter. It is a flat terminal with a connector on it with a single wire. Voltage to this single wire is what causes the solenoid to operate, which both pulls the gear teeth into contact with the teeth on the starter ring on the flywheel, and to close the heavy current contacts inside the solenoid - so the starter gets voltage to the commutator inside.
By reaching down behind the intake manifold, you can slide the connector off of that terminal. It takes some effort. Then run an ordinary size insulated wire from that terminal, over to where it can reach the positive post on the battery. Ensure the car is in neutral and the handbrake on, then connect your wire to the + post on the battery. The starter should spin and crank the engine. (And if you left the ignition on, the engine would be running).
If so, it proves the starter isnt the problem. If it doesnt crank the engine, check the voltage on the battery. A fully charged battery should read at least 12.6 volts. If you turn the headlamps on, it should not drop below about 11.8 volts at first. (If you leave the lights on it will slowly drop in voltage). With the headlamps on, measure the battery voltage two ways; 1.From the positive post on the battery to the negative post, AND 2. From the positive post to some metal on the engine or transmission. There should be only a few milli-volts difference. If there is a bigger difference, you have a bad ground connection somewhere.
The final part of the test is to connect the voltmeter to measure the voltage getting to that connector that was on the small terminal of the battery. Measure from that connector to any metal part of the engine or transmission; and either have an accomplice turn the ignition key on, or have the VOM where you can see the reading.
If you dont see voltage on that connector, you know the problem is in the wiring between there and the battery.
An ignition switch can go bad of course. But if you hear a relay clicking, it is probably the fuel pump relay, which is located below the radio together with the relay for the computer (EEC). Or at least it is on my 92 LX. The fuel pump runs when that relay is closed, and it should be closed when 1. The ignition was just turned on with the last 2 seconds. 2. The starter is cranking, or 3. The EEC believes the engine is running based on sensor inputs.

Same car and just performed the same maintenance last weekend. The battery has to be removed to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. The clutch disengage switch located in the passenger compartment has to be taken off to gain access to the inside bolt. A main wire harness under the hood may have to be pushed around a little. Other than that, nothing else electrical is disturbed.

Does the radio and everything else go dead as you try to crank it ? My best guess is you're not getting a solid connection at the battery. Just having contact isn't enough. You have to have *good* contact at both positive and negative in order to pull the needed amperage to crank the motor. Related tips http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6034634&postcount=15 and http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6036013&postcount=17.

It it isn't that, then I would take the clutch disengage switch off and test it using a volt meter.

If the problem was with the clutch switch then there should be no clicking, which is the starter trying to engage. It SOUNDS like a lack of power... I think the battery is drained based on the info given.

......... everything comes on but when you turn the key to start it clicks at the relay mounted to the firewall, theres 2 side by side , passenger side ..............

I assume that means no crank -vs- crank but no start.

But agreed, you're probably right and the battery is bad.
Given that it had to be removed, it shouldn't have been in long enough to be drained for the repair.

I agree. Check that the battery is fully charged. If it was on the ground it would discharge through the case. If it is fully charged check the small wire connection on the starter.
I think you might have pulled off the small wire going to the solenoid while working on the clutch cylinder down there. Check it. If it's OK go through the steps Denisond3 lists to check it out. Do what he says and you can't go wrong.