Hazard Switch Question

Hi guys

I have a 96 LX

Since my Hazard button broke off, is it possible to relocate a different Hazard button from the junk yard anywhere else in my car?. The reason is if I fix the Hazard button in the orginal place I might break it off again when taking out my dash.

Are there 2 simple wires that I can just run from the steering column switch assemble to the spot I want?


Thanks,

Chris

Yes. If you get hold of the wires that lead to the hazard switch you can connect them to a toggle switch that you can mount anywhere.

Yes. If you get hold of the wires that lead to the hazard switch you can connect them to a toggle switch that you can mount anywhere.

thanks..do you know how deep the wires are in the switch assembly?..would it be hard to get a hold of them?

Just go to the junkyard and get a new combination switch.

thanks..do you know how deep the wires are in the switch assembly?..would it be hard to get a hold of them?


Nope... but if you have a wiring diagram you can figure out where the relay is and get the wires at that location. You can splice on new ends and route the new switch to wherever you want it.

Nope... but if you have a wiring diagram you can figure out where the relay is and get the wires at that location. You can splice on new ends and route the new switch to wherever you want it.


hi..how can I get a wiring diagram for that relay..would it be in the Haynes manual?

they Haynes manual should be all you need. Find out the wire colors and trace them backwards to the relay... then do some splicing.
I have not looked at the diagram myself... so be sure that the wires that go to that switch won't compromise another component by rerouting the switch to a toggle.

The indicators are indeed fed via relays, but they are internal to the electronic flasher unit, so that's what you're looking for. Under the dash, above and to the right of the interior fuse panel you should find a bracket on which are mounted a half dozen relays - the largest of those isn't actually a relay - it's the flasher unit.

I don't have a manual for the '96, but on the '95, a brown wire ran from the flasher unit to the Hazard switch, with the other switch terminal being connected to ground. The '97 is wired the same way except that the wire is brown with a white stripe.

So just identify the terminal on the flasher unit which has the brown or brown/white wire, connect that to your new switch, and run a wire from the other switch terminal to ground, and that's all there is to it.

These are the wiring diagrams for '95 and '97, and the flasher unit location for the '95 (location is identical on the '97).

'95 Hazard switch wiring diagram (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-turn-hazard-01.png)
'97 Hazard switch wiring diagram (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/97-all-turn-hazard-01.png)

'95 Electronic flasher unit location (http://www.freewebs.com/selectron/images-over-1024x768/95-Escort-interior-relay-locations.png)

hey guys

I got a Hazard Button unit off a Mazda mx-3, but it seems to have 4 wires and the escort only has 2 (yellow/red and dark green). I'm trying to splice into the 2 escort wires that has a little circuit board that was used with the original hazard button on the switch assumble. I can cut off the cirucit board because its totally useless without the orginal hazard button, but what shall i do about the wires.

hi does anybody have any suggestions on what to do here?..should i get anther toggle with only 2 wires involved?

All that you need is a single-pole, single-throw (SPST) switch, which would have two terminals. When the switch is in the Off position there is no continuity between the terminals, but when the switch is at On, there is continuity.

You could also use a single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) switch, which would have three terminals, where one terminal is common, and gives continuity to the second terminal (but not the third) or the third (but not the second) depending on which position it's in. That can be used to replace an SPST switch by simply leaving one terminal unused.

Then you could also use a double-pole, single-throw (DPST) switch, which would have four terminals, so this is probably what you have. It's effectively two SPST switches together in the same housing, mechanically linked but electrically isolated from each other, so it can switch two separate circuits simultaneously. You would just identify which two terminals belong to one pole of the switch - i.e. no continuity when Off, but continuity when On - use those, and leave the other two terminals unused.

You can identify the switching arrangement on your particular switch by using a multimeter on its resistance (ohms) range to test for continuity, or by feeding a 12V test lamp via the switch.

On the '95, the feed from the flasher unit comes in on a brown wire, through the switch and then to ground via a black wire, but if you look closely at the diagram you'll see that no wire colours are specified from the two connectors (C267) just outside the dotted lines of the hazard switch itself, so that will be the point at which you've identified that the wires become yellow/red, and dark green - just extend those wires to two appropriate terminals on your Mazda switch - a pair which have no continuity in the Off position, but which do have continuity when On, and leave the other two terminals unused.

It would also be worth looking on Google for a switch tutorial for SPST, SPDT, DPST, DPDT, etc. which would explain the above but with illustrations to make it easier to follow.

I dont think I can attach the mx-3 toggle switch..its a pretty big unit with not much room in the escort..but i'll try and if not i'll probably just use a generic on/off switch..as mentioned above (SPST) correct?

Yep, the original switch is SPST, so that's all that's needed, although if you find one small enough then SPDT, DPST, DPDT would all be fine too.

Other things to consider when selecting a switch are voltage and current rating, which are often, though not always, marked on the casing. A 12V/1A switch would be plenty for that particular application, or it's ok to use one with a higher rating too.

Yep, the original switch is SPST, so that's all that's needed, although if you find one small enough then SPDT, DPST, DPDT would all be fine too.

Other things to consider when selecting a switch are voltage and current rating, which are often, though not always, marked on the casing. A 12V/1A switch would be plenty for that particular application, or it's ok to use one with a higher rating too.


Hey Guys

Thanks for all the help.. i installed the generic SPST switch to the hazards. It only took 10 mins and now i have hazards back again lol...


Chris