1996 Chevy Cavalier No Spark

I have a 1996 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter engine with no spark; I have a check engine light and solid security system light and no trouble codes. First I have replaced the crank position sensor next I had the ignition module tested by three different locations and it passed. Next I checked the ignition module and cps wiring based on the Chilton repair guide and I verified that I have 12 volts going to the module and there is a ground present and all of cps/ module wires are good going to the Computer. Then I connected a noid light to one of the fuel injector harnesses and when cranking the light flashed. Stumped so I got the coils tested they tested bad I tested them as well, the primary side or bottom fails according to the ohms specs listed in Chilton’s and the secondary passes.

My question can both coil packs go out at the same time?

Sure, they can.... just like you could have all your tires blow out at the same time. How far out of spec are they? Some cheaper meters can be off quite a bit. Even with a high quality meter, I like to borrow someone else's meter to confirm a bad part.

WARNING: do this away from any flammable vapors and secure the coil pack so you don't get close to the secondary terminals!
To test them... put 12v to one terminal and briefly give the other one ground. There should be a strong spark between the secondary towers when you break the ground. If the spark doesn't jump between the towers, the coils are bad, but there is probably something else bad too. Most likely, both wouldn't fail at the same time, but it's possible. Check for pulse at the ignition module where the coils connect.

Hello, and thanks for your response. The coils measure .4 ohms. I had advance Auto parts check them them as well and they said the coils where out of spec. which is from .5 to .9 ohms on the primary side. The coil test that you indicated earlier how is this done? do you hook a 12 volt source on the female lead of the primary and the negative lead to the other? I got lost when you mention the ground part. As for, the testing the module for a pulse would this involve simply connecting my meter set on dc volts to the paired leads that are protruding from the module?

thanks for your time.

Well not saying both of your coils are bad but going by your diagnoistics the coils are the only thing that checked out bad. What kind of plugs and wires are you using?

To test the coils, I think you would need to provide a positive and ground wire to where the the bottom coil terminals go to the ICM. It doesn't matter which side you place + and ground. Then provide a small air gap between the top coil tower terminals and ground. Momentarily ground and break ground to the bottom terminal, and you should see a spark jump air gap between the top tower terminals and the ground each time you break ground to the coil.

For testing the ICM where the coil terminals plug in, a test light would be best. the test light should flash while cranking the engine.

Problem solved, I forgot to connected up the lead/ harness that ties in the crank position/ cam sensor and knock sensor to the pcm. My original problem was a open wire from pcm to crank position sensor, so I went to the junk yard and got the identical harnesses to make a test harness to check all of the connections for continuity. Somehow during testing I forgot to connect it back in.

Then I received a reply from manicmechanix, to effect of telling me to check the ignition module for pluses. As I proceed to check the module I noticed the a wire hanging, as soon as I plugged the leads together and cranked the engine the module sparked.

Thanks manicmechanix

Good to hear you got it fixed. That's the first check to make sure the connections and wires are all sound. There's anopther guy around here with 2.3 with no spark, I think in the Pontaic forum, and he overhauled the top of the motor I think. I'd bet his fix is similar with some connector not plugged in good.