Need Help Mike & steven again.....

Hi All, I finally took the resistor off of a blower motor resistor board and it wasn't that bad of a job. My question is, underneath the resistor itself is this rubbery stuff that feels like RTV glue, but it looks like a fine fabric mixed with it. You can see all the fibers. Should i reuse that old one, replace it some how, or not worry about it when I install the new one. Also, the resistor was riveted on the board. I had to drill it out the rivets. Does the board use the Rivets as a ground for the Resistor, b/c they were soldered on the board as well. Or can I use some stainless steel nuts and bolts to fasten it on the board again. Any and all help would be great. I would show some pictures, but I am not sure how to post them here at the Forum.


B

never came across something like that in years of small electronic repair. i would try to find out what the same stuff they used was, but if you can't i'd say regular clear silicone should do fine. question, where the resistor was riveted down to the board, is there traces that go to the rivet holes in the board? if there are traces there, i would put the rivet through the hole, solder it, and then fasten the rivet with the rivet gun.


thats just my take on it from dealing with light electronic repair (mainly receivers/amps) never seen soldered rivets and such. mike or steven'll have to add anything else as i'm not too sure, maybe somethings mentioned about it in the shop manual, i'm sure one of them has 1.

not sure how this forum works on posting photos, but on some you just put the [img] code at the beginning and end of the text.

what was wrong with the blower motor (guessing bad resistor from post) ? what all does the board control? i guess it was probably cheaper to just replace the resistor rather than gettin a new board eh?

Yea, the new board from the dealership is around 220.00. So the resistor was 12 on ebay. I bought 3. The problem is that Ford used a cheap solder that would melt and it wouldn't make contact. Thus the high speed wouldn't function.

I've never fooled with that board on that heater ecu. I've read a bunch of the posts concerning that cold solder problem, so I'm familiar with what you are doing. I have a bunch of the used ones that worked fine when on the car. Can't really add much more. I usually put a link in for photos. Makes it easy since I have a web site that hosts all my pics. I don't know how to do it any other way.

http://cmasalvage.com/91ltc_hecu2.jpg (http://cmasalvage.com/91ltc_hecu2.jpg)

http://cmasalvage.com/91ltc_hecu3.jpg (http://cmasalvage.com/91ltc_hecu3.jpg)