More hp for the buck

I have a 91 VR-4 it is completely stock from the air box to the active exhaust . I have about $850.00 to spend what should give me the best hp increase and still be smog legal in Ca?
I wouldn't have a problem say talking the air box off and on , headers mite be a different story or do they make some smog legal? and what about upgrade chips? or engine management sys? I know those are about $1600.00 are they worth it? Thanks upfront for anyones help

I'll just copy and paste what was in the original thread

There are no computer chips for a 3s.

For $800 I would get a downpipe, MBC, boost gauge, datalogger, and test pipe.

The test pipe would need swapped out for the cat to pass emissions. You could gut your precats and still pass emissions as long as the main cat is heated up nicely prior to testing.

If you do an engine management you likely wont pass visual in California.

I'll just copy and paste what was in the original thread

There are no computer chips for a 3s.

For $800 I would get a downpipe, MBC, boost gauge, datalogger, and test pipe.

The test pipe would need swapped out for the cat to pass emissions. You could gut your precats and still pass emissions as long as the main cat is heated up nicely prior to testing.

If you do an engine management you likely wont pass visual in California.


What about the Venom chip!? That gives you like 70whp! :D

But as Stealthee said you will get very noticable gains from a downpipe with no front or rear precats and a test pipe that can be swapped. Air filter is an ok idea but you don't get that much of a gain at all for an intake. If you do go that route just get an open element ebay intake.

let you in on something, unless the inspection place doesn't have an awd dyno, they can't do anything but sniff test for emissions. if they raise the car and see you took your cat out though, you'll fail.

i'd say your best bet is an exhaust system to start

thats the benefit of a test pipe. keep the main cat and just swap in in come emissions time.
Though, its really not to difficult to do that with the entire downpipe if you get one that deletes the main cat

no he's safe there, unless the tech really looks hard for the cat's you'll have no problem passing. like i said a sniff and probably a brake inspection along with making sure your exhaust is complete and no holes.

also, with a vr4...or similar vehicle(sporty/sports) the inspection may be a lot more precise than a glance over that a toyota camry or the likes would get

also what's a FMI run for install, that fromt what i understand makes the power increase a lil

If they do a sniff test he NEEDS HIS CAT.

Thanks for the input but now it looks like that money will be paying off a speeding ticket and getting a radar detector instead. What a bitch!!! Any thought on radar/laser detectors?

Thanks for the input but now it looks like that money will be paying off a speeding ticket and getting a radar detector instead. What a bitch!!! Any thought on radar/laser detectors?
Hint #1, watch your speed. I speed on a daily basis but do so in a sane manner.
Hint #2 don't spend a ton of money on a radar detector unless you have money to burn. I have a cheapo Cobra that has kept me out of trouble for awhile now. I do however want to eventually get a Valentine 1.

i use a whistler xtr 695. tons of useful features, flat black finish so no glare, fantastic sensitivity and filters. you can find them on ebay new in box for under 150 if your patient. If you want better you gotta spend 2x as much. IMO its the perfect balance for performance and price. check out radartest.com for all the testing data and a nice comparison
sub-$200 detector comparison (http://www.radartest.com/article_4.asp?articleID=100582)

i got my cobra for 20 bucks, hehehe. some dude was stranded ata gas station and needed money for gas and slod me his radar lol, i lucked out
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Why not a boost controller and bov? I read some where the that stock 1st gen turbos only run at like 7lbs but are actually 20lbs turbo and can handle 13or so and still be reliable and manual controller are fairly cheap 100-150 is this not true

Read post #2. MBC = manual boost controller.

MBC can be had for $15, not $150.

And no the stock turbos are NOT good for 20psi. They are good for about 15psi peak, but only hold about 9-10 to redline.

Sorry I'm not great with abbreviation that's why I spell everything out I'm sure I'll pick up the Ligo sooner or later and wow there really that cheap

I read some where the that stock 1st gen turbos only run at like 7lbs

1g turbos are identical to 2g turbos.
A 1st gen can be upped to 2nd gen boost perfectly safely and for free in about 30 seconds by removing a small ring from one of the vacuum nipples (search "free boost mod").

1g turbos are identical to 2g turbos.
A 1st gen can be upped to 2nd gen boost perfectly safely and for free in about 30 seconds by removing a small ring from one of the vacuum nipples (search "free boost mod").

I'll look into that really but my car not Evan on the road yet I bought as kind of a project i don't even keep it at my house I've only seen it like four times in two weeks only driven it twice on tags from one of my other cars so for me it's more about planning and making it exactly what I want and I don't think I really know what that is yet but as far as it goes I went for my first real drive today and actual got into it and first impressions were WOW for a 140k miles and 2Gs' that is a nice car fast handles great juust needs better brakes but then again my rear pads are shot and all the rotors need to be turned I'm thinking EBC redstuff pads in the rear anybody tried them haven't put much though in the front yet

...period. :D