Transmission
chrisanthony
08-30-2009, 10:22 PM
Hi guys
I have a 96 Lx 1.9l
I noticed my transmission fluid is a little dark and smells kind of burnt. I'm not sure when last it was changed before i bought the car. Is there a drain plug for the escort transmissions? if not is there any other easier way of draining it without taking the pan off?
Thanks,
Chris
I have a 96 Lx 1.9l
I noticed my transmission fluid is a little dark and smells kind of burnt. I'm not sure when last it was changed before i bought the car. Is there a drain plug for the escort transmissions? if not is there any other easier way of draining it without taking the pan off?
Thanks,
Chris
jcwit
08-31-2009, 04:20 AM
Nope, take the pan off. You can drain a very little from the plug that has an Allen Wrench socket on it. My self I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and had an adapter welded to the pan for future drainings without removing the pan.
chrisanthony
08-31-2009, 10:35 AM
Nope, take the pan off. You can drain a very little from the plug that has an Allen Wrench socket on it. My self I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and had an adapter welded to the pan for future drainings without removing the pan.
"You can drain a very little from the plug that has an Allen Wrench socket on it"
so a drain plug does exist right?
"You can drain a very little from the plug that has an Allen Wrench socket on it"
so a drain plug does exist right?
mightymoose_22
08-31-2009, 03:19 PM
You will need to take the pan off anyway to change the filter inside. If you aren't going to change the filter then there isn't much point in changing the fluid.
chrisanthony
08-31-2009, 05:29 PM
You will need to take the pan off anyway to change the filter inside. If you aren't going to change the filter then there isn't much point in changing the fluid.
thanks guys..where would one get a transmission filter and gasket?..i couldn't find any at Canadian tire and what is the process of changing the transmission fluid including filter and gasket?
Thanks again
thanks guys..where would one get a transmission filter and gasket?..i couldn't find any at Canadian tire and what is the process of changing the transmission fluid including filter and gasket?
Thanks again
AzTumbleweed
08-31-2009, 05:32 PM
Any parts store should be able to get the filter. It comes in a box with new gasket. When you drop the pan you'll see the filter. Shouldn't be any problem to replace it. :)
jcwit
08-31-2009, 05:33 PM
Yes, if you're laying on your back with feet sticking out the front of the car it (plug) is to the left of the pan on the casting.
As far as changing the filter I would do this as you'll have to remove the pan anyway. If you have a plug adapter welded onto the pan I wouldn't bother with it as it usually only catches the larger chuncks anyway. It a far cry from what we normally think of as a filter as in an oil filter.
As far as changing the filter I would do this as you'll have to remove the pan anyway. If you have a plug adapter welded onto the pan I wouldn't bother with it as it usually only catches the larger chuncks anyway. It a far cry from what we normally think of as a filter as in an oil filter.
mightymoose_22
08-31-2009, 05:41 PM
Simply drain the fluid, drop the pan, replace the filter, replace the pan, refill.
If there is no drain plug then loosen the pan bolts and let the fluid drain from one corner until the level is low enough to remove the pan without making a mess. The larger your pan to catch the spill the better.
There is probably just a single bolt holding the filter in place. Nothing tricky about replacing it. Clean the surfaces of the pan and the transmission, install the new seal, and replace the pan. Use a criss-cross pattern on the bolts when you tighten them to make sure it goes on even.
Pop the hood and pour in new fluid through a funnel.
It isn't difficult, but it can be messy. You might want to consider just having the service done at a shop where they can hook up a pump to the transmission cooler that will circulate the fluid and drain the old fluid as it pumps in new clean fluid. At the shop that service is probably $60-80 while on your own your own the fluid and gasket will probably cost around $30.
If there is no drain plug then loosen the pan bolts and let the fluid drain from one corner until the level is low enough to remove the pan without making a mess. The larger your pan to catch the spill the better.
There is probably just a single bolt holding the filter in place. Nothing tricky about replacing it. Clean the surfaces of the pan and the transmission, install the new seal, and replace the pan. Use a criss-cross pattern on the bolts when you tighten them to make sure it goes on even.
Pop the hood and pour in new fluid through a funnel.
It isn't difficult, but it can be messy. You might want to consider just having the service done at a shop where they can hook up a pump to the transmission cooler that will circulate the fluid and drain the old fluid as it pumps in new clean fluid. At the shop that service is probably $60-80 while on your own your own the fluid and gasket will probably cost around $30.
jcwit
08-31-2009, 06:44 PM
$60 to $80 WOW--In Calif yet!!!
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
denisond3
08-31-2009, 07:53 PM
And to drop the tranny pan, I find I first have to drop the cross-member out of the way that runs front-to-back under the transmission. This involves having a jack under the bell housing to support things - or you wont be able to muscle the cross-member back up to get the 2 nuts (in back) and 2 bolts (in front) back on. You also have to undo the 4 nuts that connect the cross member to the two motormounts. This wont cause the tranny to drop on you, there are a total of 4 motor mounts on the Escort engine/tranny.
The torque on those trannypan bolts is only about 10 lbs ft or so. Overtightening them will either strip the threads out of the aluminum tranny case, or cause 'dimpling' of the rim of the pan. You can get an idea of how worn your tranny is by seeing how thick is the metallic sludge that is coating the two round magnets in the oil pan.
The torque on those trannypan bolts is only about 10 lbs ft or so. Overtightening them will either strip the threads out of the aluminum tranny case, or cause 'dimpling' of the rim of the pan. You can get an idea of how worn your tranny is by seeing how thick is the metallic sludge that is coating the two round magnets in the oil pan.
jcwit
08-31-2009, 08:01 PM
Because of all of the above is why I opted for putting on a drain plug. Every 2 to 3 oil changes I do a drain and fill.
mightymoose_22
09-01-2009, 12:26 AM
$60 to $80 WOW--In Calif yet!!!
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
I'm just guessing... it could be more. Might just depend where you go.
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
I'm just guessing... it could be more. Might just depend where you go.
chrisanthony
09-01-2009, 08:32 AM
$60 to $80 WOW--In Calif yet!!!
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
here in ontario canada is probably more then 100$ easily..adding in filter replacement labor is even more...
Here in No. Indiana a tranny flush runs $100 firm.
here in ontario canada is probably more then 100$ easily..adding in filter replacement labor is even more...
chrisanthony
09-01-2009, 10:37 AM
thanks guys for all the suggestions..i'll check it out this weekend
chrisanthony
09-01-2009, 01:35 PM
hey guys.
I forgot to ask how much ATF fluid should I pour?
I forgot to ask how much ATF fluid should I pour?
jcwit
09-01-2009, 01:51 PM
I usually measure how much I get drained out then add not quite that amount. Then with the engine running with the tranny in park or neutral I check/add/check/add/check, I think you get the idea. Till I have the fluid at the proper level, go for a drive and do a last double check.
chrisanthony
09-01-2009, 02:32 PM
I usually measure how much I get drained out then add not quite that amount. Then with the engine running with the tranny in park or neutral I check/add/check/add/check, I think you get the idea. Till I have the fluid at the proper level, go for a drive and do a last double check.
That’s true..i heard bout 3-4 quarts..can someone verify this?
That’s true..i heard bout 3-4 quarts..can someone verify this?
mightymoose_22
09-01-2009, 03:50 PM
That’s true..i heard bout 3-4 quarts..can someone verify this?
Automatic transmission capacity is 4.1 quarts, however, if you just drain the pan you are not getting all the fluid out from the cooler and the lines. As mentioned above, add just 3 quarts, then let the engine idle in neutral as you slowly add the last quart to get it at the right level. Always check tranny fluid while idling in neutral.
Automatic transmission capacity is 4.1 quarts, however, if you just drain the pan you are not getting all the fluid out from the cooler and the lines. As mentioned above, add just 3 quarts, then let the engine idle in neutral as you slowly add the last quart to get it at the right level. Always check tranny fluid while idling in neutral.
chrisanthony
09-02-2009, 08:58 AM
Automatic transmission capacity is 4.1 quarts, however, if you just drain the pan you are not getting all the fluid out from the cooler and the lines. As mentioned above, add just 3 quarts, then let the engine idle in neutral as you slowly add the last quart to get it at the right level. Always check tranny fluid while idling in neutral.
thanks man.
thanks man.
chrisanthony
09-14-2009, 08:16 AM
hey guys.. i just looked under my car this weekend and there is no sign of a drain plug. The bolts for the transmission pan seems to be badly rusted, so maybe i shouldn’t interfere with it. What do you guys think?
zzyzzx2
09-14-2009, 09:27 AM
Mine were badly rusted, but I reused them anyway. Same with the pan (which was only partially rusted). If I had to do it again, I would have soaked the bolts in a a solution of alka-seltzer with water (tto remove the rust). Or go to a JY and fine one with some non-rusted bolts. Not all of mine were rusty, just some of them.
chrisanthony
09-14-2009, 01:48 PM
Mine were badly rusted, but I reused them anyway. Same with the pan (which was only partially rusted). If I had to do it again, I would have soaked the bolts in a a solution of alka-seltzer with water (tto remove the rust). Or go to a JY and fine one with some non-rusted bolts. Not all of mine were rusty, just some of them.
How about if i buy a long hose and just try to siphon it out with a auto syringe like i do with power steering fluid?.
How about if i buy a long hose and just try to siphon it out with a auto syringe like i do with power steering fluid?.
denisond3
09-14-2009, 02:34 PM
Using a hose to syphon out fluid would be better than nothing..... Once upon a time Jiffy-Lube used that technique to give people "motor oil changes in ten minutes".
I have the clear vinyl or polyethylene hose for draining brake fluid and gasoline, etc. I like it because I can suck on the end of the hose to start the syphon, can see the fluid coming; so can avoid tasting it. It comes in various diameters. I get the size thats a tight fit on the end of the brake bleeders screws on my car. That way I can see if there are still air bubbles coming out along with the fluid. Auto parts places may also sell a plastic hose with a syphon pump on the end.
Syphoning out the fluid wont get out the muck in the bottom of the pan, so it would be a good idea to start the process shortly after you have driven it around; to maximize how much of the silt is still in suspension from driving. You also wont see how much metallic 'fuzz' is sticking to the doughnut magnets in the pan; (not that knowing how much is there will help you much).
So far I havent syphoned ATF out, I always drop the pan: And I usually find other things that need attention. For instance I sometimes have to use threaded inserts (like "helicoil" or equal) to fix places where the threads in the aluminum case have been stripped out (probably by folks trying to stop oil leaks by making the bolts tighter, instead of replacing the gasket). - or to un-dimple the rim of the pan.
The manual calls for 74-95 inch-pounds of torque on those pan bolts. A.k.a. 6 to 9 ft lbs. And often if the pan bolts have been over-tightened enough to strip the threads out of the case, the rim of the pan will have been 'dimpled' up around the holes. You should un-dimple the rim with proper tools. I use my lead hammer and a tree-stump.
When I rebuilt the tranny in my Escort, It took just over 6 quarts to refill. This was for refilling a tranny that was -empty-. The torque converter, all the oil passages and accumulators, etc were empty. The Service manual says it takes 6.7 U.S. quarts or 6.3 liters. For a typical ATF change (just dropping the pan), you get about half of the oil to drip out.
I have the clear vinyl or polyethylene hose for draining brake fluid and gasoline, etc. I like it because I can suck on the end of the hose to start the syphon, can see the fluid coming; so can avoid tasting it. It comes in various diameters. I get the size thats a tight fit on the end of the brake bleeders screws on my car. That way I can see if there are still air bubbles coming out along with the fluid. Auto parts places may also sell a plastic hose with a syphon pump on the end.
Syphoning out the fluid wont get out the muck in the bottom of the pan, so it would be a good idea to start the process shortly after you have driven it around; to maximize how much of the silt is still in suspension from driving. You also wont see how much metallic 'fuzz' is sticking to the doughnut magnets in the pan; (not that knowing how much is there will help you much).
So far I havent syphoned ATF out, I always drop the pan: And I usually find other things that need attention. For instance I sometimes have to use threaded inserts (like "helicoil" or equal) to fix places where the threads in the aluminum case have been stripped out (probably by folks trying to stop oil leaks by making the bolts tighter, instead of replacing the gasket). - or to un-dimple the rim of the pan.
The manual calls for 74-95 inch-pounds of torque on those pan bolts. A.k.a. 6 to 9 ft lbs. And often if the pan bolts have been over-tightened enough to strip the threads out of the case, the rim of the pan will have been 'dimpled' up around the holes. You should un-dimple the rim with proper tools. I use my lead hammer and a tree-stump.
When I rebuilt the tranny in my Escort, It took just over 6 quarts to refill. This was for refilling a tranny that was -empty-. The torque converter, all the oil passages and accumulators, etc were empty. The Service manual says it takes 6.7 U.S. quarts or 6.3 liters. For a typical ATF change (just dropping the pan), you get about half of the oil to drip out.
zzyzzx2
09-14-2009, 03:22 PM
I've siphoned mine several times:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3878 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3878)
SIPHON PUMP KIT
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/03800-03899/03878.gif
Quickly and safely transfer gasoline, water and other liquids.
4 ft. of both intake and discharge hose
Inlet and outlet nozzles
31'' x 1/4'' dipstick tube
Solid brass piston rod
16'' air pressure hose with 90° snap-shut valve
ITEM 3878-5VGA
Only thing is that the 31" dipstick tube is really too short.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3878 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3878)
SIPHON PUMP KIT
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/03800-03899/03878.gif
Quickly and safely transfer gasoline, water and other liquids.
4 ft. of both intake and discharge hose
Inlet and outlet nozzles
31'' x 1/4'' dipstick tube
Solid brass piston rod
16'' air pressure hose with 90° snap-shut valve
ITEM 3878-5VGA
Only thing is that the 31" dipstick tube is really too short.
zzyzzx2
09-14-2009, 03:26 PM
Get the above kit at Harbor Freight AND go to WalMart and get the 8' clear tubing from the aquarium dept to use as the dipstick tube. Worked for me.
chrisanthony
09-14-2009, 05:58 PM
thanks guys for all the replies..i'll try to siphon it out and later on.. i'll look after the pan and filter..
chrisanthony
09-15-2009, 08:28 AM
hey guys..just to make sure..the type of atf i use is DexronIII MERCON ATF or Type F?
FordMan59
09-15-2009, 10:45 AM
If you are able to remove all the transmission fluid the capacity is 8.2 pints.
Davescort97
09-16-2009, 12:48 AM
It takes MERCON only. Don't use anything else.
chrisanthony
09-16-2009, 08:35 AM
It takes MERCON only. Don't use anything else.
iight thanks so its cool if i use this:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/TransmissionFluidTreatments/PRD~0281502P/Motomaster%2BAutomatic%2BTransmission%2BFluid.jsp
iight thanks so its cool if i use this:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/TransmissionFluidTreatments/PRD~0281502P/Motomaster%2BAutomatic%2BTransmission%2BFluid.jsp
Davescort97
09-16-2009, 08:44 AM
I can't pick up the link, but if you've got a lot of miles on it and it shifts hard or slips it should be all right. What kinds of problems does it have? Btw, 91 to 96 Escorts AT take 2.5 quarts on just a drain and refill. This is what the Haynes Manual specifies. The 97-98 take 5.7 quarts and the 99-2000 take 4.1 quarts.
chrisanthony
09-16-2009, 09:30 AM
I can't pick up the link, but if you've got a lot of miles on it and it shifts hard or slips it should be all right. What kinds of problems does it have? Btw, 91 to 96 Escorts AT take 2.5 quarts on just a drain and refill. This is what the Haynes Manual specifies. The 97-98 take 5.7 quarts and the 99-2000 take 4.1 quarts.
oh it feels kind of hard when i shift and besides when checking the dipstick the fluid is black and smells burnt. I dont think the previous owners ever changed it.
oh it feels kind of hard when i shift and besides when checking the dipstick the fluid is black and smells burnt. I dont think the previous owners ever changed it.
zzyzzx2
09-17-2009, 08:28 AM
I fI were you, I would siphon out as much as I could, and replace with new fluid. then drive it for 2-3 months. Then repeat this process at least once. Then drop the pan and change the filter and fluid the normal way. You want to get out as much of the burnt fluid as you can! That and replacing really old fluid can sometimes cause the filter to clog (new detergents in the new fluid can do this), so you want that to happen before you drop the pan. If you hear the transmission pump whine, then your filter may already be clogged.
Davescort97
09-17-2009, 02:09 PM
The hard shift could be due to the burnt fluid. I would replace the fluid, drive it for a while and see how it does. If it still shifts hard it woud hurt to put in an additive. Go by the previous post before you put in any additive. I would, anyway.
chrisanthony
09-28-2009, 08:54 AM
hey guys..just an update..I purchased the pump that was stated earilier in the thread and i got out most of the fluid..now it feels alot smoother when shifting..on my next oil change i'll replace the fluid again just get out all the bad stuff...
Thanks for all the help:)
Thanks for all the help:)
chrisanthony
09-28-2009, 09:06 AM
wow i didn’t realize this thread was viewed 777 times lol...
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