Anyone ever have issues w/ the starter toggle switch? Question.

After my fuel pump fiasco (detailed in the other thread) the car didn't want to turn over. I had to try and start it a few times before the starter would engage and do anything. We've never ever had a starter issue at all.

After I got it started and ran my last session I came in to trouble shoot it and check connections. Man these cars are a rats nest of wiring... nothing labeled, all different colors of wires etc. Maybe a fress wire w/ a painless kit is in order this winter.

I noticed that the starter toggle switch was a bit loose on the switch panel... but it's always been that way. My father wanted to tighten it and I was adamant that the nut on the front was only to adhere the toggle to the panel nothing more. Well after tightening it the car started every time... I did it 10ish times.

Anyone know if that toggle uses the mounting setup to ground itself? If that were the case you couldn't use it in a carbon fiber or composite dash thoough. Also, the switch panels aren't good grounds becuase they're screwed to the trans tunnel and that's bolted to the car.

My other thogught was that since the switch nut was backed off some it may have been preventing the toggle from full engaging the contact to complete the circuit and send the starter power. This is hard to explain via typing w/o a schematic, but does anyone know if having that starter toggle switch totally tight to the panel is cruicial to it's operation?

Fingers crossed.

After my fuel pump fiasco (detailed in the other thread) the car didn't want to turn over. I had to try and start it a few times before the starter would engage and do anything. We've never ever had a starter issue at all.

After I got it started and ran my last session I came in to trouble shoot it and check connections. Man these cars are a rats nest of wiring... nothing labeled, all different colors of wires etc. Maybe a fress wire w/ a painless kit is in order this winter.

I noticed that the starter toggle switch was a bit loose on the switch panel... but it's always been that way. My father wanted to tighten it and I was adamant that the nut on the front was only to adhere the toggle to the panel nothing more. Well after tightening it the car started every time... I did it 10ish times.

Anyone know if that toggle uses the mounting setup to ground itself? If that were the case you couldn't use it in a carbon fiber or composite dash thoough. Also, the switch panels aren't good grounds becuase they're screwed to the trans tunnel and that's bolted to the car.

My other thogught was that since the switch nut was backed off some it may have been preventing the toggle from full engaging the contact to complete the circuit and send the starter power. This is hard to explain via typing w/o a schematic, but does anyone know if having that starter toggle switch totally tight to the panel is cruicial to it's operation?

Fingers crossed.

I do know that having the switch tite to the panel is not crucial to the operation of the switch but letting the switch move with the size and amount of wires going into it will ruin it quickley. I have gone thru two and keep a spare. These can be be picked up at your local electrical suppy house. Gary Jones also has them get two.

Brian, yes my car developed the same fault during/after the 6 hour enduro. Good job that we didnt have the car stall during a pit stop...........!! We did have to push start it the next day to get it on the trailer, all with very bad hangovers!!

I have not done any fault finding as yet but have assumed it is either a connection up at the switch, the switch itself or an issue down at the starter.

Given this post, I will definitely start fault finding with the switch and its connections.

Brian, yes my car developed the same fault during/after the 6 hour enduro. Good job that we didnt have the car stall during a pit stop...........!! We did have to push start it the next day to get it on the trailer, all with very bad hangovers!!

I have not done any fault finding as yet but have assumed it is either a connection up at the switch, the switch itself or an issue down at the starter.

Given this post, I will definitely start fault finding with the switch and its connections.

A very easy fix is solder the ring terminals on each of the three sets, Then bolt them. Run a seperate pig tail from each set to the switch. This eliminate all the side stress on the switch. I have considered a seperate starter button but this has worked so far. Yes it took a number of days to clean up the wire harness and rewrap.. Good luck

All worked perfectly today... not sure why, but we had no issues knock on wood.

Hi Brian, Bob and I had an intermitant starter problem, toggleing the start would often result in a clank and nothing else. When we looked at the ignition/starter switch is had just about everything wired through it. We installed a new switch panel, with a 40 amp relay on the ignition switch to run everything but the starter, and a 30 amp (presss on) switch for the starter. Nothing but sweet starting now. G;-)

My starter switch went bad as well. A good place to get those is to find a local aircraft parts surplus place. If you think you have this problem at the track a quick fix is to use the wiper motor switch - assuming you don't need the wipers. It's also a quick way to test for the problem without buying a switch...