About to embark on CV change......

Its been awhile since I've been on this forum. My knucklehead teenager blew up the engine on the 90 Convertible. So now I have a parts car. I recently got a 93 Vert, 3/5. It has the dreaded knocking while making right turns. Looking underneath both boots are torn. So taking Doctorbills advice about enlightenment, I searched and re searched everything possible about CV stuff from this forum: bearings, half shafts and anything else. I'm pretty sure about my abilities to shade-tree this project. What I am not sure about is what parts to get from the auto parts store and which ones to get from the parts car in the driveway. The parts car does not have the boots torn. What can anyone tell be about boots kit? How much grease or lube will I need? Any other other info will be helpful. I plan I dong this this weekend.

If the parts car does not have torn boots why would you need a boot kit. Just swap out the driveshafts. However, if you do want to change the boots - I've done both the inner and outer boots on the driver side on my Metro at different points in time. The inner boot is easy - you just have to slide out the tulip (I think that's what they call it) and replace the boot. The outer joint is more tricky - I think you have to hammer the joint off - there is a hidden retaining clip inside.

In both cases you can use a boot kit which will have a grease pack for packing new grease into the joint. You will also probably need the tool for tightening the CV boot band.

Put new axles on it and fix the engine in the "parts car". Unless there's something inherently wrong with that 90 vert, it's worth fixing the engine.

I wouldn't fart around with those boot kits, etc. You can get axles for $70, $120 if you want to go to raxles.com and get the best. I bill at $165 an hour during the week, I'm not about to do twice the labor taking used axles off one car, putting two $20 boot kits on each axle, installing them on another just to find six months later that I have worn out CV joints with lovely new boots.

I hear that.

Put new axles on it and fix the engine in the "parts car". Unless there's something inherently wrong with that 90 vert, it's worth fixing the engine.

I wouldn't fart around with those boot kits, etc. You can get axles for $70, $120 if you want to go to raxles.com and get the best. I bill at $165 an hour during the week, I'm not about to do twice the labor taking used axles off one car, putting two $20 boot kits on each axle, installing them on another just to find six months later that I have worn out CV joints with lovely new boots.

It has the dreaded knocking while making right turns. Looking underneath both boots are torn..
Translation: The knocking indicates a bad CV Joint(s) so boots wont get it done for this repair. If you can scrape up the $$$, I personally would buy both NEW CV Axles as woodie suggested and be done with the problem!

Good advice guys. I am going to purchase some new axles as suggested. I'm checking out the tip of raxles.com. The local Napa store has "rebuilt ones". Besides the obvious, whats the difference?

So far, I've removed the wheel(duh) and associated caliper parts, disconnected the control arm, took off the axle spindle nut (broke my breaker bar!), and the two phillips head screws. Now I'm stuck. the rotor rotates, but it can't be pulled off. What am I missing here?

No need to remove the rotor. If you read my trans removal guide here..........
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=907782

You will see I disconnected and seperated the lower ball joint and slid & swung the whole shibang out of the way. Now you can pop the axles.

Thanks for the resource Johnny... BTW that is a BMF chrome tranny you put on there. It was easier than expected. Put the front on jack stands, Removed the control arm bolts, Removed the lower ball joint bolt, Disconnected the loser ball joint, Gingerly pried out the old half shafts. Got new half shafts from NAPA. I called raxles.com. Marty there says he doesnt build Metro stuff anymore because he cant get any American parts. So I am starting the install tonight. Is there anything to be aware of when installing the half shafts? BTW, are the axle seals a common failure with this car (it wasn't leaking before, just noticed the mention of it in your tranny rebuild post)? Dumb me forgot to drain the tranny fluid. So when I pulled out the half shaft, all the fluid came out too. And this may be a dumb question but, what type of transmission fluid do you recommend?

I recommend using Synchromesh fluid in these transmissions. Pennsoil and GM both make it. Go ahead and replace the axle seals now. Much easier when out..............
http://geometroforum.com/topic/681999/