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1997 runs like crap


kenc195
08-12-2009, 01:05 AM
V6 2WD 245,000 miles, new air filter, fuel injectors cleaned, new denso plugs
No codes but failed monitor status conditions.

1. Evaporative System Monitor failed. Where is the canister on the 97's?

2. Oxygen sensor heater monitor failed. This truck has 4. Any idea how to narrow down which ones it is?

Any other advice

Very very slow acceleration, steady tach at idle even when in gear and brakes on

amigo-2k
08-12-2009, 08:38 PM
For the O2 sensor the Check Engine light will toss a code to let you know which one is bad.

the only other thing I can think of is a bad mass air flow sensor (you could pick a used one up cheap).

dbikers
08-12-2009, 10:26 PM
i'm new here, but noticed you didn't say you'd changed your fuel filter (i thing you should have one on the passenger side inner frame rail near the rear of the car)...how old is the fuel filter?
i just put a new one in mine as it looked original (i didn't really notice a difference but mine runs really well as it only has 100k on it)...
just a thought, but for $10 it's worth a shot

kenc195
08-13-2009, 05:23 PM
The fuel filter is about 2 years or 35000 miles in my case. I will probably change it out this weekend since I'm going to be under it anyhow. As far as the codes for the O2 Sensor. It;s not throwing a code but the sensor heater is not reporting in. I notice if I lightly touch the accelerator it accelerates better than if I take off normally. I think its getting to much fuel and running rich.

Cat Fuzz
08-14-2009, 02:57 AM
Your problem is not a defective o2 sensor. If there was a malfunction with the o2 sensor heater, there would be a code associated with it. The readiness monitors not being ready does not indicate that something is defective. It simply means that the conditions are not there for the self test to run on those components.

Are you trying to pass emissions or just trying to get the truck running better? Those two monitors showing not ready do not have any affect on how the engine runs.

kenc195
08-14-2009, 12:58 PM
I'm just trying to get it to run better. It takes 10 seconds to cross an intersection and has to be in power mode to climb an overpass at 65 mph. This just started a few weeks ago.

Cat Fuzz
08-14-2009, 06:04 PM
How old are your spark plug wires? Might want to replace those. Might want to replace fuel filter and check your fuel pressure. Air filter might be plugged.

kenc195
08-14-2009, 07:05 PM
Probably the origional wires. Can they be rplace without changing the coil packs. Air filter is new and I will be changing the fuel filter this weekend. I hade the fuel injectors cleaned last week and put in new denso plugs. non of that helped

dbikers
08-15-2009, 01:44 AM
when you say 'Very very slow acceleration, steady tach at idle even when in gear and brakes on" what does the engine sound like? Is it sputtering and missing?
Are u sure it's not your trans slipping ? Just asking

kenc195
08-15-2009, 12:42 PM
The engine idles relativly smooth. I'm pretty sure its not the tranny because having the AC on or off makes a diffrence in the acceleration. Running mostly off these days and I live in AZ so its hot

kenc195
08-17-2009, 07:49 PM
ok, new fuel filter, checked electrical & vacuum lines, checked the air intake for any blockage. This is the 4th tank of gas so I don't think it's bad gas or water. Nothing.

What are the chances the timing belt jumped a tooth? Would that throw a code? Would a bad coil pack throw a code? I bought a code reader so I wouldn't have to keep running to the zone.

Cat Fuzz
08-17-2009, 08:48 PM
A bad coil pack should show up with a misfire code.

In theory, a timing belt that has skipped should also show as a misfire but not always. It's fairly easy to pull the upper timing covers to check timing mark alignment. You can use the timing mark on the lower cover to line up the crank pulley.

kenc195
08-19-2009, 01:16 PM
It died in traffic last night and got the hook. At the time is would start, rumble around 400-600 rpm and die. A couple of time I could coax it up to normal RPM and rev it but as soon as I put it in drive it died.

Now in the hands of a professional and I will update the results

kenc195
08-19-2009, 01:21 PM
It died in traffic last night and got the hook. At the time is would start, rumble around 400-600 rpm and die. A couple of time I could coax it up to normal RPM and rev it but as soon as I put it in drive it died.

Now in the hands of a professional and I will update the results

eddiej1104
09-23-2009, 04:17 AM
sounds like what was happing to mine you may want to check ur timing put a timing light to it and see if its off then check for excessive play in the crankshaft pulley if ur good with those then idk if not check the timing belt sprocket and the key for any damage

Cat Fuzz
09-23-2009, 01:48 PM
A plugged catalytic converter could cause these problems.

FL 3.2L
09-23-2009, 08:00 PM
I think you'd get the camshaft position sensor code if it were out of time.

I might have started with a pair of front O2 sensors if they are original. I see Cat Fuzz thinks yours are good, though. Hmmm. Curious to hear the answer. I wonder what a fuel pressure test would show.

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