4L60-E Rebuild??

Got a 96 chevy suburban 5.7 2wd. 240,000miles and engine still strong.. Lost reverse on the way to the job site. Getting on freeway tranny made a loud noise followed by a pop. (sounded like i ran over a dog) wont go into reverse now. rpm's get high with a pop out of first into second.. rest of the gears seem ok. but no response when put in reverse.. not even an rpm change. Fluid is full, a little darker than usual.. should i completely rebuild? or could it be something else?? not familliar with transmission guts, but love to play under hood...

These trannys are known for physically breaking the ring gear on one of the planetary gear sets. It sounds as if you have such a problem, or a breakage in another 'hard part'.

Modern automatic transmissions are bewilderingly complex, much ore so than the old 3-speed autos used in older cars.

The problem with rebuilding yours on you own is your expenses will be high enough to pay for a professionally rebuilt transmission.

You will need a rebuild manual, a specialized spring compressor tool, a rebuild kit and often, several new 'hard' parts. Factor in your time and you are easily into the $900 - 1400 price for a rebuilt one, which will have a guarentee.

I would suggest, if you want to get dirty, pull the trans yourself, but get a rebuilt one on exchange.

Don't rebuild yours. It may not be rebuildable, even by a pro. There may be severe damage or wear (from your high mileage) which will increase your rebuild costs. If you drove it for a while when broken, the trans has probably pumped metal shavings throughout all moving parts, which has problably damaged many components.

You can rebuild a good case for under $200.00 with all new friction surfaces, seals, and bushings. As stated, if there is case damage or other hard parts have failed, the cost ratchets up.

You might want to take a look at what is involved here:

http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60ERepairs.html

I would try getting one from your local junkyard. Most J/Ys give a 90 day warranty on drive train parts. They are not all that hard to replace.

I believe that the 700R4 might work for you too.

Only a 1996-2002 4L60E will be a plug-in replacement. A TH700-4 isn't even close except for the bolt pattern and length. The 4-3 solenoid, TCC solenoid, and PWM solenoids varied through the years and other years' units won't be compatible with your PCM. Even the VSS changed in late 1995.

A repair kit can be had for as little as $130, and there are really no special tools or spring compressor required. The reverse servo springs can be compressed with a standard puller beam and threaded rod. The pump assembly can be removed with a screwdriver. A selection of snap ring pliers and standard lock ring pliers are the only "special" tools necessary, aside from a good rebuild manual ($20).

Thanks alot for the info.. this damn opera house my company's building hasnt givin me a day off since my first post so i have only jacked up the truck.. since i need to replace my callipers and rotors I think Im going to wait n look for rebuilt tranny but tear into mine to see just what goes on and hell maybe it will be something obvious... thanks

Another part to check is the sunshell also known for breaking or stripping the teeth out.Also do this upgrade,throw away the 5 black springs in the direct drum.Aftermarket found out they restrict the clutches from floating and burn up clutches.The clutches work a whole lot better without those 5 black springs.

Another part to check is the sunshell also known for breaking or stripping the teeth out.Also do this upgrade,throw away the 5 black springs in the direct drum.Aftermarket found out they restrict the clutches from floating and burn up clutches.The clutches work a whole lot better without those 5 black springs.

If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say this is his problem - reaction sun shell. As you said, either the hub breaks off or the splines strip clean out. I'd invest in an SPX/Filtran "Beast" sun shell, it's about $10 more than the stock part and is much tougher.

This is the way I went back in '06 when I had a sun shell failure on my '88 9C1 (4L60). It's been fine ever since.

When this part fails, you lose reverse, 2nd (the high RPM indicates loss of 2nd and direct to 3rd), and overdrive.

The breast sunshell does break and I know a transmission shop that can prove it.They have seen them broken.The 4L60E came out in 1993 and 1996 is by itself

I also have a broken "Beast" sunshell. Be very careful, since some of the "Beast" shells come in boxes with that label from China, and are no more robust than the factory stamped shell. If you get an SPX/Filtran or Transtar shell (made in Cleveland) you will not have any problems.

I'll have to disagree with the above comment regarding "the Beast" sun shell in comparison to others I have found "the Beast" to perform just as well if not better then other aftermarket sun shells on the market today. Even though "the Beast" can be a little more expensive... in my experience (over 20 years rebuilding GM transmissions" it is the best on the market.

I buy most of my rebuild parts from www.gmtransmissionparts.com so here is the link to their part:

http://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/The-Beast-Genuine-Aftermarket-Sun-Gear-Shell-w-Washer-4L60E-1011.htm

I hope this helps!!