car wont stay running

The other day I was out with friends and my car just suddenly died while driving into the parking lot. Tried to start it up but didn't want to turn over. since i live in a town with hot weather i thought just letting it cool off for about an hour and maybe try again.
Still didn't want to turn over, but when i would crank it and step on the gas it would stay on but i would have to keep my foot on the gas, and that's how I drove home with one foot on the brake the other on the gas so the car wouldn't die on me when I would come to a stop. Driving around the freeway it feels normal no loss of power or struggling only when I come to a stop.
Next day checked the IAC and works fine. Also saw a coolant leak and got that fixed and changed the temp sensor. Started the car and everything seemed fine until i put it in gear and it was doing it again had to keep my foot on the gas whenever i came to a stop, got back home and the car again would not start checked my boost gauge and it was showing that I have a vacuum leak that didn't show the day before. Looked at all my hoses and could' t find or hear a leak.
Does anyone know what else i can check?
Throughout this whole time the CEL hasn't come on.

now there could be a better fix, lol, just to make that clear, but if you want to fix it for now until you get it fixed later(or find a better answer) you could just adjust the throttle cable so that it idles slightly higher than usual...

worked for me in the past...

but like i say, keep searching for the "correct" answer, this is just a temp fix...you need to still find the culprit

:grinyes:

The best way to find a vacuum leak is to make a cap for right on your turbo where the intake normally goes and charge it with an air compressor. (While the car is off of course) Once you put boost to the system you should be able to hear any obvious leaks. I would check that first. Here is a writeup on doing it...

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

OK, I installed a new fuel filter, new spark plugs, cleaned out the throttle body, took it for a run and it still would die on me at a stop, I checked my gauge and it showed me no leak. I bypassed the gauge to see if it would work but it still dies. I got tired of it so i adjusted the BISS screw and for the meantime the car runs fine.

CEL came on today p0400 EGR malfunction. ordered it should be here tomorrow

ok new problem now. after i installed the new EGR valve i had to adjust the BISS screw and everything seemed fine. once driven for a long time the car idles high around 1500-2000 at idle while in park.
if put into gear the idle drops back down to about 1000. but this only happens when its hot. i checked out my boost gauge while in park and stepped on it and it shows that i have a leak, but when driving there is no problem it boosts fine!!!
i've already checked the IAC tested the TPS. do the readings have to be exact as in the instructions on vfaq? mine are 4.5 and when i move the throttle it reads .6 to 4.6. because i read that it has to be .9 to 5 or are my readings ok?

the only thing i need to try is a vacuum leak test which i need to build one, but does anyone know anything else that could be causing the problem?

i checked out my boost gauge while in park and stepped on it and it shows that i have a leak, but when driving there is no problem it boosts fine!!!


How does this prove you have a vac leak?

How does this prove you have a vac leak?

I had this same question and I lost internet connection as I was posting it and forgot to come back to it.

usually as i step on the gas the needle goes up to normal(0), but when i step on the gas the needle jumps up to about 10 vac side then drops back down to 15-20 loosing pressure while still stepping on the gas.