Restoring a 1970 T-bird
jaschancey
07-29-2009, 06:35 PM
I recently inherited a 1970 T-Bird 2 Door Landau. It was my grandmothers and she left it to me. There are a handful of cosmetic things that I will do to it further down the road, but the first thing I want to do is get it running. This car has been sitting under a carport in South Texas or in a barn in Central Texas and has not been ran in at least the last 25 years. It has the 429 Thunderjet in it. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but have a friend who is and he will be helping me do the work. I am trying to figure out:
1: What would be the first steps to restoring the drivetrain to this car? Drain the oils? Flush them out? With what?
2: Replace all the different oils? With what?
3: What would I need to do to this engine to make it run on modern day gas? If I remember right, the gas back in the days were a lot higher octane.
4: What are some modifications I could make to the engine to improve performance? Speed, acceleration?
5: Anything in particular I would need to do to the exhaust system?
6: I was also considering eventually putting an air bag suspension on this car? Any ideas if I would need to lift the car at all for additional clearance?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I had been after my grandmother for years to sell me this car and she never would. She ended up giving it to me instead, so I want to make sure I restore it well.
Thanks,
Jason
1: What would be the first steps to restoring the drivetrain to this car? Drain the oils? Flush them out? With what?
2: Replace all the different oils? With what?
3: What would I need to do to this engine to make it run on modern day gas? If I remember right, the gas back in the days were a lot higher octane.
4: What are some modifications I could make to the engine to improve performance? Speed, acceleration?
5: Anything in particular I would need to do to the exhaust system?
6: I was also considering eventually putting an air bag suspension on this car? Any ideas if I would need to lift the car at all for additional clearance?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I had been after my grandmother for years to sell me this car and she never would. She ended up giving it to me instead, so I want to make sure I restore it well.
Thanks,
Jason
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 08:28 AM
Change the motor oil first thing. Not sure of the rating but I would assume start with like 10w-30. All the other fluids can wait until you've ran the car a bit, just make sure they are full.
Make it start- there are certain parts of a motor that decay and need to be replaced so start with the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Vacuum tubing costs like 20 bucks for enough tubing to do any car so go ahead and replace all the vacuum hoses, last thing you want is to not know why it won't idle and seems to run lean. The carb will be in need of a thorough internal cleaning if its seriously been laying around 25 years. This is relatively simple yet meticulous and you can buy a gasket set for pretty much any carb at NAPA while you're picking up a can of carb cleaner.
The fuel filter is gonna get plugged up real fast, and will continue to do so for a while. So buy two, replace the original and put the other one in the trunk along with an extra pair of the couple tools required to change it, because you're gonna stall out a hundred miles down the road. Once you do that, get another spare filter.
Assuming it ran when parked it will start after doing this.
Run on modern day gas? I don't know about that one, I would say you've been misinformed. But if you're worried just run premium. If it knocks pull out some timing.
More power? Easy. Do a search for long tube equal length headers for that motor/car, put in dual exhaust, and some nice sounding flowmasters.
There should be a plethora of parts for that motor ie intake manifolds, heads, cams, rotating assemblies. A good start would be the intake manifold, its a simple install and you will see results, the manifold you want depends on what you want to do with this car, I would go with a performance dual plane manifold built for lower rpm torque, and about a 600-700 cfm aftermarket carb and if you want more get into cams next, if you call a cam company and tell them your set up and your desires they can point you in the right direction.
I'm relatively certain that has a 9-inch rear end, look around for some 4.11s, they're everywhere and they are cheap. This is the most noticeable mod you can make for acceleration.
Once you've got it moving around change the tranny fluid, I'm pretty sure those old trannies just take "auto trans fluid". Just do a pan drop change at first, auto trans sometimes don't like having all the fluid changed at once.
Do pads and shoes. Check all the brake lines for corrosion, you're from the south I see but you never know.
*GREASE THOSE ZERKS
Get under the car and look for any grease zerks on all moving suspension parts. I can't stress that enough, if the bearings have been sitting for that long you should do that before you move it next.
Make it start- there are certain parts of a motor that decay and need to be replaced so start with the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Vacuum tubing costs like 20 bucks for enough tubing to do any car so go ahead and replace all the vacuum hoses, last thing you want is to not know why it won't idle and seems to run lean. The carb will be in need of a thorough internal cleaning if its seriously been laying around 25 years. This is relatively simple yet meticulous and you can buy a gasket set for pretty much any carb at NAPA while you're picking up a can of carb cleaner.
The fuel filter is gonna get plugged up real fast, and will continue to do so for a while. So buy two, replace the original and put the other one in the trunk along with an extra pair of the couple tools required to change it, because you're gonna stall out a hundred miles down the road. Once you do that, get another spare filter.
Assuming it ran when parked it will start after doing this.
Run on modern day gas? I don't know about that one, I would say you've been misinformed. But if you're worried just run premium. If it knocks pull out some timing.
More power? Easy. Do a search for long tube equal length headers for that motor/car, put in dual exhaust, and some nice sounding flowmasters.
There should be a plethora of parts for that motor ie intake manifolds, heads, cams, rotating assemblies. A good start would be the intake manifold, its a simple install and you will see results, the manifold you want depends on what you want to do with this car, I would go with a performance dual plane manifold built for lower rpm torque, and about a 600-700 cfm aftermarket carb and if you want more get into cams next, if you call a cam company and tell them your set up and your desires they can point you in the right direction.
I'm relatively certain that has a 9-inch rear end, look around for some 4.11s, they're everywhere and they are cheap. This is the most noticeable mod you can make for acceleration.
Once you've got it moving around change the tranny fluid, I'm pretty sure those old trannies just take "auto trans fluid". Just do a pan drop change at first, auto trans sometimes don't like having all the fluid changed at once.
Do pads and shoes. Check all the brake lines for corrosion, you're from the south I see but you never know.
*GREASE THOSE ZERKS
Get under the car and look for any grease zerks on all moving suspension parts. I can't stress that enough, if the bearings have been sitting for that long you should do that before you move it next.
MagicRat
07-30-2009, 03:03 PM
More power? Easy. Do a search for long tube equal length headers for that motor/car, put in dual exhaust, and some nice sounding flowmasters.
There should be a plethora of parts for that motor ie intake manifolds, heads, cams, rotating assemblies. A good start would be the intake manifold, its a simple install and you will see results, the manifold you want depends on what you want to do with this car, I would go with a performance dual plane manifold built for lower rpm torque, and about a 600-700 cfm aftermarket carb and if you want more get into cams next, if you call a cam company and tell them your set up and your desires they can point you in the right direction.
I'm relatively certain that has a 9-inch rear end, look around for some 4.11s, they're everywhere and they are cheap. This is the most noticeable mod you can make for acceleration.
Once you've got it moving around change the tranny fluid, I'm pretty sure those old trannies just take "auto trans fluid". Just do a pan drop change at first, auto trans sometimes don't like having all the fluid changed at once.
.
Bob's advice is generally good but flawed in some areas.
First, before you attempt to start the car, yo umust make sure the pistons and rings have not become corroded to the cylinder wall.
Remove the plugs, pour a few ounces of automatic trans fluid down each cylinder and let it sit for a few days. Then put a big wrench on the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine and gently try to turn it over, If its stuck or stiff, rock the wrench back and forth. If its bad it may take a long time to break it loose. Don't force it, because you may break the piston rings if you do, then the engine will need major work.
There are NO headers for this car. The engine has a really tight fit. The best you can do is find some 429/460 V8 Cobra Jet exhaust manifolds. You might find some 460 V8 shorty headers to fit, but I doubt it, sonce most of those were made to fit the 460 engine in trucks, where there is lots of room. However, the stock manifolds are really pretty good as-is.
Right now, the car has an Autolite 4bbl rated at 613 cfm. This is an excellent carburetor for a stock engine. The stock cast - iron manifold is an excellent design, but will not accept most aftermarket carbs... because it limits the size of the throttle blades that will fit. Small 600 cfm Holly carbs will fit, but will not provide any improvement over the stock carb.
There are a variety of aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds intended for the 460 engine which will fit and will accept any aftermarket 4bbl. But I would suggest only consider this once the car is on the road and only if you think it really needs more power.
The 429 Ford engine is one of the best to come out of the 1960's.It is a large displacement, big-bore, short stroke engine that not only produces ample torque but also revs out nicely. When tuned right it is very responsive, smooth and will hurl that car down the highway as fast as you want to go.
Once its running and tuned properly, you could try an open-element air cleaner and free-flowing mufflers. Otherwise, the engine is a real power-house.
You can try an aftermarket cam, but the existing rocker arms and arm studs limit what cams you can use, without additional mods.
Do NOT put 4:11 gears in it. All this will do is ruin the car for any driving over 40 mph. These engines produce great low-end torque, so any over-gearing will ruin that advantage.
The stock rear end in this car will be either 2.80:1 or 3.00:1. Either rear is fine.
Do NOT put any old automatic transmission fluid in this car. Do NOT use Dexron II or III . This fluid will make this trans slip like crazy.
This trans is a Ford C6, which is an excellent, super-strong design. But it MUST use Type F fluid, which is still available from many auto parts stores.
I do agree that a fluid and filter change is a must. If the pan has no magnet inside, (it should) get a transmission magnet and put it in the pan.
Instead of waiting for your fuel filter to become clogged, drop the tank and wash it out inside with a high pressure washer. If its rusty, you can have the tank chemically boiled-out and coated so it will not rust again. However, the stock fuel filter is really tiny. An large,aftermarket in-line fuel filter is a good idea.
If you like, PM me with any other questions. I have a '68 T-bird Landau couple with a 429 - mechanically the car is virtually identical to yours. I bought mine 20 years ago, and it had sat unused for 17 years at the time.
I have done lots of research over the past 20 years on these cars and I know them pretty well.
I think you have a really unique piece there. Low mileage, unmodified little-old-lady classic T-birds are super rare. Around here, all these cars rusted away 30 years ago, so pleasebe aware of the rarity and value of your car, before you start modding it. :)
There should be a plethora of parts for that motor ie intake manifolds, heads, cams, rotating assemblies. A good start would be the intake manifold, its a simple install and you will see results, the manifold you want depends on what you want to do with this car, I would go with a performance dual plane manifold built for lower rpm torque, and about a 600-700 cfm aftermarket carb and if you want more get into cams next, if you call a cam company and tell them your set up and your desires they can point you in the right direction.
I'm relatively certain that has a 9-inch rear end, look around for some 4.11s, they're everywhere and they are cheap. This is the most noticeable mod you can make for acceleration.
Once you've got it moving around change the tranny fluid, I'm pretty sure those old trannies just take "auto trans fluid". Just do a pan drop change at first, auto trans sometimes don't like having all the fluid changed at once.
.
Bob's advice is generally good but flawed in some areas.
First, before you attempt to start the car, yo umust make sure the pistons and rings have not become corroded to the cylinder wall.
Remove the plugs, pour a few ounces of automatic trans fluid down each cylinder and let it sit for a few days. Then put a big wrench on the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine and gently try to turn it over, If its stuck or stiff, rock the wrench back and forth. If its bad it may take a long time to break it loose. Don't force it, because you may break the piston rings if you do, then the engine will need major work.
There are NO headers for this car. The engine has a really tight fit. The best you can do is find some 429/460 V8 Cobra Jet exhaust manifolds. You might find some 460 V8 shorty headers to fit, but I doubt it, sonce most of those were made to fit the 460 engine in trucks, where there is lots of room. However, the stock manifolds are really pretty good as-is.
Right now, the car has an Autolite 4bbl rated at 613 cfm. This is an excellent carburetor for a stock engine. The stock cast - iron manifold is an excellent design, but will not accept most aftermarket carbs... because it limits the size of the throttle blades that will fit. Small 600 cfm Holly carbs will fit, but will not provide any improvement over the stock carb.
There are a variety of aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds intended for the 460 engine which will fit and will accept any aftermarket 4bbl. But I would suggest only consider this once the car is on the road and only if you think it really needs more power.
The 429 Ford engine is one of the best to come out of the 1960's.It is a large displacement, big-bore, short stroke engine that not only produces ample torque but also revs out nicely. When tuned right it is very responsive, smooth and will hurl that car down the highway as fast as you want to go.
Once its running and tuned properly, you could try an open-element air cleaner and free-flowing mufflers. Otherwise, the engine is a real power-house.
You can try an aftermarket cam, but the existing rocker arms and arm studs limit what cams you can use, without additional mods.
Do NOT put 4:11 gears in it. All this will do is ruin the car for any driving over 40 mph. These engines produce great low-end torque, so any over-gearing will ruin that advantage.
The stock rear end in this car will be either 2.80:1 or 3.00:1. Either rear is fine.
Do NOT put any old automatic transmission fluid in this car. Do NOT use Dexron II or III . This fluid will make this trans slip like crazy.
This trans is a Ford C6, which is an excellent, super-strong design. But it MUST use Type F fluid, which is still available from many auto parts stores.
I do agree that a fluid and filter change is a must. If the pan has no magnet inside, (it should) get a transmission magnet and put it in the pan.
Instead of waiting for your fuel filter to become clogged, drop the tank and wash it out inside with a high pressure washer. If its rusty, you can have the tank chemically boiled-out and coated so it will not rust again. However, the stock fuel filter is really tiny. An large,aftermarket in-line fuel filter is a good idea.
If you like, PM me with any other questions. I have a '68 T-bird Landau couple with a 429 - mechanically the car is virtually identical to yours. I bought mine 20 years ago, and it had sat unused for 17 years at the time.
I have done lots of research over the past 20 years on these cars and I know them pretty well.
I think you have a really unique piece there. Low mileage, unmodified little-old-lady classic T-birds are super rare. Around here, all these cars rusted away 30 years ago, so pleasebe aware of the rarity and value of your car, before you start modding it. :)
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 03:39 PM
X-/ doh! I forgot about the possibility of a seize up...
And the with the 4.11s I was using big car with 4.6/302/351 logic yeah now that you mention it 4.11s behind a 429 would blow the tires clean off and 3000 rpm at cruising speed would be hard in a big block
Oh I had assumed this was a torino based bird now that I look into it nope.... No headers... :-/
As for the magnet for the pan, I just picked up 50 dime sized "rare earth" magnets off ebay for 5 dollars, they have like 5 lbs of pull each and I stuck 5 of them on each oil filter I own (just remember that they are there next time you get your oil changed) and a couple on the back of the dif drain plug.
And the with the 4.11s I was using big car with 4.6/302/351 logic yeah now that you mention it 4.11s behind a 429 would blow the tires clean off and 3000 rpm at cruising speed would be hard in a big block
Oh I had assumed this was a torino based bird now that I look into it nope.... No headers... :-/
As for the magnet for the pan, I just picked up 50 dime sized "rare earth" magnets off ebay for 5 dollars, they have like 5 lbs of pull each and I stuck 5 of them on each oil filter I own (just remember that they are there next time you get your oil changed) and a couple on the back of the dif drain plug.
MagicRat
07-30-2009, 04:01 PM
Good advice, Bob.
The 1967 - 71 T-bird chassis was shared only with the Lincoln Mark III, and was different than anything else. It did share front and rear suspension with the Ford Galaxie from the late '60's... One can get high performance Galaxie shocks, springs and sway bars that will fit this car.
A couple of other things.... these engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio. Use only 93 octane premium unleaded. At times, though, I had to use 91 octane premium, in which case, I added an octane booster additive to the gas as well.
Also, I recommend using a lead substitute fuel additive.
Up to 1970, most domestic cars did not have hardened valve seats. The lead present in gasoline served to prevent the valves (especially the exhaust valves) from wearing out their valve seats prematurely. Many people don't bother with this stuff if the cars are rarely driven, though.
Check out the front suspension. Ball joints of that time did not seem to last more than 50k miles, so, unless yours have already been done, they might be pretty loose. Also, check out the rubber bushings on the front suspension radius rods. Chances are they are pooched, which will do odd things to the alignment and steering. They are easy to replace, though.
Finally, if you ever change the timing chain and sprockets, do NOT use ordinary components. All new stock-replacement timing chain sets retard the cam timing (for emissions reasons), which reduces power and throttle response a bit. It's best to get a high performance timing chain set intended for a Ford 460 which has a provision for advancing the cam timing. You will want to advance it about 3 degrees. This will closely match the stock cam timing that Ford used in 1968 - 1970.
The 1967 - 71 T-bird chassis was shared only with the Lincoln Mark III, and was different than anything else. It did share front and rear suspension with the Ford Galaxie from the late '60's... One can get high performance Galaxie shocks, springs and sway bars that will fit this car.
A couple of other things.... these engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio. Use only 93 octane premium unleaded. At times, though, I had to use 91 octane premium, in which case, I added an octane booster additive to the gas as well.
Also, I recommend using a lead substitute fuel additive.
Up to 1970, most domestic cars did not have hardened valve seats. The lead present in gasoline served to prevent the valves (especially the exhaust valves) from wearing out their valve seats prematurely. Many people don't bother with this stuff if the cars are rarely driven, though.
Check out the front suspension. Ball joints of that time did not seem to last more than 50k miles, so, unless yours have already been done, they might be pretty loose. Also, check out the rubber bushings on the front suspension radius rods. Chances are they are pooched, which will do odd things to the alignment and steering. They are easy to replace, though.
Finally, if you ever change the timing chain and sprockets, do NOT use ordinary components. All new stock-replacement timing chain sets retard the cam timing (for emissions reasons), which reduces power and throttle response a bit. It's best to get a high performance timing chain set intended for a Ford 460 which has a provision for advancing the cam timing. You will want to advance it about 3 degrees. This will closely match the stock cam timing that Ford used in 1968 - 1970.
97Bird
07-30-2009, 06:14 PM
Welcome to the forum, jaschancey.
Great advice. Instead of just a few ounces of ATF in the cylinders, I have filled them with ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil and then let it set for a few days. If any rust has developed on the cylinder walls, the oil will soak into it and hopefully will help prevent damage to the rings and pistons when you turn it over.
Gently rock the engine back and forth (it may take several days before you can turn it over a full 360d). As MajicRat stated-don't force it! Of course you leave the plugs out while trying to turn it over. The oil level in the cylinders will go down as the rings free up, if they are stuck to the cylinder walls. If you don't wait for the oil to seep past the rings you will get a lot coming out of the spark plug holes so keep a couple of drain pans under the engine. I get the rectangular aluminum roasting pans that sell for a couple of bucks each for this.
Once it is free, use the starter to spin it over for 5-10 seconds, again with the plugs out. This wil push any remaining oil out of the cylinders. I should note that you should clean all battery cables and associated connections including relay and starter before this.
Next it's time to drain and replace the oil and filter. Let it drain overnight or at least several hours. Now go buy new plugs, points, condenser and install them. Buy Motorcraft BF42 plugs and gap them at 0.034". The points are set to 0.021" and the timing set at 6 degrees BTDC.
Once it starts it's going to smoke like you wouldn't believe but if the rings aren't stuck or broken it should clear up or at least lessen over time. Be sure to keep an eye on the water temp as it is running.
If the brake lines are in good shape then flush all of the fluid. You're going to need to start soaking the bleeder screws several days before attempting to turn them!
Good luck with your great project.
Great advice. Instead of just a few ounces of ATF in the cylinders, I have filled them with ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil and then let it set for a few days. If any rust has developed on the cylinder walls, the oil will soak into it and hopefully will help prevent damage to the rings and pistons when you turn it over.
Gently rock the engine back and forth (it may take several days before you can turn it over a full 360d). As MajicRat stated-don't force it! Of course you leave the plugs out while trying to turn it over. The oil level in the cylinders will go down as the rings free up, if they are stuck to the cylinder walls. If you don't wait for the oil to seep past the rings you will get a lot coming out of the spark plug holes so keep a couple of drain pans under the engine. I get the rectangular aluminum roasting pans that sell for a couple of bucks each for this.
Once it is free, use the starter to spin it over for 5-10 seconds, again with the plugs out. This wil push any remaining oil out of the cylinders. I should note that you should clean all battery cables and associated connections including relay and starter before this.
Next it's time to drain and replace the oil and filter. Let it drain overnight or at least several hours. Now go buy new plugs, points, condenser and install them. Buy Motorcraft BF42 plugs and gap them at 0.034". The points are set to 0.021" and the timing set at 6 degrees BTDC.
Once it starts it's going to smoke like you wouldn't believe but if the rings aren't stuck or broken it should clear up or at least lessen over time. Be sure to keep an eye on the water temp as it is running.
If the brake lines are in good shape then flush all of the fluid. You're going to need to start soaking the bleeder screws several days before attempting to turn them!
Good luck with your great project.
jaschancey
07-30-2009, 09:49 PM
Thanks everybody for the info. This gives me a pretty good place to start. Like I said I am not much of a mechanic nor do I pretend to know the lingo. But, luckily I know how to copy and paste everything you guys said and give a print out of it to the mechanic that will be helping me out with this project. He should be able to translate the little bit of stuff that I don't follow to well. This car does have a lot of sentimental value to me, since it is the only thing I have of my grandparents. My mom actually gave up her 1965 T-bird in 1970 so my grandparents could trade it in on this particular car. Man I tell you it is a boat and a half. I've got a question for you guys, since there seems to be a pretty steady stream of knowledge about this particular car. There was an option to have power bucket seats instead of the power bench seat. Do any of you know if the bucket seats allowed for more head room? I am a pretty large guy about 6'2, 250 and my head will rub the top of the hood when I am sitting on the bench seat. If I lean forward just a little bit, I actually have to hunch to keep from plastering my head into the ceiling. Bottom line, I need more head clearance, any way this is possible?
Thanks again for all the info,
Jason
Thanks again for all the info,
Jason
jaschancey
07-30-2009, 10:05 PM
Here are the pics of the car after I went and picked it up. At this point it had been sitting in a barn for about 10 years. Before that it was sitting under a carport for 15 to 20 years.
37835
37836
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37838
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37835
37836
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37839
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 10:06 PM
Gorgeous
*Edit: I'm super jealous
*Edit: I'm super jealous
jaschancey
07-30-2009, 10:09 PM
Gorgeous
I don't know about that, but I figure it's not too bad of a start. I have seen people start off with vehicles in worse shape.
I don't know about that, but I figure it's not too bad of a start. I have seen people start off with vehicles in worse shape.
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 10:18 PM
I don't know about that, but I figure it's not too bad of a start. I have seen people start off with vehicles in worse shape.
I'm from Minnesota... A lot of cars look rougher than that by the time they are 10 years old, and that is a beautiful car to start a project with, being that its not a pristine original you can put your own personal touches into it without severe guilt of destroying a piece of history
I'm from Minnesota... A lot of cars look rougher than that by the time they are 10 years old, and that is a beautiful car to start a project with, being that its not a pristine original you can put your own personal touches into it without severe guilt of destroying a piece of history
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 10:24 PM
:lol: I am already trying to decide what rims to tell you that you should buy...
jaschancey
07-30-2009, 10:33 PM
Well I was already excited about it to begin with, but now you've got me even more pumped. It has the original hubcaps in the trunk and they are shiny enough to comb your hair in. But I am with you, I am trying to figure out what rims to go with one of these days. I saw another 70 2door landau that had 20's on the rear and 18's on the front. 5 spoke that looked really sharp. I've got more plans than money will allow at the moment. But I'll get it running like a champ before I dive into the cosmetics.
Bob9646
07-30-2009, 10:46 PM
Wow 20s and 18s? That sounds like chip FOOSE styling.
I would lean more towards 16-17
But yes most def go>show
I would lean more towards 16-17
But yes most def go>show
jaschancey
08-07-2009, 12:32 AM
Good news. I thought last night I was going to have no choice but to go the crate engine route. But tonight, I got the engine to move. Then hooked up jumper cables and actually got the car to turn over. I am pumped. I nearly wet my pants. I thought everything was for sure locked up, but I did like ya'll said and gently rocked back and forth and it finally started moving. It moved a little more and next thing you know it got a full revolution. I'm ready to quit my job and start working on this car full time. Thanks for the help so far, I'm sure I am going to need more.
Bob9646
08-07-2009, 12:58 PM
So, what became of the "completely gone" frost plugs?
jaschancey
08-08-2009, 07:40 PM
Nothing yet. We are going to see if we can get the engine going first. We'll have to replace a few things before that happens. If we can get it to run for 10 seconds, to troubleshoot any other problems, then we are going to pull the entire engine and start rebuilding. Once we pull it, I'll replace the freeze plugs with brass ones. Hopefully these will last a few years. I'll keep ya'll updated.
jaschancey
08-13-2009, 09:00 AM
For the first time in about 30 years, the old girl ran for just a little bit. We replaced the coil, the condenser and the points and tested the voltage. Everything checked out so we pushed a little oil around with the pump and let her fly. She fired up and ran for 10 seconds or so. Then transmission fluid ran out on to the floor from a busted line so we had to shut her down. Tonight we will go ahead and pull the engine and the transmission. Maybe this weekend I will try to tackle the fuel tank. For the 10 seconds she ran, she sounded good. No misses. The no exhaust system, probably helped the sound.
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