Nissan GT-R R32 w/ Rb26DETT
MPWR
07-28-2009, 01:52 PM
By now, most of you are probably aware of Gionc's new RB26 kit (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=955528). I've been fortunate enough to be able to watch the development of this project, and often I get to be Gio's technical editor/beta tester. (I even contributed one mastered part to this kit. :rolleyes:) But now that the kit is available, I'm actually going to build one.
As a proof of concept, I'm going to build Tamiya's GT-R R32 around it. This is one of those older kits from back when cars were much cooler than they are today, and Tamiya still made kits of them. I've always had a bit of a thing for I6 engines, and the late 80s is maybe my very favorite period of automotive history- so this kit was a bit of a no-brainer for me. I'd really like to build the hell out of this one, but we'll see where it takes me. ;)
Tamiya's R32 does of course come with a full engine, and a rather decent one at that. Yeah, it's a bit redundant maybe to cram an engine transkit into a kit with an engine. But of course the Tamiya kit does leave plenty of room for improvement, and it will be of course a bit easier to reengine this kit than to put one into Tamiya's curbside R33 or R34 (a future forthcoming project). Plus, this could make for one seriously sweet R32. :sunglasse So, on to the surgery.
This is Tamiya's engine and transmission.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-1.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-2.jpg
Nothing wrong here, but that block does look kinda plain. The transmission will need to be used, but the block can go!
And here it is with the replacement.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-3.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-4.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-5.jpg
A night and day difference really. (And while the block alone is a vast improvement, the real fun will be the turbos. :sunglasse)
The block gets epoxied onto the kit transmission.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-6.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-7.jpg
Personally, I hate epoxy- especially the 5 min stuff in those syringe type dispensers. But in this application, nothing else will work. The bond with the tranny must be bulletproof- but fortunately it goes together very easily- the new part perfectly fits the footprint of the removed block. Didn't even stick my fingers together (permanently).
So far so good, more to come soon. :thumbsup:
As a proof of concept, I'm going to build Tamiya's GT-R R32 around it. This is one of those older kits from back when cars were much cooler than they are today, and Tamiya still made kits of them. I've always had a bit of a thing for I6 engines, and the late 80s is maybe my very favorite period of automotive history- so this kit was a bit of a no-brainer for me. I'd really like to build the hell out of this one, but we'll see where it takes me. ;)
Tamiya's R32 does of course come with a full engine, and a rather decent one at that. Yeah, it's a bit redundant maybe to cram an engine transkit into a kit with an engine. But of course the Tamiya kit does leave plenty of room for improvement, and it will be of course a bit easier to reengine this kit than to put one into Tamiya's curbside R33 or R34 (a future forthcoming project). Plus, this could make for one seriously sweet R32. :sunglasse So, on to the surgery.
This is Tamiya's engine and transmission.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-1.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-2.jpg
Nothing wrong here, but that block does look kinda plain. The transmission will need to be used, but the block can go!
And here it is with the replacement.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-3.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-4.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-5.jpg
A night and day difference really. (And while the block alone is a vast improvement, the real fun will be the turbos. :sunglasse)
The block gets epoxied onto the kit transmission.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-6.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-7.jpg
Personally, I hate epoxy- especially the 5 min stuff in those syringe type dispensers. But in this application, nothing else will work. The bond with the tranny must be bulletproof- but fortunately it goes together very easily- the new part perfectly fits the footprint of the removed block. Didn't even stick my fingers together (permanently).
So far so good, more to come soon. :thumbsup:
drunken monkey
07-28-2009, 02:05 PM
so...
how's that 993 coming again?
no wait, I mean, great start!
This may not be too hard to believe but I also have a few GT-Rs that I've ben resisting the urge to build.
how's that 993 coming again?
no wait, I mean, great start!
This may not be too hard to believe but I also have a few GT-Rs that I've ben resisting the urge to build.
ddtham
07-28-2009, 02:29 PM
Andy's building again!!! Anything planned for the R32 besides engine?
MPWR
07-28-2009, 03:28 PM
so...
how's that 993 coming again?
Lately I haven't had the opportunity to spend the time on it that I would like to (or much of anything else). But I think once I get a set of hubs machined for the brakes/wheels, it should come together pretty easily.
Andy's building again!!! Anything planned for the R32 besides engine? Stranger things happen (occasionally). I'm trying to keep my ambitions in check on this one, so that hopefully I don't get hung up on some problematic detail. So far the only fearsome thing on this one may be the intake/exhaust train. Otherwise, a lightly tuned street car. Maybe lowered just a tad, and some BBS's to go on it. But I've already got some nice little machined bits done for the engine. :rolleyes:
how's that 993 coming again?
Lately I haven't had the opportunity to spend the time on it that I would like to (or much of anything else). But I think once I get a set of hubs machined for the brakes/wheels, it should come together pretty easily.
Andy's building again!!! Anything planned for the R32 besides engine? Stranger things happen (occasionally). I'm trying to keep my ambitions in check on this one, so that hopefully I don't get hung up on some problematic detail. So far the only fearsome thing on this one may be the intake/exhaust train. Otherwise, a lightly tuned street car. Maybe lowered just a tad, and some BBS's to go on it. But I've already got some nice little machined bits done for the engine. :rolleyes:
MidMazar
07-28-2009, 04:41 PM
Can't wait to be an owner of one of these myself!! More progress please, also what partsw did you machine for the motor?
MPWR
07-28-2009, 04:55 PM
So the next trick is to get the engine to sit in the bay properly.
The engine in the R32 sits canted to the left slightly. These are the kit parts for the engine mount and front subframe.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-8.jpg
Unfortunately, the engine mounts included with the transkit hold the engine in a level attitude- and cannot easily be used to hold the engine in a suitable position (note the angle here between the engine mounts and subframe- note the engine is resting on the oil pan, which holds it at the proper cant angle).
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-9.jpg
Fortunately, Tamiya designed the oil pan so that it would help hold the engine in position. The locator pin between the drive half shafts is supposed to rest on the subframe- which provides a very nice position reference.
I'm using BlueTac to hold things in place for test fitting. Lots of BlueTac.
BlueTac here-
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-11.jpg
BlueTac there-
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-12.jpg
-and BlueTac on the subrame.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-13.jpg
So this is how the engine should sit- and how hopefully the engine mounts will hold it. I cut apart the kit engine mounts to see if they could be used.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-14.jpg
Put in place on the new engine, they are pretty close.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-15.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-16.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-17.jpg
A little bit of shimming to improve the fit should be all they will need. I also added some brass pins to align with the holes on the block and to give some added strength.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-18.jpg
Glued in place. Again epoxy- nothing else will work here and have the strength necessary.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-19.jpg
Perfect. They hold the engine in place accurately and rigidly, without the need for the oil pan to support everything.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-20.jpg
Now to see if everything will fit together in the engine bay (it does feel a bit strange to be putting an engine in the front of a car.:rolleyes:) This is a 'preproduction' set I got from Gio, to help him put together the instructions. I didn't get all of the parts that come with the production set, such as the large factory style valve cover that sits atop the engine. But one thing that Gio did include were the small individual camshaft covers usually seen on racing RB26s. I'm seriously considering using them instead- to help give the engine a more 'high strung' look. So, this is how the block looks with the head and camcovers in place- and this is about as large as the engine itself will be. Looks like it fits!
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-23.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-22.jpg
Of course the real test is whether or not I can get the bonnet closed over it. Tamiya included a clear bonnet on the windows and headlights sprue. Seems a bit odd, but I suppose it made sense to organize the parts this way. Yet it's impossible not to think of leaving ti clear when the model is finished. A bit like those all transparent kits Tamiya has occasionally done- or like the engine windows that Ferrari is so fond of these days. I suppose it presents options be considered.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-24.jpg
But happily, it fits in place over the engine with no trouble.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-25.jpg
Now that I know it all fits, it's time to get with the painting and detailing! :naughty:
The engine in the R32 sits canted to the left slightly. These are the kit parts for the engine mount and front subframe.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-8.jpg
Unfortunately, the engine mounts included with the transkit hold the engine in a level attitude- and cannot easily be used to hold the engine in a suitable position (note the angle here between the engine mounts and subframe- note the engine is resting on the oil pan, which holds it at the proper cant angle).
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-9.jpg
Fortunately, Tamiya designed the oil pan so that it would help hold the engine in position. The locator pin between the drive half shafts is supposed to rest on the subframe- which provides a very nice position reference.
I'm using BlueTac to hold things in place for test fitting. Lots of BlueTac.
BlueTac here-
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-11.jpg
BlueTac there-
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-12.jpg
-and BlueTac on the subrame.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-13.jpg
So this is how the engine should sit- and how hopefully the engine mounts will hold it. I cut apart the kit engine mounts to see if they could be used.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-14.jpg
Put in place on the new engine, they are pretty close.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-15.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-16.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-17.jpg
A little bit of shimming to improve the fit should be all they will need. I also added some brass pins to align with the holes on the block and to give some added strength.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-18.jpg
Glued in place. Again epoxy- nothing else will work here and have the strength necessary.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-19.jpg
Perfect. They hold the engine in place accurately and rigidly, without the need for the oil pan to support everything.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-20.jpg
Now to see if everything will fit together in the engine bay (it does feel a bit strange to be putting an engine in the front of a car.:rolleyes:) This is a 'preproduction' set I got from Gio, to help him put together the instructions. I didn't get all of the parts that come with the production set, such as the large factory style valve cover that sits atop the engine. But one thing that Gio did include were the small individual camshaft covers usually seen on racing RB26s. I'm seriously considering using them instead- to help give the engine a more 'high strung' look. So, this is how the block looks with the head and camcovers in place- and this is about as large as the engine itself will be. Looks like it fits!
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-23.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-22.jpg
Of course the real test is whether or not I can get the bonnet closed over it. Tamiya included a clear bonnet on the windows and headlights sprue. Seems a bit odd, but I suppose it made sense to organize the parts this way. Yet it's impossible not to think of leaving ti clear when the model is finished. A bit like those all transparent kits Tamiya has occasionally done- or like the engine windows that Ferrari is so fond of these days. I suppose it presents options be considered.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-24.jpg
But happily, it fits in place over the engine with no trouble.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-25.jpg
Now that I know it all fits, it's time to get with the painting and detailing! :naughty:
prortiz80
07-28-2009, 05:13 PM
great job on that cant wait for more
snk33y
07-28-2009, 05:15 PM
An MPWR RB26 engine and R32 build,definately following this from start to finish,I can imagine how good this is going to turn out already. Big fan of your work! I always learn something from your builds, keep up the good work!
gionc
07-30-2009, 03:33 AM
Wow Andy!!!!! This is the first of my kids I see in a GTR belly!!!! And looks like there's enough room around for big turboz ;)
What's the plan about filters? Sponge or paper?
I think exaust manifolds maybe achieved with few spare PE parts: a spare exaust turbo gasket offers a good base to start with a pipe...
What's the plan about filters? Sponge or paper?
I think exaust manifolds maybe achieved with few spare PE parts: a spare exaust turbo gasket offers a good base to start with a pipe...
tuned.by.twenty
07-30-2009, 09:37 AM
We finally get to see one of these come together! I will be watching this with great interest.
I like the look of the plain cam covers. Something different from normal scale RB26s.
I like the look of the plain cam covers. Something different from normal scale RB26s.
MPWR
07-30-2009, 06:09 PM
Thanks for your interest everyone!
Wow Andy!!!!! This is the first of my kids I see in a GTR belly!!!! And looks like there's enough room around for big turboz ;)
Then let me be the first to tell you, it fits! ;) I think the turbos will work also- I'm currently working on fitting them so that they clear the new engine mount, but there is a good amount of space to work with. I haven't checked yet, but I think I can probably fit a strut bar across the top.
Not sure about the filters- I think I will make both and see which I like more.
what parts did you machine for the motor?
I did the master for the oil filer. For my own build, I'm still thinking of options. A partial list might be camshaft wheels, belt pulleys, blowoff valves, brake master and res, shocks, shift knob, etc. It's not going to be box stock for either the engine or car kits. :grinno:
I like the look of the plain cam covers. Something different from normal scale RB26s.
I'm liking them also. I've got another build planned for a factory stock looking RB, so I may give this one a much more tuned look.
Wow Andy!!!!! This is the first of my kids I see in a GTR belly!!!! And looks like there's enough room around for big turboz ;)
Then let me be the first to tell you, it fits! ;) I think the turbos will work also- I'm currently working on fitting them so that they clear the new engine mount, but there is a good amount of space to work with. I haven't checked yet, but I think I can probably fit a strut bar across the top.
Not sure about the filters- I think I will make both and see which I like more.
what parts did you machine for the motor?
I did the master for the oil filer. For my own build, I'm still thinking of options. A partial list might be camshaft wheels, belt pulleys, blowoff valves, brake master and res, shocks, shift knob, etc. It's not going to be box stock for either the engine or car kits. :grinno:
I like the look of the plain cam covers. Something different from normal scale RB26s.
I'm liking them also. I've got another build planned for a factory stock looking RB, so I may give this one a much more tuned look.
Enilder
07-30-2009, 08:16 PM
how did you go about purchasing this item? website doesnt work :(
huge fan of RB26DETT. this is must for me! :D
huge fan of RB26DETT. this is must for me! :D
rollin80s
08-01-2009, 03:56 PM
sweet, i hoping to see someone build this engine and put it in a engine bay! one day i'll be buying this engine kit as well. can't wait to see this done.
stump
08-04-2009, 02:27 AM
how did you go about purchasing this item? website doesnt work :(
huge fan of RB26DETT. this is must for me! :D
If Gio doesn't get back to reply to you, hit me with a PM, I can pass on Gio's contact info for you..:wink: You wont be disappointed....guaranteed...:grinyes:
( I have one waiting to get built myself....:cool: )
BOT........GREAT work Andy. :thumbsup:
My first thoughts on the engine mounts were that they'd need changing..you made it look absolutely effortless mate....I'll keep that in my memory bank..:wink:
I'm loving the idea of the "racer" look twin covers myself....exposed cam gears....HELL YEAH !.........:lol:
I'll be adding mine to a Z-tune, when I get around to it...:rolleyes:
Look forward to your next installment....
huge fan of RB26DETT. this is must for me! :D
If Gio doesn't get back to reply to you, hit me with a PM, I can pass on Gio's contact info for you..:wink: You wont be disappointed....guaranteed...:grinyes:
( I have one waiting to get built myself....:cool: )
BOT........GREAT work Andy. :thumbsup:
My first thoughts on the engine mounts were that they'd need changing..you made it look absolutely effortless mate....I'll keep that in my memory bank..:wink:
I'm loving the idea of the "racer" look twin covers myself....exposed cam gears....HELL YEAH !.........:lol:
I'll be adding mine to a Z-tune, when I get around to it...:rolleyes:
Look forward to your next installment....
gionc
08-04-2009, 09:01 AM
If Gio doesn't get back to reply to you, hit me with a PM, I can pass on Gio's contact info for you..
Yes Greg: this is just what I was wondering: I'll send his engine from Italy to Australia so you'll forward him in USA... LOL!!!!
For sure I didn't sent him a PM: I guess he'll find a way to contact me if is interested :D :D :D
Yes Greg: this is just what I was wondering: I'll send his engine from Italy to Australia so you'll forward him in USA... LOL!!!!
For sure I didn't sent him a PM: I guess he'll find a way to contact me if is interested :D :D :D
stump
08-05-2009, 01:47 AM
Yes Greg: this is just what I was wondering: I'll send his engine from Italy to Australia so you'll forward him in USA... LOL!!!!
For sure I didn't sent him a PM: I guess he'll find a way to contact me if is interested :D :D :D
:lol: :lol2: Thanks Gio, I'd hoped you would chime in..:wink:
O/Topic. How have they been selling Gio ? All good :cool:
For sure I didn't sent him a PM: I guess he'll find a way to contact me if is interested :D :D :D
:lol: :lol2: Thanks Gio, I'd hoped you would chime in..:wink:
O/Topic. How have they been selling Gio ? All good :cool:
675datsun
08-14-2009, 07:30 PM
wowzers
subscribed
subscribed
joegtr
08-19-2009, 09:29 PM
i gota gota get me one of those engines lol who do i gota get in touch with ? This build is gona be great :D
MPWR
09-08-2011, 11:19 AM
Right, it's only been two years- time for an update! The weather here is crappy, so I can't fly. After months of perfect weather, this is the third straight day I've canceled for thunderstorms, and tomorrow looks much the same. So I thought I might pass the time by doing something novel, and updating a build thread!
Blue.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-26.jpg
Nissan Bayside Blue, to be exact.
Not a factory color on the R32, but it is a popular choice for repainted R32s. When I got the kit from Will (thanks again, Will!), he threw in most of a bottle of CobraColors Bayside Blue. Of course, I have bottle of Millennium Jade for the R34 I'm going to build, so the Bayside got used here. I think it looks great.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-27.jpg
Tamiya included some very nice engravings for the Nissan and GT-R emblems on the rear of the body. I covered these with BMF before paint and primer. After the paint and before the clearcoat, I gently rubbed the emblems clean with a toothpick dipped in isopropyl alcohol. The the 'R' was painted red by hand. A bit hard to photograph, but it looks terrific.
Looks like I need to clean the polishing compound gunk out of those panel lines....:rolleyes:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-28.jpg
I also CFed the hood. I'll admit, I'm not a fan of CF decals. There are many applications where I think they look completely wrong- but a large, flat even surface like a bonnet can look OK. I used ScaleMotorsports hidef. Of course, it really fought me going on....
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-29.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-30.jpg
Fortunately, the second try went better. Under a lake of clearcoat, it looks pretty good.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-31.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-32.jpg
So it's a Skyline- that means it needs to be lowered, right?? Well, maybe just a bit. Slammed is not my thing, but Tamiya R32s I've seen built look like they ride a tad high- particularly in the front.
The kit stock suspension is very nicely done- but it leaves little in the way of a good option to lower it- especially if you want it really low. If you want to retain steerable front wheels, it gets really complicated. :uhoh:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-33.jpg
But against my better judgement :rolleyes:, I decided to take an inch off of the front and ha half inch off of the rear. Realistically this is about as far as you can lower a car like a GT-R without utterly destroying the suspension geometry and therefor the handling. But even a small change can make a very nice alteration in the look.
So here's how I'm going about it. These are the front suspension support thingies from the R32. (The blue stuff on the to is Blue-Tac, used for sticking posters to walls. I use it for mocking up parts assemblies.) I reinforced them with a thick piece of Evergreen styrene strip.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-34.jpg
Now, to take off a scale inch of height. 1"/24 = just about 0.040". So, I marked that much off of the bottom edge with digital calipers.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-35.jpg
I marked the part with a black Sharpie marker, and scribed the cut line with the caliper. Then with a photoetched saw, I carefully cut along the scribed line.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-36.jpg
Here is the modified version (and now you can see why the reinforcement is necessary).
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-37.jpg
Put back into the wheel well (and stuck together with blue-tac), you can see that this allows the upright to ride 0.040" higher than it otherwise would.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-38.jpg
Of course, that leaves a gap between the bottom of the upright and the lower control arm. So, a spacer is needed to take care of the gap. I cut these spacers out of a piece of sprue. A lathe makes this kind of thing really easy. :naughty:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-39.jpg
So, how did it come out? More pics again soon.... (less than two years, I'm sure! :evillol:)
Blue.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-26.jpg
Nissan Bayside Blue, to be exact.
Not a factory color on the R32, but it is a popular choice for repainted R32s. When I got the kit from Will (thanks again, Will!), he threw in most of a bottle of CobraColors Bayside Blue. Of course, I have bottle of Millennium Jade for the R34 I'm going to build, so the Bayside got used here. I think it looks great.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-27.jpg
Tamiya included some very nice engravings for the Nissan and GT-R emblems on the rear of the body. I covered these with BMF before paint and primer. After the paint and before the clearcoat, I gently rubbed the emblems clean with a toothpick dipped in isopropyl alcohol. The the 'R' was painted red by hand. A bit hard to photograph, but it looks terrific.
Looks like I need to clean the polishing compound gunk out of those panel lines....:rolleyes:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-28.jpg
I also CFed the hood. I'll admit, I'm not a fan of CF decals. There are many applications where I think they look completely wrong- but a large, flat even surface like a bonnet can look OK. I used ScaleMotorsports hidef. Of course, it really fought me going on....
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-29.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-30.jpg
Fortunately, the second try went better. Under a lake of clearcoat, it looks pretty good.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-31.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-32.jpg
So it's a Skyline- that means it needs to be lowered, right?? Well, maybe just a bit. Slammed is not my thing, but Tamiya R32s I've seen built look like they ride a tad high- particularly in the front.
The kit stock suspension is very nicely done- but it leaves little in the way of a good option to lower it- especially if you want it really low. If you want to retain steerable front wheels, it gets really complicated. :uhoh:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-33.jpg
But against my better judgement :rolleyes:, I decided to take an inch off of the front and ha half inch off of the rear. Realistically this is about as far as you can lower a car like a GT-R without utterly destroying the suspension geometry and therefor the handling. But even a small change can make a very nice alteration in the look.
So here's how I'm going about it. These are the front suspension support thingies from the R32. (The blue stuff on the to is Blue-Tac, used for sticking posters to walls. I use it for mocking up parts assemblies.) I reinforced them with a thick piece of Evergreen styrene strip.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-34.jpg
Now, to take off a scale inch of height. 1"/24 = just about 0.040". So, I marked that much off of the bottom edge with digital calipers.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-35.jpg
I marked the part with a black Sharpie marker, and scribed the cut line with the caliper. Then with a photoetched saw, I carefully cut along the scribed line.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-36.jpg
Here is the modified version (and now you can see why the reinforcement is necessary).
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-37.jpg
Put back into the wheel well (and stuck together with blue-tac), you can see that this allows the upright to ride 0.040" higher than it otherwise would.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-38.jpg
Of course, that leaves a gap between the bottom of the upright and the lower control arm. So, a spacer is needed to take care of the gap. I cut these spacers out of a piece of sprue. A lathe makes this kind of thing really easy. :naughty:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-39.jpg
So, how did it come out? More pics again soon.... (less than two years, I'm sure! :evillol:)
jaxson
09-08-2011, 02:33 PM
sub'd for a terrific build. It inspires me to do something similar.
da_ashman
09-08-2011, 08:08 PM
Nice work, Ive always thought lowering the R32 would be very difficult but I like what youve done & may need to try the same. What wheels will you be using?
countach79
09-08-2011, 08:55 PM
looks nice in blue!
love the detail going into it
love the detail going into it
Hirob0y
09-09-2011, 12:55 AM
The standard BNR32 ride height is high, lowering was 1st mod on the list when I got it.
Nice build , I'll keep watching the build
Nice build , I'll keep watching the build
auw12
09-09-2011, 11:14 AM
Wow Andy struck back! It's a bit surprised to see you on a gtr, with carbon bonnet and lowered suspension... I thought you only play with exotics~:lol2: Or is that a commission build for gio?:rofl: Definitely subscribed for another masterpiece!
turbothirtytwo
09-09-2011, 12:14 PM
impressive. have the engine in my stash too. shame it is made from WM coz some small details could be replicated better in resin. make a testfit with body and chassis with wheels coz every tamiya R32 is strangely molded. one side is thicker and wheels stick out on one side. dont remember which it is and dont know how to explain it in english
MPWR
09-09-2011, 12:45 PM
Thanks guys!
It's a bit surprised to see you on a gtr, with carbon bonnet and lowered suspension... I thought you only play with exotics~:lol2: Or is that a commission build for gio?:rofl:
Hi Tang! Yeah, it is a bit of a departure from my usual BMW/Ferrari/Porsche lineup, isn't it? But after helping Gio with the technical editing for the engine kit, I had to build at least one. I've always liked Skylines (and Fairladies, too!), I just never got one into the mix. So Gio didn't give me a commission- just an excuse.
make a testfit with body and chassis with wheels coz every tamiya R32 is strangely molded. one side is thicker and wheels stick out on one side. dont remember which it is and dont know how to explain it in english
Thanks for the advice, I'll look for it. You may have noticed, I like to do a lot of test fitting. :cool:
What wheels will you be using?
Not sure yet. I have a set of BBS's I've been planning to use (ala Wangan Midnight)- but the more I look at them, the more I like the stock 5 spokes.
It inspires me to do something similar.
That's the idea! :bigthumb:
The standard BNR32 ride height is high, lowering was 1st mod on the list when I got it.
It really is, isn't it? Even the real ones look high.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Nissan_Skyline_R32_GT-R_001.jpg/800px-Nissan_Skyline_R32_GT-R_001.jpg
I have to admit, a certain blue 1/12 R32 has gone into the inspirations for this build.... :smile:
It's a bit surprised to see you on a gtr, with carbon bonnet and lowered suspension... I thought you only play with exotics~:lol2: Or is that a commission build for gio?:rofl:
Hi Tang! Yeah, it is a bit of a departure from my usual BMW/Ferrari/Porsche lineup, isn't it? But after helping Gio with the technical editing for the engine kit, I had to build at least one. I've always liked Skylines (and Fairladies, too!), I just never got one into the mix. So Gio didn't give me a commission- just an excuse.
make a testfit with body and chassis with wheels coz every tamiya R32 is strangely molded. one side is thicker and wheels stick out on one side. dont remember which it is and dont know how to explain it in english
Thanks for the advice, I'll look for it. You may have noticed, I like to do a lot of test fitting. :cool:
What wheels will you be using?
Not sure yet. I have a set of BBS's I've been planning to use (ala Wangan Midnight)- but the more I look at them, the more I like the stock 5 spokes.
It inspires me to do something similar.
That's the idea! :bigthumb:
The standard BNR32 ride height is high, lowering was 1st mod on the list when I got it.
It really is, isn't it? Even the real ones look high.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Nissan_Skyline_R32_GT-R_001.jpg/800px-Nissan_Skyline_R32_GT-R_001.jpg
I have to admit, a certain blue 1/12 R32 has gone into the inspirations for this build.... :smile:
willimo
09-11-2011, 06:10 PM
Woah! I was already thinking on the first page that this all seemed familiar, even before I checked the date. I had totally forgotten that I'd sent you this stuff - but you've made the most progress in the last two years on any kit I've ever had! I'm bummed I missed my opportunity to get one of these motors, I have a Z-Tune that I've wanted to do full detail, but I think I somehow have a plastic motor that I can detail.
This is looking great - and I love when a builder goes out of their normal subject matter, it usually turns out awesome. I can't wait to see more, but with as slow as some of us build, no one can begrudge another 2-year wait!
This is looking great - and I love when a builder goes out of their normal subject matter, it usually turns out awesome. I can't wait to see more, but with as slow as some of us build, no one can begrudge another 2-year wait!
willimo
09-11-2011, 06:12 PM
Oh, and I LOVE your lowering technique. Perfect look and it will all fit together well, which is so hard to maintain when lowering a model.
white_R34
09-11-2011, 11:38 PM
The hood came out wonderful and the pewter engine block look grate it's to bad once you have fully assembled the engine and bay, Know one will all of it's body detail. Still grate work. Keep at it M8.
tonioseven
09-12-2011, 08:17 AM
Alright Andy, you have my attention!!! You must've know that I've pulled out the engine Gio sent me and started test fitting it into the chassis of my S.A.S. Mine's R-34! I'll follow your build before I get too serious with my undertaking. :rofl: I beg of you to NOT make it another two years! :tongue:
MidMazar
09-13-2011, 12:26 PM
The blue looks killer on it.
Marianitem
09-14-2011, 01:13 AM
Your WIP just convinced me so I went today to my LHS to pick up a Tamiya R32 XD
That engine block looks so realistic! I´m following this one of course.
That engine block looks so realistic! I´m following this one of course.
Hiroboy
09-15-2011, 06:15 PM
Looking very nice so far, I'll keep watching:smokin:
MPWR
09-16-2011, 04:28 PM
Thanks for all the comments guys! It certainly does help keep me inspired to keep at it.
The results!
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-41.jpg
Vastly improved, I think.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-42.jpg
And of course the wheels steer (and turn)- I'm happy with it.
So I was considering what to do about the brakes. It's a GT-R, so it's gotta have huge brakes, right? Something super oversized, slotted and drilled. But then again....
The R32 started production in 1989- back when 16" wheels were big, and CF wasn't used as a fashion accessory. Group C cars were about the only things running with drilled/slotted brakes. So it's not that they can't be put on, but the R32 doesn't look wrong (at least to my eyes) on more ordinary brakes.
These are the stock kit brakes. There's really nothing wrong with them, is there? Actually, the calipers look great.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-43.jpg
So I decided to paint them us, and see how they came out. I mounted them on toothpics, painted them semi-gross black, and masked the hub portions. I mixed up my own usual masking solution for this: white glue mixed with a bit of dishwashing soap, a touch of food coloring, and water to thin to the desired consistency.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-45.jpg
Then, they were lightly sprayed with Alclald. If applied lightly over a black base color, Alclad will look darker- more like polished steel than chrome. Perfect for rotors.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-46.jpg
Then the rotors were masked off, leaving just the calipers exposed.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-47.jpg
And here they've been painted with flat aluminum and then clear orange. I wanted a powder coated kind of look.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-48.jpg
Here they are with the masking slime removed- pretty good, I'd say. I painted the raised Nissan script by drybrushing them with red artist's oil paint.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-49.jpg
Brakes never stay clean, so they shouldn't look clean- even on immaculate show cars. I used a dirty black wash on the calipers to simulate the inevitable accumulation of brake dust (which nicely brings out the script detail). I also added some RustAll to the hubs, as these surfaces invariably oxidize from heat.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-50.jpg
They look good in place. I'm also kind of liking the stock wheels. As I mentioned I'm a bit out of my usual genre here, but maybe it's ok to leave some stock components on a GT-R? :eek7: :sunglasse
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-41.jpg
Next, on to the rear suspension!
The results!
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-41.jpg
Vastly improved, I think.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-42.jpg
And of course the wheels steer (and turn)- I'm happy with it.
So I was considering what to do about the brakes. It's a GT-R, so it's gotta have huge brakes, right? Something super oversized, slotted and drilled. But then again....
The R32 started production in 1989- back when 16" wheels were big, and CF wasn't used as a fashion accessory. Group C cars were about the only things running with drilled/slotted brakes. So it's not that they can't be put on, but the R32 doesn't look wrong (at least to my eyes) on more ordinary brakes.
These are the stock kit brakes. There's really nothing wrong with them, is there? Actually, the calipers look great.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-43.jpg
So I decided to paint them us, and see how they came out. I mounted them on toothpics, painted them semi-gross black, and masked the hub portions. I mixed up my own usual masking solution for this: white glue mixed with a bit of dishwashing soap, a touch of food coloring, and water to thin to the desired consistency.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-45.jpg
Then, they were lightly sprayed with Alclald. If applied lightly over a black base color, Alclad will look darker- more like polished steel than chrome. Perfect for rotors.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-46.jpg
Then the rotors were masked off, leaving just the calipers exposed.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-47.jpg
And here they've been painted with flat aluminum and then clear orange. I wanted a powder coated kind of look.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-48.jpg
Here they are with the masking slime removed- pretty good, I'd say. I painted the raised Nissan script by drybrushing them with red artist's oil paint.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-49.jpg
Brakes never stay clean, so they shouldn't look clean- even on immaculate show cars. I used a dirty black wash on the calipers to simulate the inevitable accumulation of brake dust (which nicely brings out the script detail). I also added some RustAll to the hubs, as these surfaces invariably oxidize from heat.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-50.jpg
They look good in place. I'm also kind of liking the stock wheels. As I mentioned I'm a bit out of my usual genre here, but maybe it's ok to leave some stock components on a GT-R? :eek7: :sunglasse
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-41.jpg
Next, on to the rear suspension!
ales
09-16-2011, 11:36 PM
Andy, I totally agree about the stock wheels - I love them and I think they suit this car extremely well. It's like they were made for it...
Brakes look good, the ride height looks good, so keep doing what you're doing. Interesting tip about the liquid mask, though. What advatages does your solution have over the liquid mask you can buy?
Brakes look good, the ride height looks good, so keep doing what you're doing. Interesting tip about the liquid mask, though. What advatages does your solution have over the liquid mask you can buy?
auw12
09-18-2011, 01:43 PM
Really enjoy these typical Andy preciseness, you feel a lot by watching these WIPs, not just the works themselves, but the way you show the whole points of the building process, and that was crucial. Thank you buddy for the amazing work, I kinda look forward to a GTR brought to life by you, which was weird...:screwy::icon16:
da_ashman
09-18-2011, 07:23 PM
Nice work on the brakes, & interesting alternative to liquid mask!!
Uninen
09-19-2011, 03:47 AM
looks great! I can't wait to see this one finished? Are You going to paint smg/cf the front lip? I think those original rims suit it best (they're actually really nice looking rims, great "update" for say R31 skyline or z31)?
tonioseven
09-20-2011, 08:58 AM
Superb progress so far!! I'm taking notes!!! :sunglasse
MPWR
09-20-2011, 01:35 PM
Thanks guys!
What advatages does your solution have over the liquid mask you can buy?
It's easy to use, and forgiving enough that I can apply it over Aclad sprayed on to acrylic and not damage the finish. I haven't found another liquid mask that I can reliably do that with. This mask solution is also the same way that I mask wheel rims (like on my GT2).
On to the back end.
The rear suspension is a bit more straightforward to lower than the front. Again I'm not sure it would be easy to lower it a lot, but a little goes a long way. I decided to lower the rear less than the front- only about a half inch or so (or about 0.020" in 1/24). This hopefully should be just enough to cancel the 'high-rise' look of the stock setup, but leave the car with a slightly nose low crouch of a stance.
This is the rear suspension assembly, where the brakes attach. Before doing anything else, I traced the horseshoe shape that the brake hub attaches to with a scribing needle. I use a short sharp sewing needle held in a pin vise for this.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-51.jpg
Here the horseshoe has been cut off with a PE saw. You can still see the etched outline of the original position.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-52.jpg
Then I glued on a disc of styrene in the new position of where I want the brakes to mount. The outline of the original horseshoe serves as an alignment reference. I simply mounted the new disk about 0.020" above the original location.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-53.jpg
Here the right side brake is mounted at the original stock height, while the left side is raised slightly. It's a subtle difference, but that's all it needs.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-54.jpg
And here are the results.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-55.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-56.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-57.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-58.jpg
I think that looks spot on. I also think I'm sold on the stock wheels. And I can just sit and look at that color....
Beginning to get somewhere now. Thanks for watchin'. :cool:
What advatages does your solution have over the liquid mask you can buy?
It's easy to use, and forgiving enough that I can apply it over Aclad sprayed on to acrylic and not damage the finish. I haven't found another liquid mask that I can reliably do that with. This mask solution is also the same way that I mask wheel rims (like on my GT2).
On to the back end.
The rear suspension is a bit more straightforward to lower than the front. Again I'm not sure it would be easy to lower it a lot, but a little goes a long way. I decided to lower the rear less than the front- only about a half inch or so (or about 0.020" in 1/24). This hopefully should be just enough to cancel the 'high-rise' look of the stock setup, but leave the car with a slightly nose low crouch of a stance.
This is the rear suspension assembly, where the brakes attach. Before doing anything else, I traced the horseshoe shape that the brake hub attaches to with a scribing needle. I use a short sharp sewing needle held in a pin vise for this.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-51.jpg
Here the horseshoe has been cut off with a PE saw. You can still see the etched outline of the original position.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-52.jpg
Then I glued on a disc of styrene in the new position of where I want the brakes to mount. The outline of the original horseshoe serves as an alignment reference. I simply mounted the new disk about 0.020" above the original location.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-53.jpg
Here the right side brake is mounted at the original stock height, while the left side is raised slightly. It's a subtle difference, but that's all it needs.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-54.jpg
And here are the results.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-55.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-56.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-57.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/andrejmiller/RBG26-58.jpg
I think that looks spot on. I also think I'm sold on the stock wheels. And I can just sit and look at that color....
Beginning to get somewhere now. Thanks for watchin'. :cool:
kaho
09-20-2011, 03:24 PM
I love your style! The stock wheels, plain brakes, subtle suspension adjustments. Nothing over the top and simply effective! I think the stance is spot on as well. I try hard to do similar things you do in my builds but you clearly expressed the reasoning out of my mind!
Btw, care to share the mix ratios of your homemade masking seal?
Btw, care to share the mix ratios of your homemade masking seal?
xam_43
09-21-2011, 07:47 AM
Rather useful technics! Will borrow, thanks! :-)
tonioseven
09-22-2011, 04:42 AM
This is turning out to be a most-entertaining thread! :sunglasse
auw12
09-22-2011, 10:48 AM
Stance is really a big deal of a model car, and you did it just perfectly my friend! Maybe you can give us some clearer idea of the stance by some lower angled pics buddy~
MPWR
09-27-2011, 11:03 AM
ddtham
09-27-2011, 11:29 AM
Andy,
I haven't been here for a while, but I must say that this is inspiring! Waiting for more updates.
I haven't been here for a while, but I must say that this is inspiring! Waiting for more updates.
Skyline33gtr
09-28-2011, 02:48 AM
Nice Colour-combination. I like that Style.
Harry
Harry
auw12
09-28-2011, 01:51 PM
Yes, definitely that, buddy~ Wonderful!:biggrin:
jaxson
10-13-2011, 10:26 PM
Fantastic!
gionc
10-14-2011, 01:12 AM
What I lost!!!!
Well, I found also at last :D
GREAT!
Well, I found also at last :D
GREAT!
gionc
10-14-2011, 01:16 AM
BTW, I can't wait to see some metal in those belly!!!!
mrgixxer
06-09-2012, 06:42 PM
Any more progress on this??
MPWR
06-10-2012, 08:13 PM
A bit, but not really enough yet to make an update of. I hope to have more to show again soon...
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