Dual -air condition problem

I have a 2000 regal with duel air condition. The passengers side vent is blowing out cooler air than the drivers side vent. Does anybody know the reason for this?
I adjusted temperature so both would be the same but the air is cooler on the passengers side.

How do I fix this?

You have one of two problems.

1. The drivers side temperature actuator is bad, and not moving the door to the proper position.

2. Your air conditioning system is low on refrigerant. The way the air flows through the evaporator core, as the refrigerant level drops, it will cause the driver's side to blow warm air even when the passenger side still blows cold.

You have one of two problems.

1. The drivers side temperature actuator is bad, and not moving the door to the proper position.

2. Your air conditioning system is low on refrigerant. The way the air flows through the evaporator core, as the refrigerant level drops, it will cause the driver's side to blow warm air even when the passenger side still blows cold.

I had the refrigerant refilled about a month ago. Is there is way to tell which one it is?
If the problem is the temperature actuator on the drivers side how do I change it?

After I drive the car for about a half hour the drivers side starts blowing cold air.

The drivers side actuator is in a nasty spot (high under the dash on the side of the center console), so changing it is a bear. It's held in by only 3 screws, but it's in a really hard to reach location.

Regretfully from your symptoms, it could still be low on refrigerant, you could have a system blockage, or it could be a lazy/slow actuator.

Before you added refrigerant, did you use a set of guages and check both high and low side pressures to be sure you don't have a partially blocked orifice filter? When an A/C system is low on refrigerant, it normally indicates a leak (and it may be still leaking so you're possibly low again). Systems can lose refrigerant over time, but it's always a good idea to have it checked properly before just adding more refrigerant.

The drivers side actuator is in a nasty spot (high under the dash on the side of the center console), so changing it is a bear. It's held in by only 3 screws, but it's in a really hard to reach location.

Regretfully from your symptoms, it could still be low on refrigerant, you could have a system blockage, or it could be a lazy/slow actuator.

Before you added refrigerant, did you use a set of guages and check both high and low side pressures to be sure you don't have a partially blocked orifice filter? When an A/C system is low on refrigerant, it normally indicates a leak (and it may be still leaking so you're possibly low again). Systems can lose refrigerant over time, but it's always a good idea to have it checked properly before just adding more refrigerant.
Thanks for the information. Do you have any instrutions on how to change the actuator on the drivers side.
Hey I live in from Grand Blanc where do you work?

Thanks for the information. Do you have any instrutions on how to change the actuator on the drivers side.
Hey I live in from Grand Blanc where do you work?

I had it checked out and the tec said it was the condenser.
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Is this easy to change?

I traded in my 99 Regal because of the problems with the dual sysytem AC. Specialty tool ands equipment are needed to evacuate the compressor etc. I think they replaced the condensor on mine twice. All I know is that I dumped at least $4000 in my last two years of ownership because of AC issues. I initially had those same symtoms, warm on one side cold out the other. A year later the same issue, but on opposite sides.

compressor shaft seals leak causing the above sysmptons.....

I had it checked out and the tec said it was the condenser.
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Is this easy to change?

No because the radiator must be removed first. Plus the refrigerant should be recovered before starting any replacement work. Was it confirmed leaking with dye?

Also, on the V5 Harrison/Delco variable displacement compressor there is a refrigerant control valve that probably causes more issues than bad compressor seals but goes unnoticed or undetected and people wind up replacing the complete compressor instead. Easy to replace considering and costs only around $60.00. Proper A/C manifold gauges and the ABCD charts can easily pinpoint most causes of A/C issues, meaning proper diagnostics.

No because the radiator must be removed first. Plus the refrigerant should be recovered before starting any replacement work. Was it confirmed leaking with dye?

Also, on the V5 Harrison/Delco variable displacement compressor there is a refrigerant control valve that probably causes more issues than bad compressor seals but goes unnoticed or undetected and people wind up replacing the complete compressor instead. Easy to replace considering and costs only around $60.00. Proper A/C manifold gauges and the ABCD charts can easily pinpoint most causes of A/C issues, meaning proper diagnostics.
The tec used dye to check the leak. Is this the right way to check it?