alot of new problems

first off the steering wheel broke off the left pivot for the tilt steering broke second the passenger side window wont rool down with the drivers swith but will work fine with the passenger swithch and the drivers switch will make the voltage drop about a volt
and the brakes when stopping when almost stopped it will get hard to push the pedal and when i was stopped it sounded like an air leak under the dash

first off, dont drive it with that tilt the way it is, I know for a fact that sooner or later that wheel is going to lock and you will be jugling it around to get it steering again (been there done that).
sounds like a bad brake booste

sounds like a broken wire to the window, Not all the way mind you but close, very close, you need a pin and a jumper wire. first jumper from the switch to the passanger motor and see if the switch will run the window. then use the pin to jumper into the wire and try untill the problem disapears. If it is not in the crimp connector at the motor the next place is the pinch and moving parts next to the door. after checking that use the 1/2 split method to find the spot. Good luck. after the crimp connectors it is usualy in the cable that runs from the doors to the body

i can feel air being sucked in the thing the pedal pushes under the dash is that hard to replace? and also would you know what color the wire is?

As long as the brake lines are not rusted at the master, it is not hard to change a booster. Those booster is fairly large so you will want to remove the master and the brake lines, from the master. Get plugs so that you can keep as much brake fluid in the master as you can. Without the plugs fluid is going to seep out all over the place. You may have to remove the ABS computer and a few other ditties that are in the way. Swap it out and then bleed the brake lines. If you don’t have a Mighty vack, or help, you can bleed the brakes with a jar, a piece of 1/8 rubber line and a big can of brake fluid. Pour some fluid in the jar (clear is better so that you can see the bubbles) open the bleeder and place the hose over the bleeder and place the other end of the hose below the fluid level in the jar. Slowly pump the brakes making sure that the level is kept high enough in the master. There will be bubbles at first. Pump the brakes a few more times and you should get bubbles again. Press until they stop. Tighten down the bleeder and move to the next one. Always start bleeding the longest line first and move to the shortest in order of brake line length. Remember that the 5mm brake lines don’t hold much fluid so don’t go filling up the jar trying to get the second set of bubles.

As far as the wire color is Yep, know all the wire colors of that car. This is what you do.

Go to autozone.com
register it is free
Select a vehicle under manage my vehicles.
Go to repair info
Select vehicle repair guides
Then wire diagrams
Find the schematic for the windows

Don’t go to all data…… they charge for the same darn thing

autozone doesnt have any thing for this car and why is that that thing sucking air undre the dash

does anybody know where else i can find diagrams for this car for free and how hard would it be to change the booster?

No not knocking what was said earlier, but I found replacing the booster to me a major pain in the butt. In theory, it is only the 2 master cylinder bolts, the 4 bolts that hold it to the firewall and the clip that connects the pedal to the booster. In reality, i had a very tough time with one of the fire wall bolts because the steering shaft, and its housing was in the way. To get this bolt out I ended up tearing out the lower pieces of the dash and dropping the whole steering column down. Only 4 bolts hold it up, once you get all the panels below it removed.

Once I had the bolts out though, there were a number of things that needed to be moved or removed to get the booster out of the engine bay. The fuel lines and a coolant hose for starters where in the way. Be careful, as those old lines are easy to crack. I had to remove a number of other things as well.

When I went to put it back in, I could not get the bolts to go through the firewall, so I had drill the firewall holes out a little larger. Found that out the hard way after wrestling it back in there and then having to take it back out again.

If I were you though, I would start with the steering column. There are two pins (probably close to 3/8" in diameter) that the steering wheel pivots on. Chances are, one of those fell out. Its actually a common problem and you should find it when you are pulling everything apart. Just wrap a piece of electrical tape around it and pound it back in.

i had to take it apart in the walmart parking lot to see what happend with the steering wheel and the pin on the passenger side came out and the metal broke off on the other side how would you get that peice out i think there are only 4 screws holding it on

That is probably going to be a lot of work. You will need to just start taking things apart. If you take off the lower kick panels under the steering column you will find 4 bolts, two up front and to farther down the column. If you remove these the entire steering column assembly will drop down. You will be able to see things better.

what about finding a new one? where would i look besides the obvious junkyard