Sanding/Paint question
Enilder
07-22-2009, 10:39 AM
How do you guys trim parts where it was attached to the plastic kit? I cut trimed it with nail clipper and began wet sanding. After I finished, I noticed that I can still see the sand marks. (Some of aluminum finished parts began to show purple "inner" color) How do you go about doing these? Use higher grit paper and repaint the whole thing afterwards? I tried to be careful and sand only the part that I wanted to trim but it's not too easy with small parts like gear shifter.
For example, the cockpit, you don't paint the entire thing according to instruction (at least I don't want to :p). I am not sure if I can even find the paint that matches OEM "pre"paint.
Thanks!
For example, the cockpit, you don't paint the entire thing according to instruction (at least I don't want to :p). I am not sure if I can even find the paint that matches OEM "pre"paint.
Thanks!
Didymus
07-22-2009, 12:45 PM
How do you guys trim parts where it was attached to the plastic kit?
Everybody has this problem; it's the nature of plastic kits.
I use inexpensive Xcelite clippers, the kind with the blades that are straight on one side and angled on the other. (I'm sure there's a technical name for them, but I don't know it.) Clip with the straight side toward the part and the angled side toward the sprue.
AFAIK, any sprue cutting method will leave a rough spot. I sand the "injury," then apply either putty or thick CA glue and sand with 800 grit paper to smooth any roughness that remains.
After I finished, I noticed that I can still see the sand marks.Use 800 grit paper to remove any marks from coarser sandpaper. After priming, I can't see sanding marks made by 800.
(Some of aluminum finished parts began to show purple "inner" color) How do you go about doing these?Basically, there are three approaches.
#1. Leave the factory chrome and touch up those marks with Chrome paint. Testors Model Master "Chrome Silver" or "Silver Chrome" enamel (same stuff) works pretty well for this.
#2. Use 91% isopropyl alcohol (drugstore) or Purple Power (Walmart or auto parts store) to strip off the factory chrome. Then repaint the parts with Alclad II.
#3. Bare Metal Foil. This is very thin foil that's got adhesive on one side. It conforms to just about any shape. You simply stick it to any area that you want chromed, burnish it down so it conforms, then trim the excess. Many outstanding modelers use BMF.
The Alclad and BMF look a lot less "plasticky" that the factory chrome. The Alclad is my favorite. It requires careful surface prep and a black undercoat. Both Alclad and BMF are more realistic than the factory chrome, but also more work. Your choice.
For example, the cockpit, you don't paint the entire thing according to instruction (at least I don't want to :p). I am not sure if I can even find the paint that matches OEM "pre"paint.That's just one of many reasons for not leaving bare plastic showing on your model. But the main reason for painting everything is that plastic looks like... plastic. If you want your car to look right, you'll need to paint the whole thing.
Ddms
Everybody has this problem; it's the nature of plastic kits.
I use inexpensive Xcelite clippers, the kind with the blades that are straight on one side and angled on the other. (I'm sure there's a technical name for them, but I don't know it.) Clip with the straight side toward the part and the angled side toward the sprue.
AFAIK, any sprue cutting method will leave a rough spot. I sand the "injury," then apply either putty or thick CA glue and sand with 800 grit paper to smooth any roughness that remains.
After I finished, I noticed that I can still see the sand marks.Use 800 grit paper to remove any marks from coarser sandpaper. After priming, I can't see sanding marks made by 800.
(Some of aluminum finished parts began to show purple "inner" color) How do you go about doing these?Basically, there are three approaches.
#1. Leave the factory chrome and touch up those marks with Chrome paint. Testors Model Master "Chrome Silver" or "Silver Chrome" enamel (same stuff) works pretty well for this.
#2. Use 91% isopropyl alcohol (drugstore) or Purple Power (Walmart or auto parts store) to strip off the factory chrome. Then repaint the parts with Alclad II.
#3. Bare Metal Foil. This is very thin foil that's got adhesive on one side. It conforms to just about any shape. You simply stick it to any area that you want chromed, burnish it down so it conforms, then trim the excess. Many outstanding modelers use BMF.
The Alclad and BMF look a lot less "plasticky" that the factory chrome. The Alclad is my favorite. It requires careful surface prep and a black undercoat. Both Alclad and BMF are more realistic than the factory chrome, but also more work. Your choice.
For example, the cockpit, you don't paint the entire thing according to instruction (at least I don't want to :p). I am not sure if I can even find the paint that matches OEM "pre"paint.That's just one of many reasons for not leaving bare plastic showing on your model. But the main reason for painting everything is that plastic looks like... plastic. If you want your car to look right, you'll need to paint the whole thing.
Ddms
Enilder
07-22-2009, 12:54 PM
alright thank you. i think i will just repaint if needed and i will try to use higher grit.
so far, nail clipper trims very nicely (with sanding)
so far, nail clipper trims very nicely (with sanding)
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