Hoowdee!
Primal SMX
10-24-2001, 08:54 PM
Hello to all,
Just another newbie joining the ranks from the land of the long white cloud. I have a 97 p11 Primera designed by stillen. I brought it when it had about 20000 km on it and boy have i had trouble with it. From the start it was always gutless!:( I found the problem to be the gaps and the type of plugs that were being used. 1.2m gap was way too big so i put NGK platniums in at 0.9m gap and what a difference.
I also read that the headers make the biggest difference and i would have to agree as i have a 2 and 1/4 inch system with no Cat. Also i wrapped the headers in exaust heat wrap and this made a big difference. My theory was that this happened mainly due to the reduced heat under the hood. This affects me because of the Stillen/ K&N pod intake system.
U must be sick of me already so i'll leave now but remember-
Just another newbie joining the ranks from the land of the long white cloud. I have a 97 p11 Primera designed by stillen. I brought it when it had about 20000 km on it and boy have i had trouble with it. From the start it was always gutless!:( I found the problem to be the gaps and the type of plugs that were being used. 1.2m gap was way too big so i put NGK platniums in at 0.9m gap and what a difference.
I also read that the headers make the biggest difference and i would have to agree as i have a 2 and 1/4 inch system with no Cat. Also i wrapped the headers in exaust heat wrap and this made a big difference. My theory was that this happened mainly due to the reduced heat under the hood. This affects me because of the Stillen/ K&N pod intake system.
U must be sick of me already so i'll leave now but remember-
T4 Primera
10-24-2001, 09:33 PM
Gidday Kiwi, welcome along!!:D
There is a growing contingent of Kiwis here on AF nowadays.
Did you say you had headers AND a 2 1/4" system.
What headers have you got and how much did you pay for the heat wrap??
There is a growing contingent of Kiwis here on AF nowadays.
Did you say you had headers AND a 2 1/4" system.
What headers have you got and how much did you pay for the heat wrap??
P10DET
10-24-2001, 09:40 PM
Originally posted by Primal SMX
Also i wrapped the headers in exaust heat wrap and this made a big difference. My theory was that this happened mainly due to the reduced heat under the hood. This affects me because of the Stillen/ K&N pod intake system.
Gidday!
Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason.
http://www.swaintech.com
Also i wrapped the headers in exaust heat wrap and this made a big difference. My theory was that this happened mainly due to the reduced heat under the hood. This affects me because of the Stillen/ K&N pod intake system.
Gidday!
Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason.
http://www.swaintech.com
T4 Primera
10-24-2001, 09:46 PM
Originally posted by P10DET
Gidday!
Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason.
http://www.swaintech.com Way cool, that had never occured to me. I was going to wrap the extractors on my Chev engine just to keep the engine bay temperature down - now I have a much better reason to do it. Thanks:)
Gidday!
Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason.
http://www.swaintech.com Way cool, that had never occured to me. I was going to wrap the extractors on my Chev engine just to keep the engine bay temperature down - now I have a much better reason to do it. Thanks:)
primera man
10-25-2001, 07:48 AM
Another kiwi. Good to see more finding the site.
Lucky bugger getting a SMX Model :)
Lucky bugger getting a SMX Model :)
AznVirus
10-25-2001, 08:39 AM
:finger: W E L C O M E ! :finger:
Primal SMX
10-25-2001, 04:14 PM
Thanks for the warm welcome!!!
The extractors are 4-2-1 by Coby which at the time of purchase i thought they were American items until i seen the orange colour and intantly new they were coby. They cost me about $350 NZL at the time about 1 year and a half ago. And they did make the biggest difference of the whole exhaust then followed by the Cat. The heat wrap was a cheapie from Road and Track in Lower Hutt which they use for Rally cars etc so it aint pretty but when i purchased it i was just curious as to what difference it would make. It cost about $9.00NZL a metre and i got 8 metres and that did the headers all the way down to where the flexy joint is. Like i said this type aint pretty as it is as thick as a thin towel but once a get my butt back into gear i will probably purchase some from REPCO hear in NZ. I actually got the idea when i looked under the hood of a four door VtiR Civic at a locall tyre dealer whom said the car could really go.
"Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason. "
Yes i had researched this on the net and new about how gases when heated will move fast etc but in a four pot it is'nt supposed to make a big difference, but it made a descent improvement on my car. Talking to locall Gurru's they said it may have made a larger improvement on my car because of the heat that was being dissapated by the extractors that was essentially heating the engine (block, intake pipe, throttle body, plenium etc) more than with the standard, sheilded item.
"Lucky bugger getting a SMX Model"
Thanks and its actually the Prototype that Steve Millen and co. did all the testing on, so its the only white one. I,ve had it for about 2 years now from when it had around 20 000 kms on it and it now has just over 100 000 and still starts and everything like the day i brought it. I guess i do too much travelling!!!
P.S. sorry about the cut and paste of all the quotes but i am only new and still learning
:silly2: :silly2: :silly2:
The extractors are 4-2-1 by Coby which at the time of purchase i thought they were American items until i seen the orange colour and intantly new they were coby. They cost me about $350 NZL at the time about 1 year and a half ago. And they did make the biggest difference of the whole exhaust then followed by the Cat. The heat wrap was a cheapie from Road and Track in Lower Hutt which they use for Rally cars etc so it aint pretty but when i purchased it i was just curious as to what difference it would make. It cost about $9.00NZL a metre and i got 8 metres and that did the headers all the way down to where the flexy joint is. Like i said this type aint pretty as it is as thick as a thin towel but once a get my butt back into gear i will probably purchase some from REPCO hear in NZ. I actually got the idea when i looked under the hood of a four door VtiR Civic at a locall tyre dealer whom said the car could really go.
"Actually, the biggest impact the wrap has is to keep the exhaust velocity up. This improves the scavenging of the cylinders. I have Swain Tech's White Lighting coating on my HS header for the same reason. "
Yes i had researched this on the net and new about how gases when heated will move fast etc but in a four pot it is'nt supposed to make a big difference, but it made a descent improvement on my car. Talking to locall Gurru's they said it may have made a larger improvement on my car because of the heat that was being dissapated by the extractors that was essentially heating the engine (block, intake pipe, throttle body, plenium etc) more than with the standard, sheilded item.
"Lucky bugger getting a SMX Model"
Thanks and its actually the Prototype that Steve Millen and co. did all the testing on, so its the only white one. I,ve had it for about 2 years now from when it had around 20 000 kms on it and it now has just over 100 000 and still starts and everything like the day i brought it. I guess i do too much travelling!!!
P.S. sorry about the cut and paste of all the quotes but i am only new and still learning
:silly2: :silly2: :silly2:
jasestu
10-25-2001, 04:41 PM
Kiwis, Kiwis, Kiwis! We're taking over! :dogpile:
Grunter
10-25-2001, 05:04 PM
Kiwis, Kiwis, Kiwis! We're taking over!
Yeah, arnt we just
P.S. Welcome along, Primal SMX
Yeah, arnt we just
P.S. Welcome along, Primal SMX
P10DET
10-26-2001, 08:54 AM
Originally posted by Primal SMX
Yes i had researched this on the net and new about how gases when heated will move fast etc but in a four pot it is'nt supposed to make a big difference, but it made a descent improvement on my car. Talking to locall Gurru's they said it may have made a larger improvement on my car because of the heat that was being dissapated by the extractors that was essentially heating the engine (block, intake pipe, throttle body, plenium etc) more than with the standard, sheilded item
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
As for not helping a 4 banger, there are people running karts with the White Lightning coating (Swain Tech is in my home town). Lot's of midget races (a car, not the driver ;) ) run this coating. And lastly, when talking with the folks from Swain for my SCC article, they said pretty much exactly what I did.
Yes i had researched this on the net and new about how gases when heated will move fast etc but in a four pot it is'nt supposed to make a big difference, but it made a descent improvement on my car. Talking to locall Gurru's they said it may have made a larger improvement on my car because of the heat that was being dissapated by the extractors that was essentially heating the engine (block, intake pipe, throttle body, plenium etc) more than with the standard, sheilded item
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
As for not helping a 4 banger, there are people running karts with the White Lightning coating (Swain Tech is in my home town). Lot's of midget races (a car, not the driver ;) ) run this coating. And lastly, when talking with the folks from Swain for my SCC article, they said pretty much exactly what I did.
jasestu
10-26-2001, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by P10DET
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
On Monday I'm going to grab a few thermocouples from uni and measure the temperatures at various locations in my engine bay. I intended to do this to see if my home made intake scheme was actually getting cold air to where it's needed, but I'll spend a bit more time on it and prepare a full report for you folks. :) (It's exam time, I'm doing anything possible to avoid study...)
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
On Monday I'm going to grab a few thermocouples from uni and measure the temperatures at various locations in my engine bay. I intended to do this to see if my home made intake scheme was actually getting cold air to where it's needed, but I'll spend a bit more time on it and prepare a full report for you folks. :) (It's exam time, I'm doing anything possible to avoid study...)
primera man
10-26-2001, 04:08 PM
Originally posted by jasestu
Kiwis, Kiwis, Kiwis! We're taking over! :dogpile:
Time for next plan in taking over :devil: :devil:
Kiwis, Kiwis, Kiwis! We're taking over! :dogpile:
Time for next plan in taking over :devil: :devil:
Primal SMX
10-28-2001, 04:35 PM
Originally posted by P10DET
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
As for not helping a 4 banger, there are people running karts with the White Lightning coating (Swain Tech is in my home town). Lot's of midget races (a car, not the driver ;) ) run this coating. And lastly, when talking with the folks from Swain for my SCC article, they said pretty much exactly what I did.
Thanks for that as i had always thought that where the Air Filter is located was a hot spot. I came to this conclusion after i sectioned off the Pod filter with an aluminium shielding after i had a cold feed intake pipe made. Before the shielding the benefits were minute but after it, it seemed to make a noticable difference ecspecially on warmer days. But even now on hot days it just losses power! Thanks though for the information as i haven't talked to many other people with experience with these motors.
I'm still going to disagree with that. There are some folks on the SE-R (B13 with the SR20DE) Mailing List who have taken instrumented readings under the hood near the intake. They found that while moving, the temps under the hood are much nearer to ambient than we had thought.
As for not helping a 4 banger, there are people running karts with the White Lightning coating (Swain Tech is in my home town). Lot's of midget races (a car, not the driver ;) ) run this coating. And lastly, when talking with the folks from Swain for my SCC article, they said pretty much exactly what I did.
Thanks for that as i had always thought that where the Air Filter is located was a hot spot. I came to this conclusion after i sectioned off the Pod filter with an aluminium shielding after i had a cold feed intake pipe made. Before the shielding the benefits were minute but after it, it seemed to make a noticable difference ecspecially on warmer days. But even now on hot days it just losses power! Thanks though for the information as i haven't talked to many other people with experience with these motors.
P10DET
10-28-2001, 08:56 PM
Originally posted by jasestu
On Monday I'm going to grab a few thermocouples from uni and measure the temperatures at various locations in my engine bay. I intended to do this to see if my home made intake scheme was actually getting cold air to where it's needed, but I'll spend a bit more time on it and prepare a full report for you folks. :) (It's exam time, I'm doing anything possible to avoid study...)
Hehe.
Hey, that would be cool. Some SE-R folks have done it, but it's nice to see if the results are repeatable - especially with a G20. The more data the better. Just be sure to note speed and such when capturing the data.
On Monday I'm going to grab a few thermocouples from uni and measure the temperatures at various locations in my engine bay. I intended to do this to see if my home made intake scheme was actually getting cold air to where it's needed, but I'll spend a bit more time on it and prepare a full report for you folks. :) (It's exam time, I'm doing anything possible to avoid study...)
Hehe.
Hey, that would be cool. Some SE-R folks have done it, but it's nice to see if the results are repeatable - especially with a G20. The more data the better. Just be sure to note speed and such when capturing the data.
jasestu
10-28-2001, 09:20 PM
Originally posted by P10DET
Hey, that would be cool. Some SE-R folks have done it, but it's nice to see if the results are repeatable - especially with a G20. The more data the better. Just be sure to note speed and such when capturing the data.
I'm in the process of trying to track down a data logger at the moment. I decided it might be worthwhile to get some time trend data. Tho I might just find a passenger who doesn't mind writing down lotsa numbers... :) Looks like I might be doing it on Tuesday now...
Any specific areas within the engine bay that people think I should monitor? I'm probably just going to monitor around the air intake and the middle of the underside of the bonnet, as well as having an ambient reference (sheltered from any airflow).
Hey, that would be cool. Some SE-R folks have done it, but it's nice to see if the results are repeatable - especially with a G20. The more data the better. Just be sure to note speed and such when capturing the data.
I'm in the process of trying to track down a data logger at the moment. I decided it might be worthwhile to get some time trend data. Tho I might just find a passenger who doesn't mind writing down lotsa numbers... :) Looks like I might be doing it on Tuesday now...
Any specific areas within the engine bay that people think I should monitor? I'm probably just going to monitor around the air intake and the middle of the underside of the bonnet, as well as having an ambient reference (sheltered from any airflow).
jasestu
10-29-2001, 08:40 PM
The results are an average of 10 readings taken at 1 minute intervals driving at open road speeds (100km/h 60mph). There was no aftermarket system to get air up to the location of the intake (where the stock air box is located). The data needs adjusting for the thermocouple calibration, but the difference is only about 0.4C and I can't be bothered doing it. The engine is a SR20DE in a 92 Primera Te. Error values are 1 standard deviation.
Ambient (taken from behind the front bumper)
--- 20.5 +/- 0.3C (69F)
Engine Bay (taken down the left hand side of the engine, I guess I should get a pic of this or describe it more accuratly)
--- 40.6 +/- 1.7C (105F)
Intake
--- 31.3 +/- 1.9C (88F)
Feel free to hit me up with any questions...
Ambient (taken from behind the front bumper)
--- 20.5 +/- 0.3C (69F)
Engine Bay (taken down the left hand side of the engine, I guess I should get a pic of this or describe it more accuratly)
--- 40.6 +/- 1.7C (105F)
Intake
--- 31.3 +/- 1.9C (88F)
Feel free to hit me up with any questions...
jasestu
10-29-2001, 08:51 PM
Actually don't reply here any more. I decided it makes more sence to continue this discussion here:
G20 > Engine > Engine Temperatures... (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t9968.html)
G20 > Engine > Engine Temperatures... (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t9968.html)
AWD Primera
10-29-2001, 08:52 PM
Welcome along PrimalSMX. Good to see another Kiwi. Nice car by the way. - QUESTION - Is there any reason why you introduced yourself in the maintenance section of this forum???:confused:
P10DET
10-29-2001, 08:53 PM
Originally posted by jasestu
The results are an average of 10 readings taken at 1 minute intervals driving at open road speeds (100km/h 60mph). There was no aftermarket system to get air up to the location of the intake (where the stock air box is located). The data needs adjusting for the thermocouple calibration, but the difference is only about 0.4C and I can't be bothered doing it. The engine is a SR20DE in a 92 Primera Te. Error values are 1 standard deviation.
Ambient (taken from behind the front bumper)
--- 20.5 +/- 0.3C (69F)
Engine Bay (taken down the left hand side of the engine, I guess I should get a pic of this or describe it more accuratly)
--- 40.6 +/- 1.7C (105F)
Intake
--- 31.3 +/- 1.9C (88F)
Feel free to hit me up with any questions...
Cool data! So the increase you measured is approx 11 deg C. A bit more than I expected, but not terribly bad. Might be interesting to see what it would be with some air directed towards your airbox.
What speeds was this data accumulated at?
Nice work.
The results are an average of 10 readings taken at 1 minute intervals driving at open road speeds (100km/h 60mph). There was no aftermarket system to get air up to the location of the intake (where the stock air box is located). The data needs adjusting for the thermocouple calibration, but the difference is only about 0.4C and I can't be bothered doing it. The engine is a SR20DE in a 92 Primera Te. Error values are 1 standard deviation.
Ambient (taken from behind the front bumper)
--- 20.5 +/- 0.3C (69F)
Engine Bay (taken down the left hand side of the engine, I guess I should get a pic of this or describe it more accuratly)
--- 40.6 +/- 1.7C (105F)
Intake
--- 31.3 +/- 1.9C (88F)
Feel free to hit me up with any questions...
Cool data! So the increase you measured is approx 11 deg C. A bit more than I expected, but not terribly bad. Might be interesting to see what it would be with some air directed towards your airbox.
What speeds was this data accumulated at?
Nice work.
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