How tight should timing belt be?

Hello All,
First time poster, first Isuzu (just bought it 2 days ago), it's got 102000 miles on it and have a couple of questions....my Rodeo "clacks" like a diesel at different RPMs (could be 1100, 1700, 2200, it doesn't matter)....when it's "clacking" i can rev it a bit and it's quiet then it starts again...from reading i believe it's timing belt/hydraulic tensioner related...other problem is that i smell antifreeze..my questions are:

how tight should the timing belt be? I pulled the pass side timing belt cover..i can see at least 1/4 inch slop when it's running and i can see the tensioner pulley bouncing like a basketball...the timing belt appears to be dry-rotted on the outside...again, how tight should it be...i think this may be an easy fix to get rid of the "clacking"...am i on the right track
smelling antifreeze...do these things have a history of cracked heads or bad head gaskets? Its not "spotting" anything but power steering fluid (as far a i can tell). I have never seen white smoke from the pipe and there is no loss of power, but there is some water that will come out the tail pipe when i first start it in the morning and let it idle for 10 minutes or so...oil doesn't look milky....overflow bottle was pretty empty..i have filled it and will keep an eye on it but wasn't sure if these were known for bad head gaskets.
Here are a few pics of it, i really like it and hope that i can get these items taken care of...
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1308.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1307.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1304-1.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1305.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1313.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_1306.jpg

:licka::licka:Your first problem sure sounds like the timing belt tensioner, there is no way to adjust it so it muct be replaced. It is a hydrolic unit that is prone to cause your symptoms when they go bad. Most do a new belt and water pump at the same time, if it hasnt been done recently. Andie:wink::wink:

The water out the tail pipe is normal on all cars in the morning. It is just condensation that builds up in the exhaust as the car warms up and then blows it out.

+1 on the tensioner being bad. You will need to be specific at the parts store. Most of them will hand over the pulley part, you need the little hydraulic pusher. You also should do your water pump and replace the belt while you're in there and inspect the other pulleys for noise and wear and replace as needed. The antifreeze smell could be a seeping water pump.

amigo2k, i also thought the same thing...once the car warms up there is no more water from the exhaust...

+1 on the tensioner being bad. You will need to be specific at the parts store. Most of them will hand over the pulley part, you need the little hydraulic pusher. You also should do your water pump and replace the belt while you're in there and inspect the other pulleys for noise and wear and replace as needed. The antifreeze smell could be a seeping water pump.
Cat Fuzz...i know that there are "kits" out there that sell the GMB water pump, tensioner, the idler, the belt and bolts...but none of them sell the spring loaded pusher...why is that...you'd think that every kit should include it? And, i'm not seein any antifreeze on the ground, i'd think if the water pump leaked i'd see it somewhere. Is this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97-Isuzu-Rodeo-Trooper-3-2-6VD1-Belt-Water-Pump_W0QQitemZ250351716034QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a4a2006c2&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1 from ebay ok to use? seems like the price is right...and where can i find the hydraulic piston tensioner?
Again, thanks all for your replies...i will reply once i have changed everythig...

PS i just had back surgery tuesday...i'm real sore right now (i could barely move after putting the pass side timing cover back on...i am real stupid, just ask corporate)...it's "embarassing loud", but can i drive it this way for a couple of weeks until i've healed a bit? it's either i drive it this way or i drive this in the mean time
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/bumper%20pics/100_1123.jpg
I'm not even sure i can get in it right now? Thoughts?

well, i just orderd the spring tensioner, i will purchase the rest of the stuff in the form of an ebay "kit" if they are ok to use...pls advise about the kits from ebay that also include gmb water pump.
thanks in advance

There is no spring tensioner. The hydraulic piston is the only thing that keeps the belt tight. It pushes on the "tensioner" that you're buying in the kit. The terminology is a bit inaccurate. The tensioner you want you can get on rockauto.com. Look up your application, click 'engine' drop down and then find timing belt tensioner. There are several listed you want the one that says "GATES Part # T43095 {No Pulley Attached}"

this is the piece that i bought...
http://img.thepartsbin.com/live/thumb/A533062258NTN.JPG
I want to buy like everything else at one time (tensioner, idler, belt, water pump) like in this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...5%3A3%7C39%3A1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...5%3A3%7C39%3A1)
http://i21.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d9/70/c68a_2.JPG
...looks like a popular water pump, only thing that scares me is what they say about the belt...."Timing belt (Sources: Conti-Tech, Bando, Goodyear, CADNA, etc.)"

if i buy all these parts individually it's gonna cost me a mint to make this ricer quit clacking....also, ok to drive for a month or so this way or is this a bad call?

Thanks

ha...i'm sure my terminology is off...i'm used to amc/jeep crap (oddly, i haven't found a singe reverse-torx bolt on this thing yet though i haven'et looked thoroughly...lol)
Its the same this as what i bought yesteday at thepartsbin...
http://img.thepartsbin.com/live/thumb/A533062258NTN.JPG

I really want to buy this kit from ebay that has everything else..But am a bit concerned about the belt source "Sources: Conti-Tech, Bando, Goodyear, CADNA, etc..."
http://i21.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d9/70/c68a_2.JPG


Would you trust the quality of this kit? Has anyone here ever used it?

Also, i will not be fit to do this stuff myself for probaby 6-8 weeks..i will not be driving for the next 3 weeks...will it be ok for me to drive my new ride 4 or 5 weeks with this clacking or would i be better to pay somone and get it done before driving (dayum, nobody touches my stuff $*&%!)

Thanks in advance

The body on that Rodeo is in great condition!

Is it a southern car?

About your question to drive it as-is or not......how badly dry-rotted was that belt?
Do you smell anti-freeze in the vehicle or under the hood.....that combined with the tensioner problem suggests that perhaps it should be driven only for short distances. Looks like you have other rides in the stable - park it until you have the parts.

Good luck - again that Rodeo is looking great for it's age and location.

There is no spring tensioner. The hydraulic piston is the only thing that keeps the belt tight.

'Hydraulic Tensioner' is a bit of a misnomer. This thing has a spring in it. The hydraulic part as I understand it is an oil through orifice shock absorber arrangement that stops the piston bouncing around. That's why when you re-compress them you have to do it slowly or you blow the seals out.

http://img.thepartsbin.com/live/thumb/A533062258NTN.JPG

I could be totally incorrect as I've never had one apart.

'99

The body on that Rodeo is in great condition!

Is it a southern car?

About your question to drive it as-is or not......how badly dry-rotted was that belt?
Do you smell anti-freeze in the vehicle or under the hood.....that combined with the tensioner problem suggests that perhaps it should be driven only for short distances. Looks like you have other rides in the stable - park it until you have the parts.

Good luck - again that Rodeo is looking great for it's age and location.
i was told by the po (he had it for 2 michigan which is like 27 dog years) that the car was from fla.
the belt didn't really look dry rotted, just loose and a little cracked (keep in mind i had just the left top cover off).
i smell antifreeze when i turn the ac on... not sure if it's the heater core or what...the only drop of anything that this thing leaks is ps fluid. with my back in the condition that its in i haven't been able to crawl under it to see if all the hoses are tight or what.
All the parts are on order and should be here in a few days (i already have the hydraulic spring tensioner) and then we'll see.
As far as rust, i will por the frame..have a few spots of surface rust (in rear door jams, not holes, just a little rust at the seam)...i will have to do someting with it also...i hope this thing runs up to the 240k i got on my ranger.
Thanks for all of your input/advise

John

Cat Fuzz and others...Quick question(s)
The timing belt tensioner bolt (for my SOHC) should be 168 inch pounds...i think that's about 14 or 15 ft pounds...what happens if it's over tight? Also, how tight should the bolt for the idler pulley be? I am sure it should be more than 168 inch pounds but can't (or haven't) find it in my HAYNES.

After tearing mine all apart (belt was bad anyway, i guess it was due) i found that the tensioner bolt was pretty stinking tight...i think that being too tight may have been part of the problem...not letting the tensioner float? Just a thought.
Anyway, am in process of putting all new stuff in...will be using some locktite as 15 foot pounds seems really light.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Overtightening the bolts risks breaking the bolt or stripping out the soft aluminum threads. Usually, if you just get them tight without going overboard, you should be good. The bolts came out hard because of being there for years and years.

Overtightening the bolts risks breaking the bolt or stripping out the soft aluminum threads. Usually, if you just get them tight without going overboard, you should be good. The bolts came out hard because of being there for years and years.
gotcha, but would you think that the 14-15 ft lbs is enuff for the tensioner? I have been playing around a bit and found that if it's tighter the tensioner doesn't pivot very easily..]
either way, i will definately use locktite.
Thanks Fuzz

I'd go with the published spec.

Cat Fuzz and the rest of the lot of you....
Thanks a bunch for your input. I am now the proud owner of non-diesel sounding rodeo...
Not much fun for a guy with a screwed up back, but it was so bad i was afraid to drive it (and it wasn't gonna fix itself).
I really could have fixed it on the cheap with just a belt and the $70 tensioner http://img.thepartsbin.com/live/thumb/A533062258NTN.JPGbut am glad that i went through the entire works (w-pump, pivoting tensioner, idler).



So, here's what i have invested in my 102k mile rodeo.....

initial purchase $2250
tires/rims combo on CL $250
sold old tires/rims combo on CL -$100
tensioner $73
t-belt kit with pivoting tensioner, idler, w-pump, belt $120
upper/lower rad hoses $27
t-stat/gasket $15
dura last belts $35
spark plugs as op had motorcraft plugs in it??(wires looked good) $12
R134 charge kit (with hose/valve and gage) $25
I also had a friend fab a dog-containment system to keep my hounds in the cargo area and out of the passenger compartment:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/100_2368.jpg

Grand total...$2707 (and a 6-pack for the dog container)i'm not sure that it's really all that much of a bargain and i didn't even really trade up to a newer year, but this SOB is comfy, quiet, smooth and i feel like i am in control (vs my old truck)


I sold my old '94 blue bomber with 241k miles on it (i bought it with 70k on it in '00 and drove every mile like i stole it)....i had it on CL for $600 and a really nice fella who needed an A-B car needed it badly, he said he'd pay the $600, i told him to take it for $550..he was happy and i was glad to get rid of it). So, really i'm only into it for $2157.
Here's the old bomber
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/truckfrunt.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/truckback.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/truckdrive.jpg http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/rodeo/Copyoftruckpass.jpg

Anyway, thank you all for sharing your experiences with all of us on this forum (i have spent nearly every waking moment reading this forum since my the purchase of my new steed).
Safe travels.....

John

Nice work! Must be great to hear it purring like it should.

p.s. - If I was a dog, and frustrated to be confined to the rear of the truck I'd chew those headrests like they were bacon-flavored pig's ears! :)

Awesome! Glad you got rid of your F%#D. I very much dislike them. They're overly complicated and put together weird. If you get any sort of snow where you live, you will be amazed at how well your Rodeo will push right through it. We accumulated 5 feet, yes, 5 feet of snow within a 10 day period last winter and my 94 Rodeo didn't even come close to having a problem with it. No studs, no special tires.

Nice work! Must be great to hear it purring like it should.

p.s. - If I was a dog, and frustrated to be confined to the rear of the truck I'd chew those headrests like they were bacon-flavored pig's ears! :)

lol....right now they would taste like go-jo...naw, they calm down after about 10 minutes in the car, but this will stop them from jumping through between the head-rests and landing in kids' laps...we'll see if they survive :icon16:

As far as rust, i will por the frame..have a few spots of surface rust (in rear door jams, not holes, just a little rust at the seam)...

John

Good idea. I use POR-15 on all kinds of stuff. Have used Eastwood also, but kind of like the POR better. Don't ask me why, all I can say is that the tougher it is to remove from your skin, the better it must stay on the work piece and that stuff is hardest to remove and will find it's way through a pair of disposable rubber gloves. I also buy the multi-pack of smaller cans of the stuff. It's more expensive that way, but will last longer due to not having to throw away partial cans that have been exposed to air over time.

I wonder if I coat my cat with it, he won't get any more ticks. Hmmm, 101 uses for impervious paint.

Good luck with that Rodeo - I'm quite envious now. :)

Awesome! Glad you got rid of your F%#D. I very much dislike them. They're overly complicated and put together weird. If you get any sort of snow where you live, you will be amazed at how well your Rodeo will push right through it. We accumulated 5 feet, yes, 5 feet of snow within a 10 day period last winter and my 94 Rodeo didn't even come close to having a problem with it. No studs, no special tires.
HA! Fuzz, i can honestly tell you my F%#D (pre-95) was the car i have owned the longest in my 40 years....had 3.0L 5-speed...only option was AC and it quit working in '04. I put 161k miles on top of the 70k that the po had on it...i neglected it horribly .. i do not know how it ran for so long. in 9 yrs i replaced 1 clutch, 1 starter, 1 water pump, 1 radiator, and 2 sets of tires. It needed upper/lower ball joints, tie-rod, tie-rod ends, new coils up front and new leafs in rear. I drove it basically for 9 years and did absolutely nothing other than changing oil/filter every 3k...the last year i owned it i was just adding oil...it wouldn't die.

I live in detroit, we get several feet of snow a year...i drive 75 miles round trip from work and i can tell you that even with weight in the back, the F%#D with 1-wheel-peel can be a bit squirrely...i am 100% sure that my new girl will go much better in the snow...but i will tell you, this Rodeo has very big shoes to fill.....

Thanks again ALL!

Good idea. I use POR-15 on all kinds of stuff. Have used Eastwood also, but kind of like the POR better. Don't ask me why, all I can say is that the tougher it is to remove from your skin, the better it must stay on the work piece and that stuff is hardest to remove and will find it's way through a pair of disposable rubber gloves. I also buy the multi-pack of smaller cans of the stuff. It's more expensive that way, but will last longer due to not having to throw away partial cans that have been exposed to air over time.

I wonder if I coat my cat with it, he won't get any more ticks. Hmmm, 101 uses for impervious paint.

Good luck with that Rodeo - I'm quite envious now. :)

I don't know how i am going to get it in the frame rails...either spray or drag a rag...we'll see. I will most certainly drill a hole in each door, tailgate, and hood and spray oil inside (an old trick my pop always did starting with his '50 ford flathead and still does today...every april may he re-spray's his '05 honda mini van like it's gonna rust...just park it in gravel and don't roll your windows down for a month :biggrin:). Yeah, POR a bit hard to get off skin, but my hands are never clean anyway.....
Oh, and as far as kats, i can only think of one good use for one - turtle bait (sry if yer a cat lover).....lol

I really could have fixed it on the cheap with just a belt and the $70 tensioner http://img.thepartsbin.com/live/thumb/A533062258NTN.JPGbut am glad that i went through the entire works (w-pump, pivoting tensioner, idler).


You'll be happy in the long run that you changed out these items. I made the mistake of replacing the timing belt and tensioner without installing a new water pump. I wanted to save money, but about a year later, the pump started leaking on me. Even though the job was easier the second time around, I should have done the whole thing the first time around. Live and learn.


Dale

You'll be happy in the long run that you changed out these items. I made the mistake of replacing the timing belt and tensioner without installing a new water pump. I wanted to save money, but about a year later, the pump started leaking on me. Even though the job was easier the second time around, I should have done the whole thing the first time around. Live and learn.


Dale

Yes, that was pretty much my thoughts on it Dale...i don't want to go back in for another 100k....