Loose Wheel Hub?

Hey Guys,

So I had the Prix in the shop for some maint. and they told me that my driver's side (I think it was anyway) wheel hub was "loose," and needed to be replaced soon. It's probably just because I'm not the most experienced or familiar, but how does a hub get "loose?" Also, aren't those way expensive on our cars?

Overtime as parts wear out, they get loose. If you done have any noise and the ABS system works fine, jack up that side and do the 9 and 3 and 12 and 6 wiggle test. If you dont feel looseness, your probably fine driving on it for now.

They arent any more expensive than on other cars. I bought a replacement for about 100.00. BCA national brand at Oreilley's. GM replacement ones are the way to go because they included new hub bolts and a new axel nut.

FYI, I had a somewhat loose hub from 40 k miles, and I just replaced it a few weeks ago at 130k miles. It may have even had the extra free-play very early on. I just kept monitoring it, and it really never got any worse. The reason why I replace it, was because I didn't want some idiot mechanic to fail my New York State inspection because of it. For the past 3 or 4 years, they kinda warned me, but let me slide.
Also, there's a procedure to replace it in this forum, and the 3 hub bolts can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove. It was a pain in the butt job for me. Make sure you soak them with some lube for a while, first.

Interesting. I've been going to this mechanic for the past 10 years, so I'm not totally worried about them trying to screw me, but I was just curious. He did say I'd be ok for now, but that it's definitely something to keep my eye on.

If it were to get bad, would I notice any specific symptoms, or would my wheel just fall off out of nowhere on the freeway one day? :lol2:

Yeah it would sound like a turbojet engine when you turned one direction and when you turned the other would go away (almost completly). Or else your ABS and trac off lights will light.

Ha, ha, ha, well that's good to know. I had a friend who had a little Lancer a few years back and we were driving along and I looked at her and asked why it sounded like we were inside of a locomotive. She said it had been driving her crazy and she didn't know what it was. Trying to sound smarter than I am/was, I told her I bet that her wheel bearings were out. A day later after she got it back from the shop, she said I was right and always came to me for automotive advice after that. :loser: (not her, me) :rofl:

On our cars, the hub and bearings are all one piece right?

On our cars, the hub and bearings are all one piece right?

correct.

To elaborate: My hub/bearing just had some extra free-play, when you do the 12 & 6 O'clock shake test. It wasn't a lot, but the other wheel had no free-play. And when the old hub was off the car, it was even harder to feel the free-play, probably because you don't have the lever-arm advantage of gripping the outer diameter of the wheel/tire. I just didn't want to take the chance with this ridiculous New York State inspection; some things I really hate about this state.

So it's been a little while now and the driver's side hub has about a 1/4" of play in it. Time for a replace? Could this contribute to wheel studs breaking? I've never had a wheel stud break until I got this car.

So it's been a little while now and the driver's side hub has about a 1/4" of play in it. Time for a replace? Could this contribute to wheel studs breaking? I've never had a wheel stud break until I got this car.

Do you have any wheel shimmy while driving? Most people or mechanics do not test for wheel bearing slop properly. :shakehead How many miles do you have?

It takes BFFI to break or snap off the wheels studs. If you use the proper tools like a torque wrench then you should have no problems. 100 lb-ft is all it takes for proper torque.

I recently replaced the drivers side hub in my GTP because my son broke two of the wheel studs off. He works out too much and bench presses well over 300 lbs. Classic example of a BFFI. :lol:

When I gripped my wheel at 12 & 6 O'clock and shook it, I was able to get approx 1/4" play. I drove on that bearing for a few years, and it never got any worse. But, I checked it every time I did an oil change. If there's no grinding noise/feeling, you may be able to wait a little while (especially if it's not getting worse), but eventually you should just "bite the bullet" and change it out. That's my opinion.

Do you have any wheel shimmy while driving? Most people or mechanics do not test for wheel bearing slop properly. :shakehead How many miles do you have?

Hey Bob! I do feel a little more vibration that usual when I'm on the freeway. The shop said that with the bearing how it is, it makes it difficult to do a perfect alignment. They also said that as it is now, it technically wouldn't pass safety inspection, although I don't think they'd fail me (moot point as I got it done (and passed) a month ago). What is the proper way to check "slop?" Right now I've got 129K miles on the ol' girl.

With over 100K miles it is not uncommon for the wheel bearings to get free play so what the mechanic is telling you is probably true. The proper test is to safely jack it up, remove the wheel, put wheel nuts over the rotor to keep it secure on the hub, pull on the rotor at 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 positions but using a dial gauge and comparing the runout/slop to the service manual specs.

Now as to mechanics being truthful or knowing what they are saying or doing. Back to my GTP. I took it to a local Firestone shop for a 4 point wheel alignment. It all came out within specs. But on the inspection sheet the mechanic stated the left wheel brearing/hub felt sloppy. :screwy: I almost broke out in laughter. That was the hub I just replaced and used the proper torque figures for the axle nut on top of that. I asked the mechanic if he noticed the hub was brand new (AC Delco) and he stated no. He didn't know what to say. Oh well so much for that. :lol:

Bob, maybe the dummy didn't realize the left side is the driver side.

Bob, maybe the dummy didn't realize the left side is the driver side.

Same guy that did the wheel alignment. Does that means my alignment specs are all backwards? :lol:

He knew. He was just trying to make some extra money for the shop. Plus the right hub was replaced a few years ago and only has about 800 miles on it.

Yeah, after I swapped out my struts, I brought my car in to tires plus for an alignment and I left. A half hour or so later the alignment guy called and said I need a camber kit on the front. I said, "ok, what is that going to cost". He told me 80.00. (thinking thats ok) but I asked him "that would be an 80.00, on top of the initial alignment charge", and he goes. "No, thats 80.00 for the camber kit, 80.00 for the alignment, and another 130.00 for installation of the camber kit, so close to 300 all installed.". After hearing that I told him to not touch my car and I would be there in a few minutes. Well, I got there, and if I remember correctly, the camber spec for the front is +1.0 to +1.6. Well my passenger side was +1.6, and my drivers side was +1.7. Even though its barely out of spec, it shows RED on the machine. I told him to align the toe as best he can and leave it at that. There is no way I was going to pay them 300 to install a camber kit and align it.

On top of all that when I got my car, the steering wheel was off, so I took it back in for them to adjust again. And its pretty close right now, but not 100% straight. I just got sick of dealing with them. Then the worst was a week later I checked my tire pressures and the left front tire was down to 20psi. (which probably threw the camber readings out of spec) since tires plus did not fill up my tires before the alignment.

I'm done going back there, they are a bunch of idiots! Not to mention I think they put my wheels on with an impact last time I had them rotate my tires and warped my rotors.

$130 just to install the shims, is it that hard to install.

Wow. What a place. I always wonder how places like that stay in business. You can only go so long depending on new customers who haven't heard about your reputation for so long.

:bricks1:

It is easy when you take advantage of women that are not car literate. Nothing against women, but these dishonest shops do it all the time. The thing that gets me is that they do it with a clear conscience, and continue to do it also.

. A half hour or so later the alignment guy called and said I need a camber kit on the front. I said, "ok, what is that going to cost". He told me 80.00. (thinking thats ok) but I asked him "that would be an 80.00, on top of the initial alignment charge", and he goes. "No, thats 80.00 for the camber kit, 80.00 for the alignment, and another 130.00 for installation of the camber kit, so close to 300 all installed.

:screwy:

What camber kit were they planning on installing Tim? I did my GTP several years ago and it was around $20 per strut for the camber kit with the eccentric bolt. Then all you need to do is remove the strut and file - elongate the two mounting holes that go to the steering knuckle.

Thats what I was wondering Bob. There was no way I was going to pay 80.00 for just the front camber bolts, and then pay to have them installed, and then pay to have them align. If you ask me, alignment should be covered under the install price. Its sort of like a rack and pinion, if I pay to have a shop put one in, the flat rate price reflects install and also an alignment. You don't add the alignment to the cost of the R&P install. Every idiot knows that!

After I told him I didn't want the camber bolts put in, he told me my car would pull. I said I'll deal with it. Guess what? No pulls (idiot!)

I'd rather install the bolts myself and then take it to a shop and have aligned afterwards.

I have a 2004 Grand Prix with 145k miles. I hear a grinding noise at low speeds going straight and then louder on turns. However, I cannot hear any abnormal noise at higher speeds. With the car on the ground I can feel some slop in the left wheel when I push/pull on the top. However, when I jack it up and set on stands, I cannot feel any slop by doing the 9 & 3 and 12 & 6 check. I removed the wheel and put vice grips on the hub and couldn't feel any play either, only when there is the weight of the car on the wheel can I feel any slop. I know that the right side hub was replaced at 75k but the left side is original. I also checked the ball joint and I couldn't find any play. Everything else is fairly new (struts, tie rod ends). I brought it into the shop and they said that it was the tire bead rubbing on the rim...not sure how that is even possible. Stupid shops.

I checked all of the other wheels and they are tight.

Anyway, I'm looking for some help. Any ideas?