na engine

alright guys, this is just something that i wanted to get a second opinion on. ive been researching stroker kits, different pistons and rods, and i have a couple of questions.

keep in mind, im staying NA, and its a 2nd gen. (forged crank)

how hard is the 6g74 conversion and is it worth the trouble? cause to me it sure looks like its worth the money. and whats the difference in hp?? and torque?

if i go stroker with my stock 72, whats the best way to go? (best bore, its a daily driver but i wanna have a bit more power)

also if i stay 72, will stock heads be suffeciant with a bigger stroke/bore?? or will better cams be in order?

ips built shortblock??


i would like to do the 74 swap, but my engine is cleaaaan, like literally, i have 200k miles, and when i took the heads off there was literally NO wear, stratches, in the chambers, and the pistons looks untoched. of course i can keep my old engine tho. what do yall think???

i would suggest a bigger cam so that you can get more valve open time on the intake and exhaust that way you're getting more air and fuel into the bore, which means bigger boom, which of course means more hp.

another thought to chew on, if you just make it a bigger bore, but kept the same stoke, you'd lower you're compression allowing a s/c. raising the stroke you'd likily need a new head though, but the reason above would solidify that

s/c? sry not following.

r there any good rods that keep the same stroke?

s/c= SuperCharge

3sx i think makes performance rods that keep the same stroke, you'd have to ask stealthee, but aren't the stock rods forged also or are those aluminum?

i no the crank is forged...i thiiink thheeee stoock roods r caaast.hmmmmmm.....wheres steathee when ya need him. but regardless i might as well change em all. how much (more or less) would a machine shop charge to bore em out??? and how much should i bore it to?


sry bout the 99 questions

the 99 questions isn't an issue, you're getting the info before doing it.

the machine shop, all of em vary, i can get my 944 motor done for 700 but i know the owner and it's only a 4.

as for how big to go, there's a limit until the cylinder wall is too thin and it would become very unreliable. also remember as you bore the bores the piston head will have to become bigger to fit inside the bigger bore, you therefore might be limited to what available, unless you wanna have a shop build you something custom, then you're talking some big bucks. my biggest suggestion find a performance shop, like a race performance shop in your area, they'll likely have their own machine shop along with the ability to make what you need for the internals of the motor.

and stealthee is likely asleep it's 2am by us

ok ill talk with them, i wanna stay na all motor, so i wanna stay get higher compression. ima have to to get a longer stroke right??

you could do a longer stroke, or same stroke with a bigger bore and larger intake/exhaust valves with a longer open duration on each allowing more air/fule into the cylinder. a longer stroke though could cause issues with the valves making out with the piston. so if you got a new head which allowed for more clearence between the vlaves and the piston then you'd get more power while keeping the motor safe.

best thing, bore it, see where you're at, it's a process, especially for daily driving the car, racers don't care if the motor last a few runs, you gotta get your power but be reliable

ok cool man, that what ill do. i post again if i run into any other issues. do u no anything about the 6g74 engine?

not really, the code looks familiar for some reason, evo or something. motor's i know, anything porsche, and 3/s

its supposed to be the same engine....3.4 tho. jspec. theres a group buy on 3si right now

make sure you get the 3.5L from the debonaire, then it's nearly a direct bolt on... save for a few accessories that need to be swapped around, and one motor mount.

There's a group buy going on for the 3.5L for $960 if you're interested in getting in on it. I believe the next shipment of the 3.5L comes in about 2 months.

I don't know what kind of budget you're working with, but if money isn't really an issue, I'd do an overbored 3.5L, with some cams, ported heads, etc.

As for someone mentioning a supercharger... they're not really cost effective with these cars. The kits are VERY expensive for the power you're going to make. Twin Turbo is much easier.

You can even just throw some stock 9b vr4 turbos on your car (with all of the necessary supporting parts), and you'll be making VR-4 power without the awd drivetrain loss.

yea im really interested in that. but i read that u have to cut into the oil pan and reshape it to fin over the crossmember, the dipsticks on the wrong side of the engine, i dunno if i can use my tranny, and that ull have tomodify the engine bay to fin the accessories???

money is kinda an issue...i have a gf, LOL. no but really we r planning a trip to new mexico at the end of the month. i was actually considering saving up a bit and getting a new, built block for ips, the stage 1. but i still got questions on that. im sure i can call and ask them but i dunno if the same crank can be used, plus they say tt block, but im sure they can drop in some na compression pistons.

whats a good compression ration for an na with a lil more balls?? 10:1?? 12:1??

you may already know all of this, but here is a super good write up on the 6g74 swap.

check it (http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/6G74swap.html)

yea i no i looked through that. but it looks likea a big hassle. anyways im leaning toward the ips built block. whats a good compreesion ratio for sa strong na?
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yea im really interested in that. but i read that u have to cut into the oil pan and reshape it to fin over the crossmember, the dipsticks on the wrong side of the engine, i dunno if i can use my tranny, and that ull have tomodify the engine bay to fin the accessories???

money is kinda an issue...i have a gf, LOL. no but really we r planning a trip to new mexico at the end of the month. i was actually considering saving up a bit and getting a new, built block for ips, the stage 1. but i still got questions on that. im sure i can call and ask them but i dunno if the same crank can be used, plus they say tt block, but im sure they can drop in some na compression pistons.

whats a good compression ration for an na with a lil more balls?? 10:1?? 12:1??

That's with using the incorrect 3.5L block.

I don't believe the stage 1 engines are built?

What are your goals for the car? What are you looking to get out of it? built internals are a waste of money if you're not going to be using power adders (turbo, supercharger, a shit load of nitrous on a relatively regular basis).

For all the work, just get a stock twin turbo conversion set-up, and put them on your n/a engine (it sounds like your current engine is just fine?)

yea well its a daily driver, i dont wanna track car, but i do race it from time to time. i dont wanna go tt on it, i like is na, i just wanna get more power out of it, and keep the reliabily. in a few years im gonna be giving it to my lil bro. he doesnt no yet :) really. i just want about 300 to 320 hp to the wheel, na, and mayybe a shot o nos. but i would prefer it all motor. thats y i wanna go with a slightly bigger bore, but same stroke to keep reliabity. and prolly steet weld cams, long tube header, gears pully, bam! i say 300 hp right??? i can usethe same block i guess, but if i do ima get the water/coolant lines bored a bit to, like the ips block.
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yea well its a daily driver, i dont wanna track car, but i do race it from time to time. i dont wanna go tt on it, i like is na, i just wanna get more power out of it, and keep the reliabily. in a few years im gonna be giving it to my lil bro. he doesnt no yet :) really. i just want about 300 to 320 hp to the wheel, na, and mayybe a shot o nos. but i would prefer it all motor. thats y i wanna go with a slightly bigger bore, but same stroke to keep reliabity. and prolly steet weld cams, long tube header, gears pully, bam! i say 300 hp right??? i can usethe same block i guess, but if i do ima get the water/coolant lines bored a bit to, like the ips block.
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You won't get anywhere near 300'ish at the wheels in N/A form, not by any stretch of the imagination with under at LEAST 10k to blow (just in hard parts, no labor)... and at that point, you could have done a complete evo3 16g twin turbo conversion with a VR-4 engine. You do realize your car makes 160-180'ish at the wheels... stock? you're looking to nearly double that with just some quick power adders for cheap? It's just not possible, not for the money you want to spend. The fastest N/A currently makes around that power if I'm not mistaken, and his car is nowhere NEAR street driveable. It is a track-only car, and he runs nitrous.

Either keep it N/A, toss on a set of headers, exhaust, intake, lightweight flywheel, heavier duty clutch, and call it a day at 200'ish whp, or sell it and get a VR-4... which, for the power you want, is at least $5k cheaper at the end of the day.

You won't get anywhere near 300'ish at the wheels in N/A form, not by any stretch of the imagination with under at LEAST 10k to blow (just in hard parts, no labor)... and at that point, you could have done a complete evo3 16g twin turbo conversion with a VR-4 engine. You do realize your car makes 160-180'ish at the wheels... stock? you're looking to nearly double that with just some quick power adders for cheap? It's just not possible, not for the money you want to spend. The fastest N/A currently makes around that power if I'm not mistaken, and his car is nowhere NEAR street driveable. It is a track-only car, and he runs nitrous.

Either keep it N/A, toss on a set of headers, exhaust, intake, lightweight flywheel, heavier duty clutch, and call it a day at 200'ish whp, or sell it and get a VR-4... which, for the power you want, is at least $5k cheaper at the end of the day.
This. You wont come anywhere near 300 whp NA form. Some modded 3.5 (6g74) NA's are making 220 whp and arent going to touch 250 whp in NA form, let alone 300 whp.